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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, now my DPF light has come on, which I dont think is a problem, just need to run for 15 mins at 50Kph according to the handbook to burn off the soot...


However, my engine light has been on again, showing a P02E1 code, which I descirbed on another thread.... Short story here, looks like a need a knew ERG valve, as it was cleaned last week, but has come on again. So suspect a "sticky" valve.



Back to the question.... Anyone think the Engine Light is on because of the DPF or is a sticking ERG valve likely to have caused the DPF to light as it is probably throwing out more "dirty stuff" than usual.



Also, the handbook is not clear on the DPF light. Mine has come on and flashes. Is that the norm signal, or is flashing (like other indicators) telling me there is a fault with it.



It is in the garage, being fixed, but I really like to have an idea before the mechanics blind me with science. Although, must say, dont go to the dealers anymore (now out of warranty) I take it to a local independant garage I know, who I trust entirely....but I still like to have an understanding .
 

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This happened to me when we went for a holiday last weekend from brighton to cardiff return and done 400 miles. Not used the car til yesterday, after travelling 4 miles the DPF and ENGINE lights turned on. Unfortunately my local garage shuts up noontime so I have no where to go. My next door neighbor who is a mechanic told me that if the DPF lights is on the engine light will go on as well. So saying that it might not be connected to the ERG valve. He advised me to just dash it over down the motorway for 15 min and if the lights turns off well and good but if not consult my dealer for it is still under warranty. Im not so sure if this problem is still covered. But I personally think that I should have my car booked to be safe.
 

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My DPF light flashes when it is on, this lasts for about 15 minutes 10 miles. The Engine light does not come on at the same time, however I have had 2 incidences of the engine light coming on. The first time it went ut itself the second time it had to get a dealer reset. The DPF light does not mean that there is anything wrong, only that it is cleaning itself!
 

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I've had my Captiva nearly a year and haven't seen the DPF light except when I first put the ignition on! Am I just lucky perhaps?
 

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bigiainw said:
I've had my Captiva nearly a year and haven't seen the DPF light except when I first put the ignition on! Am I just lucky perhaps?
Me neither. I dont think its anything to do with luck just more likely your vehicle is operating correctly and the regen process is working efficently.

Edited by: TeeJay
 

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At KL Richards. Did you mean the DPF and the (MIL) malfungtion indication lamp is turning on? Is the engine light and the MIL just the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
iceman, no, I have 2 problems.....


1. The MIL light illuminated a while back, the code given was P02E1. This seemed to be the EGR (say seemed as the saga continues....).



2. The DPF light came on a few days after the MIL. I was wondering if this was due to the EGR failure or not. The question I asked was is the DPF "blinking" the expected indicator, or does blinking mean something else, as the manual wasn't clear on this. Anyway, the DPF went out, not after 15 mins at 50mph, as the book says, but after a 400 mile round trip at 70 mph... I'm wondering if the difference was a result of the EGR valve.





Back to the EGR valve, have had it replaced, and was great for 300 miles, now the b!oody MIL is back on with the P02E1 code again... I saw the old EGR and it was really caked in black sooty sh!t, so had hoped that was the problem. Now looks like it is something else. Going in next week to try and resolve, plus replace drop links which have some play in them (large knocking on "bumpy" roads).



I like my Captiva, only done 38k, really hope this is not the start of misery, especially as it is now out of the 3 year warranty.
 

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K.L. Have they given you any idea of the price for the drop links doing, because I think mine need doing two. Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not yet Big Al. I dont go to the dealer anymore, no confidence in them. They rely on the computer far too much and have a bunch of young lads who havent a clue. Now I'm out of warranty, I go to a local garage, who has mechanics, who use the computer diagnostics as an aid to solving the problem, not as the holy grail. Saying that the EGR was a bit of a curve ball, as everything pointed to it. They did clean it up for me when the light came on initially, which was great for a while, then the problem re-occured. Which implied a "sticky" EGR. After replacing it, the MIL coming back on after a few hundred miles, implies something else....I hope its not bad.


As for the drop links, I dont know yet. I have been told they arent expensive, but aint sure what "expensive" is yet. Hope it is no more than £100 with fitting.... but that's a guess based on other internet searches.
 

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Hi All,
I was following the recent spat on the correct oil to use, andlooked upthe ACEA 3C spec. If I absorbed it all correctly, some of the tweeks to the oilwere to improve the EGR life............! So perhaps peeps with EGR problems could advise what oil they are using?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have to say I dont know...



As the only oil ever to have been put in, is a result of Servicing....



Like anyone, I can read the book and tell you what should be in there, but as I didnt pour it from the can, I have to rely on the garage using the correct grade.....
 

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Went to the dealer this morning to have the DPF and MIL checked. ON my way after travelling 12 miles my DPF indicator turned off but my MIL is still on. I thought that the problem is solved thinking that they will just reset my MIL fault. My mistake because what they have done is still to check the fault with their diagnostics and done some regen to get rid of the soot. Unfortunately this is not covered under warranty so Ive payed £86 which is not too bad. But I hope this fault will not recur in the future or else Ill be damned.
 

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Iceman I have had the DPF removed, so hopefully my light will never come on again. I have also bought a device from Genden which by using my computer will check for fault codes and will reset my engine light. It was about £80 and can be used for any car! Hopefully this will be a waste of money and I will never have to use it, however if any member in central Scotland has a problem I will reset their lights and tell them the fault code for free!
 

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Hi Evo, I'm sure I read about your dpf removal but It's late, I'm on me hols and I've drank lots so tell me (and us all) about the removal please...(again?). Was it expensive, what are the potential repurcussions....blimey is that spelt right?! etc? Cheers buddy.


Rich



ps apparently it is spelt right!
 

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To all who wan to know about DPF removal. The central part of the exhaust, houses the DPF and CAT. This part is about 3 ft long. I had a pipe made which fitted in this space. The gs pipes which are attached to the CAT and DPF were plugged, and the CAT sensor tied up out of the way. The priceof this including the manufacture of the stainless steel pipe and flanges wa £210. The car was then given an ECUreflash to stop any faulse readings from the tied up sensor. The cost of this was £150. I hope that this will be money well spent as I should not have to pay for any estra oil changes or cleaning / replacing a faulty DPF.
Although a CAT is not needed for diesel Mots this may change so I ave kept the CAT and DPF so that I can change it if required.
 
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