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2012 Captiva 2.2 diesel Auto
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I have a 2012 2.2 diesel Captiva with a engine issue. Problem is that engine oil is is making its way to the coolant and overflowing from the coolant expansion tank. Nil coolant present in the engine oil (Has been drained and refilled to make sure). Vehicle does not overheat and starts and runs as it should. I strongly suspect the oil cooler is to blame although cannot find were it is located in the engine bay. Where is it located and can it be replaced with the engine still in the vehicle.
 

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The oil cooler is an integrated part of the oil filter housing. It's located at the back of the engine and I don't think you can remove it to change the gaskets / seals in situ.

1655
 

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Cruzn, There is an existing post on this topic (found via the Forum Search function) so it may be useful to read the experience from that situation.
Link: Engine oil in coolant surge tank
Victors info indicates that this can only be accessed by 'engine out'. Do you have any Extended Warranty?

You didnt complete your Location in Sign-Up but the Forum System is identifying you as in Australia. If this is incorrect please complete the data.

As a new Forum Member the following link is helpful info.
Helpful Guidance Using the Forum (open link fully to read it all).
 
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Hi I have a 2012 2.2 diesel Captiva with a engine issue. Problem is that engine oil is is making its way to the coolant and overflowing from the coolant expansion tank. Nil coolant present in the engine oil (Has been drained and refilled to make sure). Vehicle does not overheat and starts and runs as it should. I strongly suspect the oil cooler is to blame although cannot find were it is located in the engine bay. Where is it located and can it be replaced with the engine still in the vehicle.
Hi cruzn, have you solve the problem yet? I have similar problem.
coolant drain already now in the process to change oil cooler.
any one have experience to replace it without pull out the engine
thanks in advance
 

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Si Ario, Member Victor has shown a photograph in post #2 ...... but that refers to a 2.2 engine. Your vehicle is a 2.0 engine so whether it is the same is unsure.
It would appear doubtful that a major component like this can be removed without engine removal.
Do note that member Cruzn has unfortunately fragmented this Topic by a further duplication this week under a slightly different Title caption. Ensure that you read all entries on this topic.
.
 

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Si Ario, Member Victor has shown a photograph in post #2 ...... but that refers to a 2.2 engine. Your vehicle is a 2.0 engine so whether it is the same is unsure.
It would appear doubtful that a major component like this can be removed without engine removal.
Do note that member Cruzn has unfortunately fragmented this Topic by a further duplication this week under a slightly different Title caption. Ensure that you read all entries on this topic.
.
able to pull out the parts......
here we need to do :
1. Remove front right wheel, wheel liner
2. Remove belt tensioner
3. Remove battery negative connector
4. Undo right steering linkage ball joint
5. Undo charging cable form alternator
6. Undo alternator sensor cable ( don't know the exact name ) there is 2 wire with black socket
7. Remove alternator
8. Remove 2 hoses from oil cooler
9. Remove oil cooler

will do the pressure test to make sure
 

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2012 Captiva 2.2 diesel Auto
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info. Yes I am located in Australia. No unfortunately I do not have extended warranty. I was able to remove the oil cooler only from the engine with oil filter housing and engine still in place through the opening for the alternator. It is held on by 5 or 6 T40 torx bolts (the top left bolt is ultra hard to get to so some custom fabrication/modification of tooling was required to clear the intake manifold). Once I removed the oil cooler I was able to pressure test it. Pressure test came back normal so I replaced just 2 oil cooler seals and refitted it to the vehicle. Problem is in my case it did not do any good as the problem still exists. Now I am thinking of removing the oil filter housing to replace the seals behind it.
 

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Cruzn, At least you have made some headway in pressure testing, so you are eliminating what it isnt !

Appreciate you confirming you are in Australia but please complete your Location in Your Sign -Up and give full vehicle info in your Signature Footer.

The reason for asking for this is that data given within the body of posts / conversations becomes 'lost' as the topic grows into subsequent pages.
A lot of readers will simply not bother to search back and back before they know the vehicle and its world market build. Not unreasonably many will take the view that if you cant bother to provide the info then they are not going to bother to search for it. It is a two way street to assist each other.
By completing your Location and vehicle speci correctly it will always appear automatically with every post you make and Forum readers can instantly see this data on any post or page.
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Thanks
 

