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Chevrolet Captiva 2011 AWD 2.2 VCDI 184 PS Automatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello community,i have a problem with my Captiva 2.2 VCDI Automatic gearbox.At idle my engine had a strong vibration,when on stop with brake pedal pressed i can see how the hood is shaking and i feel the vibration to the steering wheel.When i drive i have no problem,no vibration,only at idle.I have no error code stored in ECU....what do you think?
 

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Steelman, There are no end of possibilities from engine mount, bearings, drive shafts, link arms, injector etc etc.
There are literally dozens upon dozens of existing posts (under various topic titles) on 'vibration' some of which are 'static' and others 'mobile'.
You can look up and read these posts by using the Forum Back Index. The Forum Search function will provide these discussions.
I've done the quick link for you here:- Search results for query: Vibration

As a new member the Guidance on Using the Forum link below is helpful reading. This will advise how to use the Advanced Search function and other tips such as completing your World location (which it appears you have left blank) and adding full vehicle info such as year, mileage, service history to your Signature Footer.
Helpful Guidance Using the Forum (open the link fully to read it all)

Vibrations can be notoriously tedious to locate the cause. You dont mention whether you have discussed this with your local dealer / mechanic / Service Agent where ever you are located and have the vehicle serviced. Where you have your vehicle serviced might well be first approach. He may put it up on lift and immediately detect a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have serviced the car in my local Opel dealer and they say that nothing is wrong with the car for this vibration but i don't belive them...i saw other Captiva with the same engine and the engine is very smooth at idle with no vibration.I mention the i have a stable idle rpm at 750 rpm,is that to low? Thx for reply Aussie.
 

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So let’s see:

No fault codes (or so you say).

Dealer serviced and they say there’s nothing wrong.

You don’t believe them.

You say its an automatic so there’s no DMF or the usual suspects around there.

No mileage stated.

No history re previous repairs etc.

Nah, think I’ll pass on this one. Crystal ball is in getting fixed right now. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
153000 km,no repairs history,no error code.
 

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You said your idle speed was about 750rpm which I'd say is a bit low. My car is a manual gearbox but usually idles about 800 to 850rpm. The only time the idle speed is low is when it's in the process of doing a DPF regen and I have to stop at a junction or a roundabout or something like that.

Have you had any trouble with your DPF regens?
 

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I have serviced the car in my local Opel dealer and they say that nothing is wrong with the car for this vibration but i don't belive them...i saw other Captiva with the same engine and the engine is very smooth at idle with no vibration.I mention the i have a stable idle rpm at 750 rpm,is that to low? Thx for reply Aussie.
I have doubts about the competence of the dealer, although to be fair, usually most dealers would say something was wrong (even if they made it up) to make an excuse to get your money. As an Opel dealer they should have the appropriate diagnostic equipment so to report no error codes is puzzling. My Captiva same year variant (now sold) idled at about 800-820rpm or slightly more.
Victor has in effect reiterated my earlier comments that there are so so many possibilities for this effect it really is a crystal ball task to diagnose over this forum.
I wondered if you have early signs of DMF or even an engine mount problem which once you have drive motion it 'beds home' and is then not apparent.

If you have another GM dealer within sensible driving distance I would be inclined to get a second opinion.

Good Luck

ps: appreciate you updating Location & vehicle info. This helps everyone reading this topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mine,when dpf is regenerating the rpm raise to 800 rpm,i don't have problem with dpf,but on the cold start when the idle rpm is higher,cca 800 rpm the engine is smoother but not perfect.Also on the cold start i observe that the rpm is fluctuating when the car is in D with the brake pressed.It îs posibile to tune the ECU to raise the rpm at idle?
 

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Same issue with my car. Repairers said there is nothing wrong with it (checked engine supports, exhaust, codes). Its automatic so no DMF. It annoys me as h ell when i am on a red light. No vibration when i press the gas pedal. Anyways, i gave up on this one.

Victor, please let me know mate, if you find the issue.
 

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Same issue with my car. Repairers said there is nothing wrong with it (checked engine supports, exhaust, codes). Its automatic so no DMF. It annoys me as h ell when i am on a red light. No vibration when i press the gas pedal. Anyways, i gave up on this one.
Have a look on the Vauxhall Antara forum, I've opened up some dialogue with Richy there, see Rough idle - Vauxhall Antara Forums
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I notice something interesting,during the dpf regeneration the engine run very smooth,no vibration at all.What engine parameters change during regeneration?
 

