Chevrolet Owners Club banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Chevrolet Captiva 2.2, 2011 automatic
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I have owned this Chevrolet Captiva 2.2 diesel automatic 2011, (series 2) for almost 2 years now with quite an annoying issue related to turbo underboost petty much when I first bought it. I’ve taken it to several garages to try and diagnose the issue but they have all come back without being able to confidently state the problem. Hopefully someone may have a similar issue to direct me what to try next.

So the issue, the car drives perfectly all the time except when I boot it for more than 30 seconds (I.e. under heavy load) and then the spanner service light comes on and goes into limp mode. I can quite easily cover 500mile journeys without any trouble as long as I take my foot of the gas at around 25 seconds of booting it, letting the revs to full back below 2000 rpm. There is one particular 2 mile long hill on a motorway near me that will always quite consistently put the car into limp mode when I try and maintain 70mph. Once in limp mode, I stop turn off the ignition and restart, all lights are cleared and the car is out of limp mode.

Diagnostics state two codes, P0299 - engine underboost and P2263 Turbocharger boost system performance.
Even when the fault codes are cleared and I boot it to put it back into limp mode these tow fault codes are the only ones that reappear.

The last garage I took it too who just specialise in diagnostics stated it was undiagnosable but could state items that they thought it wasn’t. The symptoms almost suggest a turbo / wastegate issue, but knowing how expensive to replace this item they weren’t confident enough to tell me that it was an issue with the turbo and probably more suspected a possible sensor.
Turbo hoses checked and no leaks, holes, or loss of pressure.
DPF checked and engine runs with factory emissions so considered clean.
Car performance, power and engine boost all good provided it’s not sustained for more than 30 seconds.

So generally we can live with the car as it is except for the fact we want it to tow a caravan which will always put the car under load and hence then put it into limp mode.

In the UK Chevrolet parts aren’t cheap, so I don’t want to start randomly changing parts unless it looks really plausible that is the issue.

I’m not a mechanic but generally quite good with cars, so I’ve started to create a sensor / component map attached. Any help welcome
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,868 Posts
Help already exists on this Forum without asking for it. By using the Advanced Search facility it will reveal dozens of discussions concerning P0299.

Similarly P2263 has extensive discussion.

You will need to read them all very thoroughly so be methodical and patient.


The 'give-a-way' for me is your description of it occurring when you 'floor it' making full demand, - probably I suspect when the engine is quite hot? I would consider an 'aged' air intake hose which, when hot, is softened and the 'vacuum demand' sucks the air hose almost flat thus restricting flow as a strong possibility. Releasing the throttle allows the hose to resume shape and power is restored.
My description of this possibility was bang on the nail in a post about four years ago. The 'happy member' later posted a photograph of the soft hose flattened between his fingers. A new hose solved the problem. Static visual inspection in a service bay will seldom reveal this.
Discussions on soft air feed hose can be read here:- Search results for query: soft air hose

How to use the Advanced Search function is explained in the following link, which will also guide you on how to complete your Sign-Up data where you have left your World location blank (forum believes possibly UK?) and also add your vehicle details into the designated sections.

Good Luck.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,868 Posts
Read the following link post #12
 
  • Like
Reactions: ches

·
Registered
Chevrolet Captiva 2.2, 2011 automatic
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank Aussie Ed, I shall indeed look at the hoses again. I know they were checked and didn’t leak, but didn’t consider them being soft and collapsing.

normal turbo hoses I would expect to pay about £80’ish each, but in the Uk I was quoted £1400 for the pair, I see that you can get performance silicon hoses which are around the £100. Anything to be wary of with these, I guess I need to be careful to get the right part number.

thanks for your help. Got a lot of reading to do
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,868 Posts
Member Mondas said in his post (my most recent link to you) that he used Sparco performance hose.
Mondas does not appear to be a current Forum Member so possibly he has sold the vehicle since 2017.
 

·
Registered
Chevrolet Captiva 2.2, 2011 automatic
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thought I would give an update to my issue, I’ve now had all the hoses replaced for new ones but unfortunately this hasn’t resolved the issue. I think Aussie Ed is on the right lines that it must be down to something being exposed to excessive heat once the turbo has been hard working for 20-30 seconds, then this failing and causing the ecu to put it into limp mode.

the fact the engine, turbo works really well and delivers plenty of power I’m reluctant to believe it is a mechanical fault with the turbo or wastegate, in fact I’ve just driven it 400miles and being careful not to boot it for more than 20seconds at a time the car drove perfectly well for the journey.

My thoughts now point towards a sensor breaking down, possibly a lambda sensor, MAF or MAP ??

any thoughts welcome
 

·
Registered
Chevrolet Captiva 2.2, 2011 automatic
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A couple more months gone by and I’ve now changed the MAP sensor. Alas no difference. Especially when the one I took off was quite dirty, (photo).
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive wheel system Gas


the car still drives fine plenty of power, no black smoke, in fact no smoke. Just still goes into limp mode if I boot it for more than 20seconds

I’ll try the MAF sensor next, but I’m thinking more the variable veins on turbo. Is there anyway to test them without taking the turbo off the car.

thanks for any advice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
I know that for other cars (VW) you can check with the engine off if you can move the actuator by hand, but I think you can do it also with car that have electrical control of the VGT. If you can move it, the VGT most probably works fine.
Here is a video with some explanation:
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top