As you look at the front of the car with the bonnet up, it's at the back of the engine on the left, below the brake and clutchreservoirs. If you're thinking of changing it (it's not difficult) first drain the sump, then you need to take off the airbox lid and trunking,disconnectingthe air flow meter and remove the engine cover. You then unscrew the top of the housing with a 27mm socket- I needed a universal joint as the clutch reservoir gets in the way- and lift away, then retrieve the filter from the housing. Then under the car you need to undo the 17mm bolt at the base of the filter and drain the housing. The refit the bolt. Replace the rubber seal in the cap (included with the filter), refit the filter and screw up the top of the housing, tightening top the correct torque. Re fill with the correct grade of fully synthetic oil (5w/40, AECA C3 if you still have your DPF in place), start and allow to idle (having replaced the wire to the air flow meter to prevent the MIL coming on), recheck oil level, top up if required and you're done. Don't forget to reset the oil life indicator by switching on the ignition. depressing the accelerator to the floor 3 times within 10 seconds and then switching of the ignition!
No, it should be possible, but to be honest it's really no issue- my oil light was out as quickly as if I hadn't just changed the filter. A funnel and a piece of plastic tubing would be the thing, or a little oil can like on an old steam train with the same tubingextension. The sump plug is 17 mm as well and has a washer which you might want to replace. It's at the back of the engine, so if you jack the front up it helps the flow of the oil out. A container that you can get up under the drain plug to empty the housing is best too- I used an old ice cream tub- youcouldjust let it drain into thereceptaclefor all the other oil, but itsclutteredand you'll be cleaning up for ages after. Edited by: bigiainw
...... but be very careful not to overtighten the 17mm bolt in the base of the oil filter housing. It's very easy to strip thisthread as the alloy is very soft. I had to get mine drilled out and tapped and an oversize bolt fitted. I don't touch it now when I change the oil and filter.
Hi new to captiva's bit of a learning curve with this motor only owned one for 3 weeks now a 2008 ltx 60,000 on clock ,already gotta go in for fuel gauge problems dealer ,hopefully will sort out. But have now got to replace LED indicactor on drivers mirror is this a complete unit replacement or can you get the LED part seperate.Still undecided yet if i will keep (otherhalf loves it) UH!!!
Markb, welcome to forum......but not sure why you have posted unrelated questions under caption of 'Captiva oil filter'. It helps to collate questions under same topic title.Sorry I dont have immediate answer to your LED question but there might be an answer under the search function. You might get suitable part from many of the breakers yards online.
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