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There are different types of regeneration. My understanding in the case of the Captiva is that additional fuel injected during the exhaust stroke which supplies 'fuel' to the DPF to burn away the soot. This process increases the RPM slightly which probably provides the effect of smoother engine running.
It has to be remembered that the process of burning away the soot creates ash. This ash is not expelled and eventually in a higher mileage vehicle ash will build up blocking the DPF which will require replacing or opening up (professionally) and cleaned.

The following article explains the different types of DPF.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are different types of regeneration. My understanding in the case of the Captiva is that additional fuel injected during the exhaust stroke which supplies 'fuel' to the DPF to burn away the soot. This process increases the RPM slightly which probably provides the effect of smoother engine running.
It has to be remembered that the process of burning away the soot creates ash. This ash is not expelled and eventually in a higher mileage vehicle ash will build up blocking the DPF which will require replacing or opening up (professionally) and cleaned.

The following article explains the different types of DPF.
.
Yes is true,the rpm rise at 850 rpm during regeneration and run very smooth.It's not from the rising rpm because because i made an ECU remap on a local tuner to rise the rpm at 850 rpm but do not have the same effect,the engine do not vibrate so badly like on fefaut 750 rpm but is far from the smoothnes when the dpf is tegenerating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So you "made an ECU remap" did you? LOL

Drip, drip, drip
The remap was only for raising the idle rpm at 850 rpm believing that I will solve the problem with the engine vibration.I reverted back at original rpm value because the result was not as expected.During dpf regeneration engine rpm rise at 850 rpm but the engine run very very smooth an quiet.
 

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So when you were adjusting the RPM did you happen to notice what your fuel trims were? Just wondered if perhaps your No2 Oxygen sensor is a bit fritzy. Other thing that occurred to me was whethere the camshaft sensor was giving out a wrong signal and not giving proper correlation with the crank sensor but you can't rely on the cam sensor signals at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I compare the differences from some parameters with a bletooth obd adapter and torque android app.The pictures with yellow bold are parameters from idle in normal operations,the pictures with orange bold are parameters during regeneration.
 

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I compare the differences from some parameters with a bletooth obd adapter and torque android app.The pictures with yellow bold are parameters from idle in normal operations,the pictures with orange bold are parameters during regeneration.
Steelman,
Hi mate, do you still have the rough idle and engine shake when on idle in drive with your foot on the brake ??, maybe you have fixed the problem but may i suggest you try something if problem not fixed,, have engine idling in drive and apply parking brake only and see how it idles, if it idles okay or better than having your foot on the brake i would be looking at a Brake Booster leak that is causing vacuum loss, the engine is idling only and cant replace the loss of vacuum and the swirl flaps could lose position due to the vacuum loss,, just an idea, i had a similar problem on a different vehicle many years ago, Lurchy
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Steelman,
Hi mate, do you still have the rough idle and engine shake when on idle in drive with your foot on the brake ??, maybe you have fixed the problem but may i suggest you try something if problem not fixed,, have engine idling in drive and apply parking brake only and see how it idles, if it idles okay or better than having your foot on the brake i would be looking at a Brake Booster leak that is causing vacuum loss, the engine is idling only and cant replace the loss of vacuum and the swirl flaps could lose position due to the vacuum loss,, just an idea, i had a similar problem on a different vehicle many years ago, Lurchy
Hy Lurchy,

Yes,i still have this problem with engine vibration at idle.In neutral with no brake applied is not shaking so bad but still shake.When the car is in Drive and brake applied the engine vibrate harder,Where is this Brake Booster and how it can be fixed?

Thx for feedback.
 

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Hy Lurchy,

Yes,i still have this problem with engine vibration at idle.In neutral with no brake applied is not shaking so bad but still shake.When the car is in Drive and brake applied the engine vibrate harder,Where is this Brake Booster and how it can be fixed?

Thx for feedback.
Hi Steelman,
Mate i am thinking about what i said about Booster Vacuum leak, now i am not sure if the 2.2 ltr Diesel Turbo engine has a (Twin Vacuum Pumps or 2 Vaccum inlets and the pump is one unit), one way to check to see if you are loosing vacum is to carefully crimp or dissconnect and block of the vacumm hose going to the Brake Booster, the booster is on the drivers side in engine bay, it has a reservoir mounted on the front that holds the Brake Fluid, it is round looking and will have a short length of rubber hose mounted to the booster, try to crimp this carefully or dissconnect the hose (ONLY WITH VEHICLE STATIONARY AND NOT MOVING,, DO NOT DRIVE CAR),, put handbrake on and start engine, see if engine idles better with hose disconnected and blocked of, or crimped, if it does idle better suspect booster leak, if no better it must be something else, Lurchy
 
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