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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I'm picking up my Captiva later today, one thing I will miss from my Honda, will be a bluetooth, I had the Xcarlink adapter fitted to the Honda (lead plugs into the back of the stereo) it replaces the cd changer, and lets you stream music and calls via the in car speakers, I can't find anything like it for Chevy.


Any Chevy owners out there have ideas on Bluetooth adapters and for that matter, aftermarket satnavs ?



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For aftermarket satnav, get a tom tom- they're brilliant. As for bluetooth, any of the well known makes, parrot, nokia, bury should be fine. The stereo is a bugger to get out mind, but I fitted a wired (no bluetooth) THB Bury to my Captiva using an autoleads adaptor (06-924 or SOT-924, for wired or bluetooth respectively) and it works great. If you're not confident about doing it yourself, I'd advise getting the bluetooth fitted professionally as it's not the easiest job I've ever done due to the difficulty in removing the two silver panels at either side of the radio to get the unit out. That said, there is loads of room behind the dash and tunnel trims for hiding the wiring and the electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you tell me your method to remove the silver panels, I am going to fabricate a mount for the cubby box, and would like to feed a power cable behind the centre consol.


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The silver panels are a right bar steward- they have 4 clips, 1 above and 3 below the vents, plus some smaller tangs along their length. The vents are attached to the panels and come out with them. You will need some plastic trim removal tools- I got mine for a few quid on ebay. You have to carefully prise the panels off- they take much jiggling and force- just take it nice and easy- I would start at the bottom and work up- the bottom of the panels come away much easier, the top round the vents is the most difficult part of the job. The metal clips on the panels have a habit of staying in the console and can be a bugger to get back out- if they fall in the console they're gone forever, unless you are lucky and can reach them through the bottom of the fuse panel cover on the o/s of the tunnel cover at the clutch pedal. The secret, if there is one, is to take as much time and do things as slowly and carefully as required. Once these are out, the stereo is a doddle, just 4 10mm bolts and out it comes- it has a decent length of wiring on it too, to make things easier. The stereo doesn't have a code as standard, so provided no one has set it, you should be fine. The code/recode protocol is in the owner's handbook.


Best of luck....
 
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