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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I'm about to tackle my first DIY service on my now out of warranty Captiva. Do any of you have any experience of doing this on your own cars and if so, are there any tips you can give? I've done my own cars for many years, but the Captiva with it's remote fuel filter and canister and element oil filter are a bit out of my experience window.

Iain
 

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Me and my dad did ours last year, only problem was getting to the oil filter canister, seemed OK once the airbox and related pipes and the plastic engine cover were removed. Will be attempting the fuel filter this year when we get hold of the special tool i've been told we need.
 

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Sounds right about the fuel fillter tool, when my local garage did mine they said they had a half hour battle with it. Better get one for when I do mine next year . If you get one Dave put details on a post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've just ordered one on ebay- item no160751283571. Not here yet, but looks fairly substantial. Dave, can I take it you did the oil filter with the canister in situ? Is it just a case of taking the top off and then draining the canister, or is it more complicated than that?

Iain

Edited by: bigiainw
 

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bigiainw said:
Is it just a case of taking the top off and then draining the canister,

Yes, that's what we did, just got all the muck out and gave the lid and the canister a good clean, no problems so far. Don't forget to do accelerator pedal procedure after you've finished to reset the oil change timer/counter, I think it's igniton on, accelerator the the floor then off, 3 times in a row within 10 seconds. We also did the air and pollen filter, brake pads, brake fluid and clutch fluid.

Thanks for the Ebay item info, the BluePrint one is the one I was told i'd need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nearly right Dave, it's ignition on, accelerator to the floor 3 times in 10 secs, ignition off. Or was that what you meant?

It's only the fuel filter that scares me, and only cause it's so buried at the back of the engine bay. My tool arrived to day and it looks the business. I've already done the brake pads all round. Next major joboutsideof theserviceis to check the handbrake- it feels like it's better on one side than the other. I did the front courtesy lamp mod from the Orlando thread at the weekend too- a doddle and it looks quite funky too.

After that it's the LTZ foglamp and central grills in the bumper with the chrome inserts- they're currently winging their way from Korea!
 

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Yep, I went off the manual instructions at the time. If I recall correctly one of the reservoirs needs removing to get to it, and maybe more after that, let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will do- you may well hear the swearing where you are!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, that was a task and a half.

Oil change and air filter were no hassle- done in 3/4 of an hour. The fuel filter is another matter entirely however.

The clearances are so tight and the fuel pipe clips so fiddly it took the best part of 2 hours.

The flexible hose from the air cleaner assembly which runs down the back of the engine to the turbo needs to come off. Not a huge job, but a wee bit fiddly to get a socket on the hose clip, which seems to be different to every other hose clip on the car at 7mm (the others are all 6mm).

With that out of the way, disconnect the big wiring connector attached to the from the the fuel filter housing mount, to get it out of the way. Disconnect the wiring connector from the top of the housing itself and try not to lose it down the back of the bracket, it's a bitch to get back up.

Next, unclip the fuel filter housing from the mount by sliding it upwards. This will give you false hope as it comes off easily. The small amount of extra room it gives is crucial to getting the fuel pipes off of the housing, which is the next stage.

The pipes have blue clips, both sides of which need to be depressed at the same time to let the pipe be taken off. Except that you can't see or feel one side of them and have to do it by ESP. I managed it eventually. Take the top pipe off first as if you remove the bottom one first, as I did, you end up with everything covered in diesel. With the pipes eventually off ( I did swear more times than I care to recall) you need to swivel the housing round in the bracket about a 1/6th of a turn so that neither fuel inlet or outlet is pressing against the bulkhead, but allowing the water bleed screw housing which sticks out in the same direction, catches the bracket and won't allow it to be pulled up. You need to push the metal A/C pipe back above the filter and then just brute force it out. Last thing is to remove the wiring plug from the bottom of the canister as you pull it up through the bracket once it's free.


I did try to move the expansion tank to give better access, but even with it all freed off, it doesn't really want to go, so I put it back.

I then went to use the new filter replacement tool that i bought, to find that the filter canister doesn't fit the cup part. The bleed screw mentioned before is 180 degrees from where the tool thinks it should be. Thank goodness for the old B&D workmate- used that instead and the top part of the tool fits. The top bit is invaluable though and I doubt it would have been very easy to remove without it.

The filter that was in the car was all but destroyed. I seriously doubt that it was changed at the last service 12 months ago. It seemed to be starting to break down and was black like sump oil.

Putting the filter back in, having got it out, was much easier- took about 20 min to be able to start the car. Just remember to bleed the filter by switching theignitionon without starting for 10 x 10 sec bursts before attempting to start the car.

So all done bar the pollen filter, which I'll do tomorrow. It's a bitch of a job, but because of that I'll be doing it again next year as I wouldn't trust a garage to do it as they're likely not to bother. I just need a bigger sheet of cardboard to protect the drive next time. Sorry dear!
 

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It sounds as though you and i bought the same tool. I posted a negative reply to the seller. "tool DK85502". stating the same problem. They replied saying they had sold hundreds of these tools and had never had any complaints. I take it that all captiva diesel fuel filters are the same.I had to modify my tool to accept the filter bowl. Problem being you end up with a weakend receptacle which i suppose at some time is going to fail. Strengthend mine with large jubilee clip. maybe "BLUEPRINT" reads this forum and can come up with a modified recepticle. Otherwise DIY was quite painless. I used a large syringe to suck most of the old oil out of the oil filter housing before removing the drain plug saved a **** of lot of spillage.Only problem I had was the small white locking rings on the fuel hoses kept popping out when fuel pressure was applied. Got them to sit eventually.
 

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As i am in discussion with the seller regarding this tool i was wondering if any other forum members have bought this tool and have the same problem? Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Tool Blueprint ADK85502 (Fuel Filter Removal Tool)
 

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I have this tool chevvy my problem is the same as The Big Fella ,my water drain is 180 degrees out from where the tool thinks it should be.Are there any other menmbers who have encountered the same problem?
 

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Just a quickie, does anyone know the socket size that fits the oil filter cap for a 2007 2.0D Captiva? I didn't make a note last time I did mine and it was a borrowed socket so need to borrow the same one again (or buy one!).
 

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I bought the sameBlueprint ADK85502 tool and it has the same issue as previous posts, had to use a workmate to hold the filter housing instead. My filter housing had a connector on the bottom of it but nothing connected to it and no connector nearby, does anybody know what that bottom connector port is for ?

I decided to remove the battery, fuse box and black metal filter housing bracket for better access to everything.
 

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Bolton connectors for water indicating diesel engine cars only
 
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