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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. This is my first time in the forum. My mother has a 5door 2012 Chevrolet Spark with central locking issues. In her words, “it began first by behaving a bit erratically and then one day just stopped”.
I’m not a mechanic but eager to save her some money.

I’ve trawled various other posts and fixes and have tried quite a few of them. I’ve got down to the point of replacing the solenoid. In the process of doing this I’ve discovered that if I leave the driver door solenoid unconnected, the rest of the doors including the boot will operate perfectly. So this is how I left it, she can still manually lock and unlock the drivers door which she was having to do anyway.
I also discovered (all doors in lock position) when replacing the top connector of the two(doesn’t matter which order I do it in) that all doors open as soon as I push the connector in. When all doors are in the open position nothing happens, they just remain open.
It’s at this point I find myself having to join the forum and post my issue as I have no idea what to do next. I assume it’s a wiring issue but don’t know? where do the wires go to inside the car? Am I missing something simple?
Any light shed on this would be a great help.
Thanks in advance.
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In the interests of thoroughness I’ve given a fuller description of the issue and fixes I’ve tried below.

Problem: Pressing the unlock button on the key wouldn’t open the doors when they are locked. All doors including the boot would open and then close immediately. This has now changed to all doors except the driver door(which does nothing). Before, I could hear the unlock(clunk) noise in all the doors but again noin the driver door. All the door buttons(except drivers door) go up then immediately down. The driver door button does nothing now and there is no noise from the door.

I have tried:
Replaced the fob battery. (No joy)
Fuses. (All look fine)
Disconnecting the battery. (No luck)
Key fob reset(which consisted of switching the key to ‘on’ for ten minutes then off, 3 consecutive times)
Then I decided to dismantle the door and replace the solenoid. At which I refer you back to the top of my post! 😃
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi Victor

Thank you for your reply.
I’m not sure exactly what you mean. I’m not well versed in terminology.
Is this the wiring that comes from inside the car then out through the door? Or the wiring solely inside the door? Where is the A pillar?
Is be very grateful if you can give me any more details i.e. where the connection starts or ends, what the wire does?( as I mentioned in my previous post it seems to be only one of the connectors causing the issue) or anything you think might be useful to a novice?
Thanks again in advance to anyone who can help.
 

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Hi Victor

Thank you for your reply.
I’m not sure exactly what you mean. I’m not well versed in terminology.
Is this the wiring that comes from inside the car then out through the door? Or the wiring solely inside the door? Where is the A frame?
Is be very grateful if you can give me any more details i.e. where the connection starts or ends, what the wire does?( as I mentioned in my previous post it seems to be only one of the connectors causing the issue) or anything you think might be useful to a novice? Thanks again in advance to anyone who can help
Yes, that's correct. As to where the A frame is why don't you google it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Victor

Thanks again for your reply. I have not intended anything to be confrontational, just trying to be clear and constructive. As you had replied I thought I would ask you directly as it was the beginning of a discussion. But I’m sure your right! A quick google would reveal the answer to that one! Thanks for your help and I’ll try investigating as soon as I can. Take care
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Solved! With thanks again to Victor!

I finally got a look at the wiring last weekend and was able to pull one off an old spark in a scrapyard for testing. Although it ended up not being suitable for the window controls, it has confirmed that the wiring was certainly causing the locking issues. Just waiting on one I ordered from eBay for £35 now and will fit it as soon as I get time.

Incase it will help anyone in the future, the best way to replace this wiring is to remove the door panel, peel back the plastic and remove all wiring clips and connectors. Follow the wiring inside the door toward the front of the car and remove it by taking out the rubber seal on the door and pull the wiring through. To remove it from the other side, you have to remove the door first. Once the door is off, peel back the rubber covering the wiring and there is four clips to release. Then remove the door wiring loom as you would any other electrical wiring connections on a car. Once done just reverse the process and bobs your uncle!
Also, make sure to look at all the connectors on your old loom and compare it with the new one before fitting it! I only say this as I spotted the window connector was different than my own when at the scrap yard but decided to use it try and diagnose the locks.
 

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2010, Chevrolet Spark LT, 1206cc
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Hi, seen this post as i have an issue with my daughters 2010 spark central locking (locks then unlocks immediately) (Central Locking Fault)

My next step is to inspect the mechanism inside the drivers door. What I need to know is how to get the door panel off without damaging it? Can anyone advise on this please?

Thanks
Ricki
 
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