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Hi, I wonder if anyone can help.

I have a 2008 (58) Chevrolet Captiva 2.0 Diesel with automatic transmission, approx 108k miles. I have tried searching for similar issues all over the internet but nothing similar that is insightful.

For the past 2 months or so I have experienced two issues with my Captiva which may or may not be related.

1.) Firstly when travelling in excess of approx 65mph more often than not my car will go into what appears to be some form of limp mode. In which the car stays in 4th gear only the Malfunction indicator lamp comes on (it's permanently on now), ESC active and warning lamp and ESC off indicator are also illuminated when the problem arises. The car still appears to have power and drive normally except restricted to 4th gear. It will allow me to put it in 2nd gear if i am nearly at a stand still. If i turn my engine off for a second and back on it is completely fine until i go in excess of the speed mentioned above. Note it is not exactly 65mph it can be any speed above this but i am confident i could drive down an express way at 60mph or less consistently without this problem arising.

I took it to a garage who done a diagnostic on the ecu the first day it happened who suggested that it may need an automatic gearbox/transmission but that was on day one of getting the issue. On that day it was raining quite badly and the garage suspected it may happen when driving through a body of water as a result of the drag effect on the transmission..... To be honest they bamboozled me with mechanics, however Since then i have been driving it and as depicted above been able to ascertain fairly accurately conditions that cause the issue to arise and it happens on a perfectly dry day. If i drive less than the speed stated above the car is completely fine. There is the odd occasion were i drive in excess of 65mph and the issue does not arise at all, but it's rare.

I appreciate the automatic gearbox/transmission may be at fault but i believe this is uneconomical option to replace therefore thought i would reach out and see if anyone else has experienced a similar issue.



2.) This second issue appears to have arose about a month later, which could possibly be a manifestation of that issue. When the engine is cold the engine appears to have very little power for the first minute or so of driving. I have to give it a couple of minutes to warm up or it will take a lot of revs to even crawl forward or backwards. After a minute or so it regains power and is fine until the above issue arises at speed.

Any insight if anyone has experienced this issue before or similar would be very much appreciated.

Many Thanks
 

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58, There is a whole lot of reading on this forum concerning the auto gearbox although most of it relates to the Series 2 model.
It certainly sounds at first reading to be gearbox related but see my comments later. My first and obvious question is when was the Automatic Transmission Fluid last changed? There is also an ATF filter.

I'm also wondering if you have a choked up DPF filter (?has the 58 model got a DPF ?). This can cause limp home mode with loss of performance.

A (hidden) split in air feed hose can allow too much air intake which the automatic fuel adjustment cant compensate for and cause too weak a mixture and power loss.

Semi Blocked air filter not allowing enough air will adversely affect performance especially at speed where 'volume' of fuel/air mixture may well be needed.

Electronic Stability Control illumination can be due to a number of factors. Stability sensors are inter-related. If the vehicle detects a problem with stability it will automatically restrict power in an effort to allow you to regain stability. Possible reasons for perceived instability can be (i) faulty/defective ABS sensor, (ii) under inflated tyre giving different number of revolutions, (iii) wheel bearing failing allowing 'oscillation' of wheel stability, (iv) shock absorber/spring failure (v) bush / drop link arm.

You say you took it for diagnostic check but dont help us by omitting to telling us what codes were recorded! What diagnostic codes do you have?

How long have you owned the vehicle and has it been regularly serviced?

Finally, you have not completed anysignup data and dont even tell us where you are located.


Come back with codes for starters and we can work from there.





Edited by: Aussie Ed
 

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Hi Thanks for the reply. It is very insightful.

I have owned the vehicle for approximately 3 years. I am the 2nd owner. I do not believe the automatic transmission fluid has been changed certainly in my ownership. Although i have had a full service conducted every year and do approximately 12,000 per annum. The last service was at the beginning of July 2017. I suspect the above is not part of a full service? I live on the outskirts of Liverpool.

My vehicle does have a DPF filter and warning light which is not illuminated. I drive down the motorway regularly for work so believe this should have had an opportunity to go through the process frequently so suspect this should not be the issue.

