[Gamma56]

I recently disconnected the negative battery lead for a period of approximately 24 hours to try and clear an engine warning light, after reconnecting the neg lead I was unable to start the car. All the dash lights were illuminated initially with some going out after a short period but a number stayed on, including traction control not ready, both traction control, both hill decent, service soon etc. I have since replaced the key battery for a new one and also the car battery for a brand new one and still no change to any of the issues. Is there anyone who can offer any solutions or advice on what the problem could be and how to remedy it, this would be very much appreciated . Thanks Gamma56

 

[Gamma56]

The vehicle in question is a 2007 diesel 2.0 ltr.

 

[Aussie Ed]

Gamma , the clue might well be in what you havent told us.
Your first line in your post said "I recently disconnected the negative battery lead for a period of approximately 24 hours to try and clear an engine warning light"
What was the engine warning warning you about? Did you establish any diagnostic codes before disconnecting the negative?

 

[Gamma56]

Gamma , the clue might well be in what you havent told us.
Your first line in your post said "I recently disconnected the negative battery lead for a period of approximately 24 hours to try and clear an engine warning light"
What was the engine warning warning you about? Did you establish any diagnostic codes before disconnecting the negative?

I can't remember exactly the fault code but it was to do with air intake so I replaced the air cleaner and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and that didn't clear the fault, I think the next thing to check was the EGR. Thanks for your quick response, much appreciated. Gamma

 

[Aussie Ed]

Sometimes the MAF doesnt respond to cleaning. Before you head off in the direction of the EGR I would probably get a new MAF sensor and try that first.

 

[ches]

Remove the MAF sensor connector and try to start. The car should work in limp mode, but at least you will narrow the list of suspects . If the car starts with the MAF sensor disconnected it means that the one on the car is toast or you forgot to connect a hose (or you have a big hole) on the air admission system between air filter and intake .

 

[Gamma56]

Remove the MAF sensor connector and try to start. The car should work in limp mode, but at least you will narrow the list of suspects . If the car starts with the MAF sensor disconnected it means that the one on the car is toast or you forgot to connect a hose (or you have a big hole) on the air admission system between air filter and intake .

Thanks for the info, disconnected the MAF connector but car will still not start. Cheers Gamma

 

[Aussie Ed]

A 'no start' can be due to any one of a multitude of reasons. I think you need to establish fresh diagnostic trouble codes and advise us what they are.

 

[Gamma56]

A 'no start' can be due to any one of a multitude of reasons. I think you need to establish fresh diagnostic trouble codes and advise us what they are.

Thanks will do, having a mechanic look at it tomorrow .

 

[Gamma56]

Thanks will do, having a mechanic look at it tomorrow .

The mechanic wasn't able to rectify the problem on his first inspection and has gone to study some electrical diagrams. The more that I research and read about the problem it is sending me towards an issue with the Body Control Module. Any thoughts ?

 

[Jonty]

Hi Gamma,

I doubt related but a quick one to rule out or otherwise.

Some time ago, my wife's 2012 Captiva had issues albeit with intermittent starting. I feared the ECU had gone but thankfully the root cause was something far more 'simple'. The engine compartment fuse block had a dirty connection. Previously giving it a tap (slap) would allow the car to start normally. When 'the 'issue' was present the car would not start, front fogs would light up, driver side wing mirror indicator would just be 'on' along with an array of dash warning lights.

The fuse block was removed, dismantled and cleaned. Feeds were also removed, cleaned and refitted. Nothing else done and it's been fine since.

Try the 'slap'! Fingers crossed!

Jonty.

 

[Gamma56]

Hi Gamma,

I doubt related but a quick one to rule out or otherwise.

Some time ago, my wife's 2012 Captiva had issues albeit with intermittent starting. I feared the ECU had gone but thankfully the root cause was something far more 'simple'. The engine compartment fuse block had a dirty connection. Previously giving it a tap (slap) would allow the car to start normally. When 'the 'issue' was present the car would not start, front fogs would light up, driver side wing mirror indicator would just be 'on' along with an array of dash warning lights.

The fuse block was removed, dismantled and cleaned. Feeds were also removed, cleaned and refitted. Nothing else done and it's been fine since.

Try the 'slap'! Fingers crossed!

Jonty.

Thanks for the info, I will give all of it a try.