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I have a 2011 Captiva LTZ - the engine management light came on about 2 months ago and has stayed on. It doesn't seem to run any different. I recently booked it into my local Jeep/Chevrolet dealers to look into this issue. They have said that the codes points to a replacement throttle body and quoting £940. I have booked it in to have more testing done. Has anybody else had this issue ?
 

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I had a code that pointed to faulty throttle body but on closer inspection inspection in turned out to be a broken wire on the connector to the throttle body it's quire a common fault as the wiring loom is too short so I soldered it back on and it's been fine since .Hope it's the same on yours but mine is a 2008 model not sure if yours is different ? Also mine didn't run any different either.Edited by: themink
 

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Replace the gasket first, bad gasket triggers the code you have discovered.
 

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PeeWee said:
I have booked it in to have more testing done. Has anybody else had this issue ?


Yes,this subject is well discussed. Go to this link:-
http://www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk/forum/engine-management-light-eml_topic5539_post27285.html?KW=throttle+body#27285

In my opinion my 'failure' was due to failed gasket drawing in additional air which was then compensated for by using more fuel to 'balance' the air. You will also see detailed photographs.

You can explore more by using the 'search tab'.

You did take out Extended Warranty - I hope ??






Edited by: Aussie Ed
 

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how easy is it to get to...to check the wiring?
 

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It's so easy to check just pull off the conecter to the throttle body and check the wiring going into the connector pull it left and right and check for snapped wires.
 

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Not sure where the throttle box is on the Series 1 Captiva but on the Series 2 it's buried half way down the back of the engine as indicated by the red arrow.




Edited by: Victor
 

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...not sure I'll even be able to see that....let alone get to it!
 

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On the series 1 it's about 25cm to the right of the dipstick , I'll have a look later to see if I've got any pictures of the failed wiring and it's location.
 

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Good photo Victor. Yes it is a bugger to get at if you are grovelling on the garage floor! That is why I got a mechanic to do it for me (plus the fact I had Warranty cover).Worth noting that the gasket is a devil to obtain. In fact the GM 'blown up' diagrams show a totally different gasket!!? Mine was/is a flat face gasket. The diagrams show an 'O' ring type of seal with location tab which sits in a groove (of which I've now got two of that are totally unsuitable for my model).

Victor; I'm impressed how you 'just happen to have' all these obscure photos.




Edited by: Aussie Ed
 

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Here is a picture of the way I found the connector on my series one captiva , it didn't effect the driving on the vehicle at all but it did show up a EML on the dash .
 

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Could you take a photo a bit further back from the connector to show the location of the thrpttle box in the engine bay?
 

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This is the location of the throttle body on my series 1 captiva where the wires snap.
 

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Yes, I know it connects with the throttle body - it is coming from the intercooler.

I've never had mines off but It looks like there is a metal bracket attached with a couple of bolts / screws that you'd have to remove as well as the clamps. Have you done this. If you have it's usually a case of muscling the duct off because the rubber can take a very tight grip.
 

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To rule out the throttle body connector check the plug with a volt meter (key in first position)

Throttle body sits mounted to the right of intake manifold front of engine on the Z20 series with a 2/3 inch intake hose running just below passenger side headlight

Gasket failure is not common on these and should not be sole cause for code


I would also check the intake pipe to the throttle body as well as everything else as a measure of good practice


All the best
 

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Hi gentlemens,thank you for the suggestions.I managed to pull out the plastic pipe from the throttle.
However, I have now another , new problem with throttle body.
After exchanging the throttle for a new one, I noticed on diagnostic tester that the throttle is constans on 16% block and when I add the full throttle the gas does not react (still 16%) - throttle body does not open and does not close.
Can it be a fault plug, currents and lack of adequate voltage that does not open / close the throttle or maybe something else?

No errors in the diagnostic tester.
The car in the city normally rises to 2-3 thousand revolutions - it is worse off on the highway - very lone at higher speeds and turnover of 3-4.5 thousand turns. is muddy.


Throttle level at slow speed: 16%
Throttle level at full speed: 16%
the same data when driving.


proper throttle behavior:
at standstill (idle) - opening level 85-90%
on full gas (4.5-5 rpm/min) - opening level 15-16%


thank you for the suggestions
Konrad



Edited by: pokrywek
 

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Konrad, If the throttle body is replaced the new one needs to be 'calibrated' to the engine and controls.I have a 'technical sheet' on this somewhere. On my 2.2 engine this instruction applied and I would think also to the 2.0 Litre engine.
I'll go and see if I can find the sheet and post it on here if I do.
 
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