Note there is no loss of power when this issue arises. The loss of power is solely when starting from cold for example first thing in the morning and that only lasts for a couple of minutes and is fine thereafter once it's started warming up.

Is the captiva being restricted to 4th gear unless driving less than < 20mph it will allow you to go into 2nd gear is that the standard limp mode? Withoutself incriminating myself when this issue arises it will still comfortably do 80mph+ and act very responsive as normal just with the gear restriction.

Unfortunately I do not know what error code was captured, in hindsight i should have requested it and documented it. I was basically told they were unsure exactly what the cause of the issue was with a few hypotheses but indicated the automatic grearbox own ecu was reporting an error and if so very expensive so probably best to get rid as likely uneconomical to repair. I suspect if i want to pursue this further i will have to get it retested to obtain the code.

Your comment about the ESC, i have had both rear bearings done about a year or 2 back and I believe the front drivers side about 6 months or so back. But they were all making a distinct noise at the time (a rubbing noise) that led me to taking the vehicle to the garage. I do not believe the front passenger side has been done but their is no audible noise but i guess that's a possiblility.

The reason why i have started to investigate this further is because the more i have driven it and understood the conditions when it happens (note I am none mechanically minded as you can probably tell) to me at least it seem's like it must be something causing a mis reading at speed but has me inclined to believe the the automatic gearbox itself is not screwed....

I guess i need to make a decision as to whether i throw money at it in order to troubleshoot and determine the root cause on the chance it's not as serious as suspected or time to move on.

Many thanks for the support.
 

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58, appreciate the update. As the implied problem was diagnosed as gearbox but otherwise runs well restricted to 4th gear, the only suggestion I can make now is for you to consider having the ATF (Automatic Transfer Fluid) flushed and changed in the hope that it may simply be that.This fluid is pricy but if the vehicle is now almost ten years old and possibly not been changed at all, then this is an obvious consideration which for modest cost might breathe new life into the gears.

PS: dont forget to complete your sign up and add your vehicle details to your footer (like mine below) so that forum readers can identify the vehicle on successive posts.

Good luck.
 

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Someone on this forum had the same problem and came to the conclusion that it was the ICU, easy to replace and you can have them repaired.

But check you fluid level first.
 

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yes thats correct, someone else here had transmission problem, it enden up being the the TCU and not the transmission.
Edited by: A-Man
 

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Hi, I wonder if anyone can help.

I have a 2008 (58) Chevrolet Captiva 2.0 Diesel with automatic transmission, approx 108k miles. I have tried searching for similar issues all over the internet but nothing similar that is insightful.

For the past 2 months or so I have experienced two issues with my Captiva which may or may not be related.

1.) Firstly when travelling in excess of approx 65mph more often than not my car will go into what appears to be some form of limp mode. In which the car stays in 4th gear only the Malfunction indicator lamp comes on (it's permanently on now), ESC active and warning lamp and ESC off indicator are also illuminated when the problem arises. The car still appears to have power and drive normally except restricted to 4th gear. It will allow me to put it in 2nd gear if i am nearly at a stand still. If i turn my engine off for a second and back on it is completely fine until i go in excess of the speed mentioned above. Note it is not exactly 65mph it can be any speed above this but i am confident i could drive down an express way at 60mph or less consistently without this problem arising.

I took it to a garage who done a diagnostic on the ecu the first day it happened who suggested that it may need an automatic gearbox/transmission but that was on day one of getting the issue. On that day it was raining quite badly and the garage suspected it may happen when driving through a body of water as a result of the drag effect on the transmission..... To be honest they bamboozled me with mechanics, however Since then i have been driving it and as depicted above been able to ascertain fairly accurately conditions that cause the issue to arise and it happens on a perfectly dry day. If i drive less than the speed stated above the car is completely fine. There is the odd occasion were i drive in excess of 65mph and the issue does not arise at all, but it's rare.

I appreciate the automatic gearbox/transmission may be at fault but i believe this is uneconomical option to replace therefore thought i would reach out and see if anyone else has experienced a similar issue.



