[Aussie Ed]

Trev, Repeated re-generations that are never completed will 'stack up' and eventually the vehicle will go into limp home mode. Your description would seem to indicate this as a strong possibility.How long have you owned the vehicle, manual or auto, mileage, service history, what sort of use ie mostly around town, much open road. Tell us as much as possible.

 

[Aussie Ed]

Trev, how you've managed two years worth of travel with only a couple of regen I really dont know. I think they have been desperately trying to take place in the background. Mine needs regen every 4-6 weeks as we generally have short journeys. Fan spinning on driveway isnt clearing out the DFP - that is the fan cooling down the over hot engine block and DPF because you have stopped moving and the DPF regen is aborted.

Simple OBD2 devices should be able to provide fault code and verify DPF, but dont not have the capability of writing instructions to the ECU etc for a forced regeneration.
I would think you need dealer intervention. It might even be necessary for DPF 'flush' or total replacement.

If you are unsure where your nearest Chevrolet Service dealer is you can register (for free) on www.mychevrolet.eu Here you can check for dealers, etc.

If you have or can borrow an OBD2 reader come back to us with stored codes.

Edit: My regen lamp doesnt illuminate either; it is a case of the driver looking out for signs and being 'in-tune' with the vehicle - sitting on the drive with the fan running was one of those signs!


Edited by: Aussie Ed

 

[Aussie Ed]

Trev, thought I had better add comment on engine oil. As you have reached the limp home mode situation, the number of aborted regens would have 'washed' excessive amounts of fuel past the cylinders and into the sump. This can be checked by inspecting the oil level on dip stick. If it is high the oil has been diluted and will need draining and replacing asap. Diluted engine oil lacks the necessary lubrication and the next thing will be bearing failure. Always use the designated oil grade. Incorrect oil will create additional particulates which adds to the DPF problem. (refer handbook for correct oil).

ps: the reason fuel gets washed down into the sump is because the regen process injects additional fuel on the exhaust stroke which then 'ignites' in the DPF creating the 'burn' to destroy the carbon particles.
If it is aborted this unburnt fuel simply ends up in the engine oil.



Edited by: Aussie Ed

 

[Aussie Ed]

Trev, I had a thought overnight. Before you resort to dealer forced regen it might be worth trying a dpf cleaner - especially one that states it reduces the burn temperature of the soot.Read this link which has various info :-

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dpf+cleaner+that+reduces+temperature&oq=dpf+cleaner+that+reduces+temperature&aqs=chrome..69i57.18297j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 

If you add one of these treatments you might get sufficient fuel flow to start the cleaning process before the limp home mode trips in. You may need to repeat a treatment next refill.
I notice on the link page listed above that Halfords Auto Centres (not the small shops) do DPF cleaning.



The Millers Eclipse that Kev refers to is a fuel additive for ongoing use (not for cleaning blocked DPF's) that can have the effect of improving the 'burn' of the fuel in the cylinders which in turn can reduce the amount of particles the dpf has to deal with. I've used Millers for over four years.

 

[Aussie Ed]

Progress of sorts. Item 3 on the following link makes reference to a sticking EGR valve having impact on the DPF.https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/dpf-diesel-particulate-filter/our-top-five-tips-on-keeping-your-dpf-clean

 

[Aussie Ed]

Lofty, There is reference in the following article to the MAF (mass airflow sensor). This can be easily removed and cleaned with spray cleaner (dont touch the fine filaments with fingers). I'd try easy and inexpensive possibilities like this first before having the engine bay stripped down!

https://www.obd-codes.com/p02e4


ps: Lofty you dont tell us year/variant/manual/auto etc of your vehicle so readers have to guess - it really does help forum readers to know! You can add this in the signature box on set up page. You havent completed your location in your set up either but make reference to Manchester?







Edited by: Aussie Ed

 

[Aussie Ed]

Lookers did a DPF forced regen replaced an injector.

Presumably they had Codes for these or are they simply 'milking you' and taking advantage of your possible lack of knowledge? This comment about stripping the engine bay down seems to be a 'we dont really know but we'll empty your wallet while we experiment' sort of response!

 

[Aussie Ed]

You are correct Victor. My throttle body problem did show P0254 (P02E4 - noting for those who are unaware that alpha refs run through the alphabet ie A=1, B=2 etc) .Readers can follow my solution via the following link:-
http://www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk/forum/engine-management-light-eml_topic5539_page1.html#.WicC_FVl_X4

I also had code P0252, and P0331 - the latter being a spurious code I think.

I would hope that the new poster (lofty) has Extended Warranty but he hasnt indicated he has. We dont even know year or model.


Edited by: Aussie Ed

 

[Aussie Ed]

Extended warranty run out.

Oh dear! Renewing it would have cost probably a fraction of the cost of the strip down, which now is looking increasingly likely.

Double check through the suggestions I was given (see my previous message above with the link).
Victor and others offered suggestions to check re possible connections, EGR sticking etc etc.
As you will see the outcome of mine, although the diagnostics looked like failed throttle body & its electronic controls, I believe it was simply the blown throttle body gasket.

 

[Aussie Ed]

Lofty, A good inexpensive solution that also proves the knowledge base of some dealers is questionable and others are exceptional.I cant help saying that I did mention the MAF in my post early December.

"There is reference in the following article to the MAF (mass airflow sensor). This can be easily removed and cleaned with spray cleaner (dont touch the fine filaments with fingers). I'd try easy and inexpensive possibilities like this first before having the engine bay stripped down!"

You've more cash for Christmas now.

 

[Aussie Ed]

CAZ, Do tell us year/series/variant/auto/manual etc etc. All we know is you have a Captiva

Rather unclear - are you meaning someone told you your limp home mode was GPS ??? Are you sure they didnt say DPF. I'm confused.
Better if you come back to us with diagnostic code(s) and information on any dash lamps illuminated as well as any lead up information about vehicle behaviour before you experienced limp home mode.





Edited by: Aussie Ed

 

[Aussie Ed]

I've been thinking further about this. Limp Home mode can be activated for any number of reasons.It is a 'self protect' function by the vehicle to indicate something is wrong and needs attention.
DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is a very common cause. In fact I would estimate that probably a quarter of all issues on the Captiva forum relate to DPF. You can find out lots - and I mean lots more info by using the 'Search' tab on this section and make yourself comfortable in a chair for a lot of reading!

Without further information, especially some diagnostic code(s) then we are simply guessing as to what your vehicle problem might be.
If it is DPF related then it is likely you have ignored previous attempts for the DPF to complete it's regeneration cycle. It will only allow this for say 5-6 aborted attempts and then activate Limp Home Mode.
Usually this necessitates intervention by your Chevrolet Service Dealer to 'over-ride' and initiate a forced regeneration to clear the DPF of debris.
Absolutely crucial that you establish some codes in case it is something else.
By the way what year/series and how many miles has the vehicle done?