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able to pull out the parts......
here we need to do :
1. Remove front right wheel, wheel liner
2. Remove belt tensioner
3. Remove battery negative connector
4. Undo right steering linkage ball joint
5. Undo charging cable form alternator
6. Undo alternator sensor cable ( don't know the exact name ) there is 2 wire with black socket
7. Remove alternator
8. Remove 2 hoses from oil cooler
9. Remove oil cooler

will do the pressure test to make sure
Weren't there one or two other components to remove that you forgot to mention?
1836
 

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From the description that you gave earlier, looks like it's just quoted from a Haynes manual or similar for the old 2 litre engine which is much simpler than the 2.2 litre engine. Your engine is the Z20D1 which is the same externally as the 2.2 litre engine.
1837


1838
 

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From the description that you gave earlier, looks like it's just quoted from a Haynes manual or similar for the old 2 litre engine which is much simpler than the 2.2 litre engine. Your engine is the Z20D1 which is the same externally as the 2.2 litre engine.
View attachment 1837

View attachment 1838
This is parts look like...it is more easy to remove complete set of oil filter housing rather than oil cooler it self.
Oil cooler find leak internally than due to it has 2 side seals...I decide to replace both

Art Gas Font Auto part Metal



Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Camera lens Automotive design
 

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Thanks for the info. Yes I am located in Australia. No unfortunately I do not have extended warranty. I was able to remove the oil cooler only from the engine with oil filter housing and engine still in place through the opening for the alternator. It is held on by 5 or 6 T40 torx bolts (the top left bolt is ultra hard to get to so some custom fabrication/modification of tooling was required to clear the intake manifold). Once I removed the oil cooler I was able to pressure test it. Pressure test came back normal so I replaced just 2 oil cooler seals and refitted it to the vehicle. Problem is in my case it did not do any good as the problem still exists. Now I am thinking of removing the oil filter housing to replace the seals behind it.
better replace all seals, and do coolant flush after
got trick from Caterpillar technician to clean oil sludge/film, remove thermostat and pour liquid dishwasher soap in cooling system....let it run to operating temp than wait till safe to touch and drain it.....repeat 3-4 times
will do this trick once ready
 

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2012 Captiva 2.2 diesel Auto
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for that. I removed the oil filter housing today with attached oil cooler to replace the seals at the back of the oil filter housing. Before replacing the seals I decided to pressure test on the two components together before refitting them. On this seconds test I used much higher air pressure then in the first test and it turns that my oil cooler is internally ruptured between the oil and coolant passages. I am not sure if it ruptured because of the high air pressures I was using during this second test or if was indeed faulty the first time around and I missed it. Either way I will need to buy a new oil cooler now.
 

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2012 Captiva 2.2 diesel Auto
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Si Ario the parts I removed to remove the oil filter housing were much the same for the 2.2 engine as your 2.0 engine. They were:

1. RH Front wheel

2. RH Engine Splash shield

3. Serpentine belt cover + belt.

4. Belt tensioner

5. RH Steering tie rod (disconnected at hub)

6. Alternator + associated wires

7. Earthing cable at engine

8. Front lower exhaust. (Probably not necessary but I did it for better access)

9. Screw on oil filter cover

10. Oil pressure sensor + oil pipe for turbo
 

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Si Ario the parts I removed to remove the oil filter housing were much the same for the 2.2 engine as your 2.0 engine. They were:

1. RH Front wheel

2. RH Engine Splash shield

3. Serpentine belt cover + belt.

4. Belt tensioner

5. RH Steering tie rod (disconnected at hub)

6. Alternator + associated wires

7. Earthing cable at engine

8. Front lower exhaust. (Probably not necessary but I did it for better access)

9. Screw on oil filter cover

10. Oil pressure sensor + oil pipe for turbo
Coolant flushing till crystal clear will take time...let share your trick
 

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Si Ario the parts I removed to remove the oil filter housing were much the same for the 2.2 engine as your 2.0 engine. They were:

1. RH Front wheel

2. RH Engine Splash shield

3. Serpentine belt cover + belt.

4. Belt tensioner

5. RH Steering tie rod (disconnected at hub)

6. Alternator + associated wires

7. Earthing cable at engine

8. Front lower exhaust. (Probably not necessary but I did it for better access)

9. Screw on oil filter cover

10. Oil pressure sensor + oil pipe for turbo
Hi Cruzn,
Hey mate just wanting to know how you got on with your issue of oil in the coolant, i have read your posts and just wondering if you fixed the problem or was it something totally different,
Lurchy
 

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Lurchy, I've typed 'cruzn' into the Forum member search and this name no longer auto completes so there is a possibility he has moved on.
That said, reading his posts #14 & 15 it appeared that he found the cause and described the fix procedure.
.
 
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