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Hi I have a code coming up P2246. Regarding O2sensor. My car has done112000klm. Dog has been cleaned and new air filter recently as well as oil and filter change. As it was blowing black smoke and limp mode due to a soft intake hose damaged. Could the code be related. Thanks I'm a little clueless
 

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Cpett, The code given does not necessarily mean that the sensor is faulty - only that it has given an out of range reading.
You dont give us any maintenance/service history but your description of black smoke and limp mode is also rather characteristic of a blocked or sticking EGR valve. Insufficient 'blending' of air and recycled gasses will cause these symptoms as well as affect the exhaust flow over the sensors. You dont actually say whether the air filter change (and the new air hose) solved the black smoke problem.

Have you ever had the EGR valve cleaned/serviced? If not that is where I would look first. Difficult to get at - for a non mechanic this is probably best left to your dealer to do. Get their opinion as to EGR being cause first. They will have suitable diagnostic equipment.
https://www.obd-codes.com/p2246

I have responded to your Newbies post and given tips on completing your Sign-Up. Copy here:-
https://www.chevroletownersclub.co....tre/6693-helpful-suggestions-using-forum.html

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I've just seen your addendum about the DPF being cleaned. This should happen automatically in the course of driving. If it was that bad necessitating forced regeneration cleaning then this gives further indicator that poor air ratio possibly involving the EGR is the most likely cause. I'm surprised your dealer didnt suggest EGR cleaning!
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Hi again. The car seems to run fine again now Sorry yes the change of filters and hose has resolved the smoke problems. The codes no longer show when we scan the car except the oil service light won't reset now.
 

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Hi again. The car seems to run fine again now Sorry yes the change of filters and hose has resolved the smoke problems. The codes no longer show when we scan the car except the oil service light won't reset now.

Oil reset may need to be done by your dealer, unless you have access to Test Equipment capable of doing this.
The 'manual' owners capability to reset was removed on later models.

There are numerous existing discussions (all under slightly different Topic captions) which you can read by using the Forum Index Search function. Tools>Advanced Search>(topic/question)>Captiva.

Reminder: dont forget to complete your World location and helpful to add vehicle data in Footer. (See my earlier link to you).

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If you have access to a "launch" branded scan tool, the oil life can be reset but due to a software bug you may have to go through the petrol engine model. The process without a scan tool doesn't work on the 2.2
 

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Hi again. The car seems to run fine again now Sorry yes the change of filters and hose has resolved the smoke problems. The codes no longer show when we scan the car except the oil service light won't reset now.
Hi i have the same problem p2246 and my car is the 2.2 ltz captiva 184bhp 2013 full service history it runs spot on no smoking put poor economy and when it's regenerates it takes forever and ever I think it's the bank 1 senser at fault
My car is a UK

 

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Dav, Although the code comes from the data provided by the Sensor it does not mean the sensor is at fault.
The Sensor is doing precisely what it there to do - ie report a fault. It simply means that there is a fault - in the air to fuel ratio.
Check the connections on your air intake and in particular look for hidden obscure splits or tears in the hose. Incorrect air volume will affect the ratio.
This is well discussed in the Forum. The Search function will assist you.
Check and clean if necessary the air filter and make sure it is correctly housed and sealed.
Check and clean (carefully to avoid damage) the MAF sensor.
Both DPF regen and MPG economy will be compromised if the air fuel ratio is wrong.

Info on your vehicle and your World location can be completed via the Sign-Up process in the appropriate locations.
Helpful info how to do this is in this link:- Helpful Guidance Using the Forum
 
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Thank you so much for your advice i will have a good look over the car i good notice the last time I checked the car car the diesel was leaking slightly from the fuel filters and I managed to nip both them up with them being plastic housing they must still have a slight leak I will try tighten up again many thanks
 

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The two fuel filters were not tighten correctly I got about 3 turns on each one so obviously they have been sucking air into the fuel through the fuel filters and also I have changed air filter and checked the air filter connections down to the turbo and i have cleared fault codes with with my £10 diagnostics scanner tool P2246 so hopefully this fix the problem with the mpg and dpf regeneration
 

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Cpett, The code given does not necessarily mean that the sensor is faulty - only that it has given an out of range reading.
You dont give us any maintenance/service history but your description of black smoke and limp mode is also rather characteristic of a blocked or sticking EGR valve. Insufficient 'blending' of air and recycled gasses will cause these symptoms as well as affect the exhaust flow over the sensors. You dont actually say whether the air filter change (and the new air hose) solved the black smoke problem.

