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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone got any tips n removing lower front suspension arm on a 2009 matiz i cant get the bolt out of the arm thats fixed to the chassis of thr car.. i have removed drive shaft and brake caliper bracket and two bolts holding drive knuckle to front strut, also removed the anti roll bar bolt to suspension arm and removed the ball joint to knuckle bolt... i am left with only one long 14mm head bolt that passes through the bush in the arm on through to a captive nut the other side i can olny get a 1.4 turn on it and that seems to flex the bush on the joint i have got it most of the way out but it wont budge any ideas...??? tried warming it up with heat gun seems to get it oving sprayed penetratin oil on it i dont want to grind the arm off as afrtaid i wont be able to get it off...
 

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Be extremely careful! What happens is that the bolt corrodes onto the sleeve of the bush, and in turning it you damage the threads on the captive nut due to the sleeve being trapped in the subframe, barely half a turn will destroy the captive nut. My Aveo is currently off the road for this very reason, although the lower arm was cut off, and "chopped" with a die grinder to remove the sleeve, sadly, the damage was already done to the captive nut, and it was beyond rethreading in situ. It is possible to replace the entire subframe on the Aveo, not sure about the Matiz. Before I replace the entire bed/subframe, I will cut a hole in the existing one, and attempt to replace the captive nut, and then weld the hole up. The bed/subframe is not ridiculously expensive, but the amount of work is prohibitive especially as on the Aveo, it is mounted to the bodyshell with 9 heavily threadlocked bolts.
 

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View attachment 2216

the bottom right on picture shown...
Hi hsju. The problem causing your upset is corrosion between track control arm fixing bolt and the metal inner sleeve of the inboard rubber bush. As you know the bolt will not unscrew and this is not due to any problems with the welded captive nut. A possible solution is to drill the arm in the middle area of the bush until you penetrate the fixing bolt. Penetrating oil can then be introduced to overcome the corrosion friction.
The drilling is best accomplished using a 6mm dia. HSS cobalt coated bit. Drilling the steel arm is easy as is the rubber bush. The greatest problem is cutting into the inner sleeve which is almost as tough as a hacksaw blade. In view of this have several bits to hand. Good luck.
 

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Hi Metro 1000 and hsju. Just a couple of comments concerning this upset. The suspension mounting on Matiz 200 is welded as part of the body shell and not a component that can be replaced with subframe renewal.
Metro 1000 do you think the damaged thread on your Aveo can be repaired using Helicoil kit as an alternative to welding. Is there any chance space allows for this to be done in situ?
 

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Jasta, sadly, a helicoil repair is not possible in my case because it isn't possible to drill out for the oversize coil tap without enlarging the hole where the cap of the bolt sits, whilst it would be technically possible to have an insert machined to get over this, it's beyond my "in house" ability, and I am also very dubious of the condition of the captive nut. I have obtained some longer 10.9 bolts, and replacement nuts, and my current plan is to holesaw cut a window into the box section of the subframe to allow the fitting of a new nut behind the captive nut, and then weld up the window. I have done this once before on another car (MGF) some years ago. If all else fails, then a new subframe is £145, however having worked on this car for years, I know that Daewoo put threadlock on pretty much every bolt and screw in these cars, even down to the dashboard screws, which makes me very concerned about undoing the 9 subframe to body bolts successfully. When I had the cylinder head off last year, even the 6mm bolts holding the water pump on were coated with threadlock leading to some very tricky drill outs and rethreads.
It's off the road because as well as a new lower wishbone, it also needed 2 new trackrod ends, a coil spring, and both rear wheel cylinders were seized. Most of the work is done now, but cold weather and other commitments have seen it be neglected for a few weeks, none of it is due to poor quality, it's just down to age, and the fact that the car leads a very active life!
Another consequence is that my younger daughter turned 17 last week, and the Aveo is not available for driving practice. She tried out both the 508 and 407SW on private roads, and has chosen the 407 to learn in as the 508 has stop/start, EPB and hill hold, all of which can be very difficult for a novice driver. So now she is learning to drive in a 170/205 (on overboost)HP car with a huge front overhang and a towball hanging out the back. Should make the MG3 her mother has bought her seem easy....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi, i got someone willing todo the arm for me as i havenet got the equipmnet to do it buthe says he needs the bolt that goes through the arm as he will have to cut it off does anyone know the dimensions of that bolt and thread pitch and where i can get it thanks ?
 

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hi, i got someone willing todo the arm for me as i havenet got the equipmnet to do it buthe says he needs the bolt that goes through the arm as he will have to cut it off does anyone know the dimensions of that bolt and thread pitch and where i can get it thanks ?
Hi the dimensions for the bolt that secures the track control arm for either side of an M200 Matiz are as follows :-
1. Bolt diameter 10.0 mm.
2. Bolt length [underside of head to tip of thread] 82.0 mm.
3. Bolt thread length 18.0 mm.
4. Bolt thread pitch 1.25 mm.
5. Bolt head [across flats] 14 mm.
You will need to check for a supplier locally or via internet.
 

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Jasta, sadly, a helicoil repair is not possible in my case because it isn't possible to drill out for the oversize coil tap without enlarging the hole where the cap of the bolt sits, whilst it would be technically possible to have an insert machined to get over this, it's beyond my "in house" ability, and I am also very dubious of the condition of the captive nut. I have obtained some longer 10.9 bolts, and replacement nuts, and my current plan is to holesaw cut a window into the box section of the subframe to allow the fitting of a new nut behind the captive nut, and then weld up the window. I have done this once before on another car (MGF) some years ago. If all else fails, then a new subframe is £145, however having worked on this car for years, I know that Daewoo put threadlock on pretty much every bolt and screw in these cars, even down to the dashboard screws, which makes me very concerned about undoing the 9 subframe to body bolts successfully. When I had the cylinder head off last year, even the 6mm bolts holding the water pump on were coated with threadlock leading to some very tricky drill outs and rethreads.
It's off the road because as well as a new lower wishbone, it also needed 2 new trackrod ends, a coil spring, and both rear wheel cylinders were seized. Most of the work is done now, but cold weather and other commitments have seen it be neglected for a few weeks, none of it is due to poor quality, it's just down to age, and the fact that the car leads a very active life!
Another consequence is that my younger daughter turned 17 last week, and the Aveo is not available for driving practice. She tried out both the 508 and 407SW on private roads, and has chosen the 407 to learn in as the 508 has stop/start, EPB and hill hold, all of which can be very difficult for a novice driver. So now she is learning to drive in a 170/205 (on overboost)HP car with a huge front overhang and a towball hanging out the back. Should make the MG3 her mother has bought her seem easy....
Hi Metro 1000 sorry to hear about problems with the wishbone mounting. The warmer weather is around the corner for a repair solution.
hsju this post is not intended to intrude on your OP.
regards jasta.
 

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Hi the dimensions for the bolt that secures the track control arm for either side of an M200 Matiz are as follows :-
1. Bolt diameter 10.0 mm.
2. Bolt length [underside of head to tip of thread] 82.0 mm.
3. Bolt thread length 18.0 mm.
4. Bolt thread pitch 1.25 mm.
5. Bolt head [across flats] 14 mm.
You will need to check for a supplier locally or via internet.

(y)This reply is the absolute epitome of the technical heights some members will go to to help another ..... Well done Jasta
Instead of alphabet soup I bet you have bowl of nuts & bolts washed down with a glass of Castrol. And at night you sleep with a spanner under your pillow instead of a torch ! :D Top marks Buddy.
 
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