2.) This second issue appears to have arose about a month later, which could possibly be a manifestation of that issue. When the engine is cold the engine appears to have very little power for the first minute or so of driving. I have to give it a couple of minutes to warm up or it will take a lot of revs to even crawl forward or backwards. After a minute or so it regains power and is fine until the above issue arises at speed.

Any insight if anyone has experienced this issue before or similar would be very much appreciated.

Many Thanks

Sorry to bump this but did you ever find the problem. Having the exact same gearbox issue @115 000km.
 

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MikeSA,

It is frustrating when posts are never closed off with a solution.

There are so so many possible causes that my suggestion to you is to come back to us with some Diagnostic Trouble Codes otherwise we can 'blather on' that it might be this or it might be that for dozens of posts.
DTC will at least start to point us in some direction worthy of constructive discussion rather than pure guess work.

Helpful tips on navigating the forum on the following link my be useful reading.

.
 

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I'd forgotten all about this thread but looking at the OP’s comments he mentions the ESC active warning lamp and ESC off indicator are illuminated when the problem arises.

If the Transmission Control Unit gets the vehicle speed through a pulse signal, it could be a faulty ABS sensor that’s causing the problem. It may not develop a fault code in the ABS control system, depends on the corruption of the signal but it might be worthwhile checking over all the connections etc and scanning the ABS system with a suitable diagnostic system to find out.

He also says the problem usually occurs at 65 mph which begs the question whether the Series 1 Captiva has a speed limiter fitted? I know the Series 2 Antara does but don’t know offhand whether it’s programmable through the BC interface.
 

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Hi Victor, It is a possibility I guess. The ABS sensors (failure off) certainly appear to contribute to a large percentage of posts on this forum and the different guises they affect the vehicle are many fold.
What I couldnt fathom out on the OP was the mention in his second observation of the vehicle struggling for power only when cold. Whether this is/was an associated issue with his number one problem we dont know because the solution was never posted.
Hence I can only suggest to MikeSA to try and provide DTC's and a fuller description of what his problem manifests itself as. Then we can put our combined thinking caps on to try and narrow it down.
.
 

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Hi chaps. So, I haven't done the diagnostic yet, bit something too add. My tcs, centre diff, abs lights are all illuminated. Previous owner had brakes done and the lights came on. Basically just answered myself here haha. Going to replace the sensors and see what happens...

PS, mine happens from 105-110kph( very similar speed as the OP). My cruise control stops working when this happens. Car stays in a high gear(possibly 4th) but manually can select 2nd gear and drive and shift up to 4th but it won't change up from there... may be a limp mode situation?

Thanks, Mike.
 

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Mike, Before you 'replace the sensors' (ABS) you can test them. Also worth noting that corroded contacts in the wiring connector blocks can often be a cause especially on older models.
You can use the Forum Search tool to look up and read how to test ABS sensors.
Reminder: please add your vehicle details to your Signature / Footer. The Link I provided two weeks ago in post #11 Helpful Guidance explains how to do this. Having vehicle info 'Footing' every post makes it easy for new readers to instantly recognise the vehicle year/variant etc under discussion.
.
 

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Previous owner had brakes done and the lights came on.
This sounds to me like an ABS ring issue. When you change the brake discs, the magnetic ABS rings on the bearings can break if you use a hammer to remove the old brake disc. So it really worth checking the output of the sensor with a multimeter and look for damage on the back of the bearing (I don't really know if you can see it without removing the bearing...).
 

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Ches,
This is indeed one of the many possibilities. MikeSA has still not informed us since joining this topic discussion which year / series his vehicle is. (although I have asked that he complete his Signature/Footer).
It is certainly likely that if he has an older model that corrosion of the reluctor rings has either lead to the ring splitting or indeed physical impact as you mention. That is why I suggested that he test the ABS sensors first (easy to get to) and if they are electronically sound then reluctor ring damage is a possibility to look at next. The lack of diagnostic trouble codes isnt helping either.
 
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