Automatic transmission fluid replacement?
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Never done it on the Captiva or Antara but done it on others eg Jeep Grand Cherokee. Drop the oil pan and catch fluid in large drain pan, then the filter assy, clean it all out and refit then refill transmission. Trouble is you're only changing half the fluid because you're not changing the fluid in the torque converter or the oil cooler, you need a proer rig to do that. Not really a DIY job unless you have access to ramp and equipment to flush it all out properly.
Victor is correct that 'total' refill is a specialist process. I've only ever had a 'drain' and refill which actually represents only about half the fluid actually gets changed.I recall that forum member BEL gave details of the full procedure in one of his posts about 2-2.5 years ago which involves running engine through the gear shifts etc.
I'll try and find it and post it tomorrow .
I'll try and find it and post it tomorrow .
On the 2ltr there is a drain plug [easy access] and a mini dip stick [ hidden down back of engine virtually inaccessible have to make up extension filler tube and extensionfor 2" dipstick and use probes to guide into filler hole] allow a fair amount of time and some calming down therapy. when I first changed my fluid the gearbox was performing fine but because I used it for towingthought it would not harm. when I dropped the fluid thought it was the engine oil, pure jet black !!!! .
must have caught it just in time, first thing changed the cooler not much bigger but more heat exchangersurface area went from a coil to a plate type. Secondthing fitted an extra in line filter with internal magnets . Third thing fitted a sensor and a gauge to give me a temp read out so I now know what is going on.
when draining, the coolers do drain, one in the radiator [helps warm the oil on start up] and one mounted in front of the radiator. so it is just the oil in the torque converter that is going to mix with the new. when I drain mine I get about 5ltrs out, can not remember total capacity. on my first change swopped the oil three times to get the colour back to something like. I had all four wheels in the air got the oil up to 65 degrees and went through the gears. Ichange the oil every year now just changed it this weekend but onlyone empty and fill no running through the gears, the colour is perfect. When filling to check the level oil has to be up to temperature and engine running.
Just a point about pressure cleaning the gearbox some people advise against it because any debris it removes can be left behind in places you do not want it, and prefer justto change the fluid.
Edited by: bel
must have caught it just in time, first thing changed the cooler not much bigger but more heat exchangersurface area went from a coil to a plate type. Secondthing fitted an extra in line filter with internal magnets . Third thing fitted a sensor and a gauge to give me a temp read out so I now know what is going on.
when draining, the coolers do drain, one in the radiator [helps warm the oil on start up] and one mounted in front of the radiator. so it is just the oil in the torque converter that is going to mix with the new. when I drain mine I get about 5ltrs out, can not remember total capacity. on my first change swopped the oil three times to get the colour back to something like. I had all four wheels in the air got the oil up to 65 degrees and went through the gears. Ichange the oil every year now just changed it this weekend but onlyone empty and fill no running through the gears, the colour is perfect. When filling to check the level oil has to be up to temperature and engine running.
Just a point about pressure cleaning the gearbox some people advise against it because any debris it removes can be left behind in places you do not want it, and prefer justto change the fluid.
Edited by: bel
Thanks Bel. I found your previous post (12 March 2015) part copied here :-
"Changing thefluidis awkward butwill go into it at a later date if requested, involves all 4 wheels in the air to go through all the gears and the wheels reaching 50 miles per hour while the abs and stability trying to kick in, also making extended dip sticks and filler tubes.No wonder they said filled for life. The above could be done at a garagebut my advice would be stop with the car ask to see the colour of thefluideach time it is dropped till satisfied its clean, the car also has run through every gear change between eachfluidchange, also the finalfluidlevel check is done with the car level, up to full gearbox working temp. have got temp. and the level is dipped with the engine running. "
"Changing thefluidis awkward butwill go into it at a later date if requested, involves all 4 wheels in the air to go through all the gears and the wheels reaching 50 miles per hour while the abs and stability trying to kick in, also making extended dip sticks and filler tubes.No wonder they said filled for life. The above could be done at a garagebut my advice would be stop with the car ask to see the colour of thefluideach time it is dropped till satisfied its clean, the car also has run through every gear change between eachfluidchange, also the finalfluidlevel check is done with the car level, up to full gearbox working temp. have got temp. and the level is dipped with the engine running. "
Will append my question here, as I have searched and found no pertinent answer. I am refilling my auto transmission using a pressure-operated container (I put atf in a bottle and pump pressure in it. The oil then goes through the filler tube into the gearbox), and I seem to be filling the gearbox with pressurized air. Once i relieve the pressure, all the atf fluid come right out of the fill pipe!
My question is: is there a relief valve on top of the gearbox, or is there any way to remove the excess air from the top of the gearbox?
I see a relief valve near the battery, but I am unsure if it's for the gearbox or transfer case.
Anyway, this relief valve seems to be stuck, so tomorrow I'll be removing the wheel closest to the gearbox and try to figure out a way to get the excess air out of it.
I am sure there must be a relief valve somewhere as otherwise the seals on the gearbox would fail!
My question is: is there a relief valve on top of the gearbox, or is there any way to remove the excess air from the top of the gearbox?
I see a relief valve near the battery, but I am unsure if it's for the gearbox or transfer case.
Anyway, this relief valve seems to be stuck, so tomorrow I'll be removing the wheel closest to the gearbox and try to figure out a way to get the excess air out of it.
I am sure there must be a relief valve somewhere as otherwise the seals on the gearbox would fail!
I am partly answering myself and whoever might have the same problem in filling the auto gearbox. There is a relief valve and if it is clogged, it will lead to pressure buildup during transmission operation (or fill) which will eventually lead to leaking seals. Tomorrow I will have a look at the relief valve and try to free it. I have its location shown in the service manual.
Just as a point of interest, when you say "relief valve" it may be what others would refer to as a breather. I'm not familiar with this particular transmission but breathers are normally located around the highest point of the transmission casing and meant to routinely allow the escape of any gaseous pressure build up, not the operating fluid pressure of the transmission which would be much higher. Relief valves usually allow over-pressurised fluid to return to the system reservoir.
There is a very specific sequence of flushing/refilling the Automatic gearbox which involves the vehicle being up on lifter with the wheels free to turn. The vehicle gear box needs to be shifted through the gears to ensure all voids solenoids are flushed. This topic and process has been previously discussed several times in this Forum in respect of the Series ll gearbox and I believe this process applies also to the earlier Series l.
Breather sorted out. Someone broke the nipple going through the gearbox casing and thought best to silicone the whole thing shut!
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Needless to say, it was impossible for me to fill the gearbox with fluid as the casing would pressurize and spill all the fluid back out. So I took out what was left of the nipple and stuck the breather pipe in directly
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Got out about 4 liters and put 5 and a half liters back. Drove and cycled through all gears. Measured fluid level when hot. All good.
As I get to drive it some more will report back on the results of the fluid change
Needless to say, it was impossible for me to fill the gearbox with fluid as the casing would pressurize and spill all the fluid back out. So I took out what was left of the nipple and stuck the breather pipe in directly
Got out about 4 liters and put 5 and a half liters back. Drove and cycled through all gears. Measured fluid level when hot. All good.
As I get to drive it some more will report back on the results of the fluid change
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