Have you ever had the EGR valve cleaned/serviced? If not that is where I would look first. Difficult to get at - for a non mechanic this is probably best left to your dealer to do. Get their opinion as to EGR being cause first. They will have suitable diagnostic equipment.
P2246 O2 Sensor Reference Voltage Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1

I have responded to your Newbies post and given tips on completing your Sign-Up. Copy here:-
https://www.chevroletownersclub.co....tre/6693-helpful-suggestions-using-forum.html

.

I've just seen your addendum about the DPF being cleaned. This should happen automatically in the course of driving. If it was that bad necessitating forced regeneration cleaning then this gives further indicator that poor air ratio possibly involving the EGR is the most likely cause. I'm surprised your dealer didnt suggest EGR cleaning!
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Hi Aussie Ed.

Similar issues to above, and many others posts who discuss thisfor my ‘14 Captivablack smoke, loss of power, rough idling once or twice, fault codes, and the occasional limp mode...

Technician at Holden Dealership has said:
“Technician carried out diagnostic trouble code scan and
found codes P0404, P0401, P0101. These are all EGR and low intake pressure diagnostic trouble codes. Technician recommends replacing the EGR and cooler assembly, in addition to all gaskets, as well as the duct and elbow. The cost to complete these works is $3500.00.
The foreman strongly suggests that due to the EGR being stuck, and not just blocked, an EGR clean will be ineffective and not a viable use of funds.”

Firstly. Any thoughts on the fact it’s stuck, meaning it’s ‘uncleanable’? Doesn’t make sense to me considering all I’ve read on the topic so far.

Secondly, does the price for repair and replacement seem excessive in this instance?

Thirdly, has anyone had success or known of someone who has ‘removed/blanked/deleted’ the EGR system in a Captiva, as I simply cannot afford repairs of that magnitude of cost, and removal seems like a viable option...

And lastly, I’ve found that others had split hoses causing similar faults and issues. I wonder if maybe a replacement hose (if it is potentially split) and a proper clean might solve the issues?
 

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Quick answer. Check and double check air feed hoses for splits first. There are numerous discussions on hardly visible splits (often by a bracket). Correct airflow is vital before assuming that EGR is the cause. Inoperative EGR or codes implying EGR may be a spurious distraction. I cant comment on the cost you've been quoted other than man hours labour will be costly before you add the parts.

Removal of the EGR whether for cleaning or replacement is nightmare of a job. Plenty of existing discussions on EGR in general exist on the forum. Typical : How to dismantle EGR valve on Captiva 2.2L 2012

There are numerous posts on air feed hose splits too.

Use of the Forum Advanced Search function will provide lots of existing discussions. Go to three white dots top right of main page for drop-down, select Advanced Search option. Altering wording slightly will bring up other related discussions.

Casey, It is usual to complete your Sign-Up world location and vehicle details during the joining Sign-up process. You left these blank.
The Forum system believes you to be in Australia and we interpret your vehicle to be a 2014 Captiva
The following link will guide you on how to complete this info and other general 'tips'.
 

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Holden Captiva 2014 2.2L Turbo
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Quick answer. Check and double check air feed hoses for splits first. There are numerous discussions on hardly visible splits (often by a bracket). Correct airflow is vital before assuming that EGR is the cause. Inoperative EGR or codes implying EGR may be a spurious distraction. I cant comment on the cost you've been quoted other than man hours labour will be costly before you add the parts.

Removal of the EGR whether for cleaning or replacement is nightmare of a job. Plenty of existing discussions on EGR in general exist on the forum. Typical : How to dismantle EGR valve on Captiva 2.2L 2012

There are numerous posts on air feed hose splits too.

Use of the Forum Advanced Search function will provide lots of existing discussions. Go to three white dots top right of main page for drop-down, select Advanced Search option. Altering wording slightly will bring up other related discussions.

Casey, It is usual to complete your Sign-Up world location and vehicle details during the joining Sign-up process. You left these blank.
The Forum system believes you to be in Australia and we interpret your vehicle to be a 2014 Captiva
The following link will guide you on how to complete this info and other general 'tips'.
Cheers Ed. I think because I did a ‘quick sign in’ with gmail, it bypassed all of that sign up process. I’ll get to it now.

Trying to get in to see that hose now; can’t see any visible splits but as you said, could be hiding behind brackets etc. Struggling to find an easy way of checking the entire pipe!
It does look like the egr removal/replacement is out of my capabilities.. have read up on all the posts here and sounds like it’s potentially a blockage / and/or a split hose, considering everyone has had similar ‘symptoms’.
Hopefully will just find a split and replace the hose and have it all sorted out..
 
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