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Lots of stuff, which others will tell you better than me, however a colleague at work recently offloaded one to a dealer in exchange for an Amorok, and the Captiva had had it's DPF removed a couple of years ago due to the usual trouble. So, although I know next to nothing about them, I'd be making sure it actually has a DPF, or if not, getting a massive discount....
 

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Depending on the model, series 1 or series 11. Assuming you are in the UK, it will most likely be a diesel.

The earlier diesels had a problem with the cam follower bearings, usually very noisy. The built in SAT-Navs usually stop working.

Make sure there are no lights on at all, but also make sure taht they all come on at first-including the AWD and ABS lights.

Timing belt and water pump change over 60K miles.

My 2010 has needed lower control arm rear bushes, drop links, carrier bearing and all fluids changed. Factor that into the price on a series 1.

Not sure about the auto boxes, other may advise..
 

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I have a series 2 auto on just shy of 40k. Just bought the wife a Jeep so now using the Chevy as my commuter and work horse

Had 2 injectors go at 30k which might have been partly my wifes constant local driving or maybe poor fuel? Either ways that cost a grand but my driving is much longer runs and typically a bit heavier footed so no issues in the last 10k

My rad went from a stone chip (Obviously that a vehicle fault) but aftermarket are non existent. New one was £550 fitted but they noted the old one was collapsing and rotten in places which was a surprise

My first set of pads went at 33k. Tyres seem to last about 20k (I have the 20in Irmscher). Both DRL bulbs recently went within 3 weeks of each of. Should really change with LED's but just put the oem ones in for now

I bought mine new in Jan 14. Other than that its been fine. I get 40mpg on a run, 30mpg round town and low 20's when Im towing a big box trailer at around 70mph with a couple motorbikes inside

I own mine outright now and I'll run mine until it starts costing but its a **** good work horse for me
 

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Nice car, now very good prices. I traded mine in because an oil leak was about to cost me £1500 (engine needed dropping) Read the problems, whatever can go wrong will go wrong from satnav to gearbox and everything in between. Don't even think about it. Buy a Kia or Hyundai with plenty of warranty left!
 

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The clue is in K Campbell's last point....if you are going to buy a Captiva...make sure you.....a) get warranty...and b) be absolutely clear what the warranty actually covers.
When I owned a Captiva...the auto gearbox replacement (following failure) was £11k....paid (then) by Warrantywise.


NB - also worth considering what driving you are doing. If you are only doing short journeys it probably isn't the best choice. Plenty to read on here if you do a 'search'
 

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martin said:
Hi I’m looking at buying a Captiva is their [there] anything I need to be aware of.
Thanks Martin
You didnt complete your sign-up as to location in the world (this is a world wide forum) but with a BT Internet id I'll assume you are in UK.
You need to decide which Series/year/variant and if auto or manual gearbox. Without this info any reply is going to be guesswork.
The Search tab (under Tools) will open up a world of background about the Captiva; typically like this link: - http://www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk/forum/17-captiva/4224-lt-v-s-ltz-2013-model.html
which compares some of the differences.
Remember that forums by the very nature of them tend to be full of woes & wrongs so you will be reading the gloomy side of ownership.
The vital thing is to consider what are you going to need/use the vehicle for? If it is for pottering to/from town and short distance school runs the answer is Dont buy a diesel. Diesel Particulate Filters need good journeys to keep them clean and functional. Short trips will kill the DPF and give you nothing but frustration.
Come back with more info on what you need the vehicle for and you'll get more specific answer.
Visit the Captiva Search tab and have a good read.
In a nut shell I'm happy with my Series 2 (2012) Captiva.
 

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I’ve had my series 1 Captiva Diesel 2yrs this November. When I bought it on 71k miles I couldn’t find any receipt of cambelt change even though it had full service history. So I had the cambelt, drive belt and water pump changed for piece of mind. Other than that it’s just been wear and tear but like tyres etc.
My Captiva is a manual so no auto box issues and it’s been a bloody brilliant and reliable motor, it’s now done 89k miles too ?
 

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Who is there for a decent warranty?
Hi Dean,

Are you meaning this to be a new topic for conversation? If so it would be preferable to start a new Thread heading otherwise this will drift off topic.
For those who want to read up on Warranties (Good/bad and the ugly) there are numerous posts in the Captiva forum spanning the past three/four years discussing the pro's & con's.
The Search tab (under tools) is worth a visit for those wanting to read up on Warranties. My last post on this subject is here:- http://www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk/forum/17-captiva/4538-decision-made-renewing-extended-warranty.html

Please do not build further Warranty discussion on this current Thread title otherwise we are mixing subjects.
 

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Hello. I’m new to the group. Looking at the Captiva after I squashed my XC90 plans thanks to Which?

looking at the Mk2 Auto Diesel. Price seems to be very good which is a bit of a red flag for me.

All advice great fully received.

also if anyone has one in the greater Bristol area I would be very great full for a poke around and maybe a spin.
 

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Airwaves, Welcome to the Forum. Your question has been asked under several 'variant Topic' titles many times over.
I enjoyed ownership of my Series 2 Captiva but sold it earlier this year due to lack of use.
The main point to consider is that GM Chevrolet withdrew from UK market in 2015 and most dealerships/services disappeared. Some Vauxhall dealers will 'do their best' because the Antara is same mechanicals in a different body.
So be aware of possible difficulties in obtaining spares and diagnostic advice.
It depends on what you intend using the vehicle for. If it is for school runs and local shopping then I would suggest you avoid it. This vehicle likes and needs long runs to keep the DPF clean. DPF is probably the most prolific area of discussion on this forum, followed by gearbox woes.
If you needs lots of seating and or good stowage space then very well worth considering.

You can look up other discussions using the Forum Search facility. Helpful tips on exploring the Forum are on this link:-
 

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I have had both series I and series II. Both diesels. Series II AWD 2.2D LTZ automat is technically different vehicle and much better built.
Had mine almost seven years between 70tkm to 157tkm. No issues what so ever upto 100tkm. Then clacking injector no 1 which was replaced for € 500 ( 50% discount). Then the radiator was gone and replaced ( € 600) then .. nothing.
Changed oils every year max 10tkm intervals and also oils to gearbox, transfer box and differential. New brake pads once and new driving belt..
Mine had no oil dripping issues thus the oil pan area was "moist" of oil.
I traded mine ( € 9400) about a moth ago as had four old cars in the back yard. Traded Captiva and Clio and tested a Volvo V60 D3. Did not like that one and did not buy it. Now still got left my 18-years old Volvo V70 and wife´s mother´s old Primera.
Maybe i regret selling the Captiva which is stupid as there are plenty of cars available. You can always go to Sweden where the markets are much bigger and cars newer due to better living standard and much lower taxes.
What i have now realized is that Captiva was a cheap and reliable AWD with a lot of capabilities.... and the winter is coming soon...
 
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