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2010 Chevrolet Captiva LTZ Uk
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I’m thinking of buying a 2010 Captiva ltz
Manual
80000 miles
Seven seats
Buyer selling for £3800
Is there anything I should look out for ?
Any help be appreciated thanks
 

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NTBO, This topic has been asked several times previously. To save lots of repeated information have a look through the existing posts on the following link.
Make sure that you read the data in respect of Series 1 and not Series 2.

The Forum Search function is a useful facility. How to use the Forum has helpful info on the following link :-

Main considerations are :-
Full Service history (no gaps). All Service receipts. All Repair receipts. MOT advisories. If necessary get the AA/RAC to undertake a vehicle inspection.
If it is a dealer selling, check what the sales warranty covers and for how long.
 

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Hi

I’m thinking of buying a 2010 Captiva ltz
Manual
80000 miles
Seven seats
Buyer selling for £3800
Is there anything I should look out for ?
Any help be appreciated thanks
I would not pay that much for an 11 years old Cappy. I have seen series 2 (Not LTZ) going for £4500 - £5000.

Offer £3500.00 tops
 

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Anything you would recommend to look out for ?
Series 1. Replacement of Cam Belt should have been done by now. Wheel bearings check, thickness of discs check, failure of rocker/cams is common, failure of drop links is common. Full service history without gaps. Ensure that all 'Recalls' have been actioned.
On the assumption it is diesel there is likely to be DFP issues. If buying for 'around town short journey use' dont buy this. DPF needs long runs to keep clean.
Other responses are contained in this link : Search results for query: Buying Captiva
Dont mix Series 2 reports with Series 1. Both have had specific and different issues.
Other consideration is that Chevrolet have no dealership network in UK since pulling out in 2015.
In the event of major component failure repair will probably be totally uneconomical.
 
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Also for Z20S engine check for oil in the turbo inlet hose (disconnect it from the turbo), usually if oil is present it means that the PCV valve must be replaced. Since you disconnect the hose from the turbo inlet you could check the play in the turbine shaft by moving it with your fingers up-down and push-pull. If you don't feel movement, then the turbo should be OK. To check also variable turbo functionality you can use a scanner and check for the desired and delivered pressure at low RPM.
My advice is anyway to check the error codes and when they were cleared last time.

Also inspect the pulleys for alternator/ AC belt since it is a common failure -> you can check it visually -> when the engine is running the belt must ride the pulleys in their middle section and you should not see the belt shacking a lot.
 
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