Was getting an annoying rumble noise at low speeds on bumpy roads, checked the suspension for play and found it on the near side anti-roll bar drop link. Was able to order one from Partco £20 + vat [they are not very substantial to say they are for a big 4x4, no wonder they are prone to failure] The top nut was easy to get off it faced outwards but the bottom nut was a bit awkward it faced inwards towards the car, could just get a ring spanner on it but no room to turn it, so left the spanner on the nut and pulled the drop bar off the ball part of the joint [as I say not very robust just popped off ] then using a pair of stillsons on the ball un-screwed the bottom fixing. The bottom ball joint was rusty and worn I think the seal had failed and let water in,the top joint was shiny and clean with no play.l
Drop bar rumble
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Had the same annoying knock myself. Got my local garage to do mine last week. £90. not bad for parts and labour, if parts cost you £20.
Ian you have a bit of a job getting a good grip of the bars the struts are a bit in the way. Drivers side was solid when giving it a good yank back and forth, but the nearsideI could just feel a very slight bit of a clunk movement, anyway it was enough all sorted now.
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My mileage is 39k, think I started hearing the knock at around 37-38k.
My car is at 34000, bars changed, both front and rear and noise has gone. Replacing the front's first, it only solved half of the rumble. The n/s/r link was duff as well. They were much more expensive on fleabay than the fronts, but got a pair, delivered from Germany for £42 inc postage. £32 + p+P each on fleabay. If anyone needs it, I'm happy to post the web link.
The rearbars themselves are a bitch to remove, a grinder and a cutting disk being the best method IMHO. The fronts have better access and the face of the ball joint has a couple of straight edges to allow a spanner to fit, rather than trying to use the internal hex/allen key to hold the joint as you loosen it. Or, as I said, there is the angle grinder...
Iain
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Edited by: bigiainw
The rearbars themselves are a bitch to remove, a grinder and a cutting disk being the best method IMHO. The fronts have better access and the face of the ball joint has a couple of straight edges to allow a spanner to fit, rather than trying to use the internal hex/allen key to hold the joint as you loosen it. Or, as I said, there is the angle grinder...
Iain
Edited by: bigiainw
I am also getting this rumbling sound. At the last MOT, the main dealer mechanic noted on his advisory that some suspension part at the front had a degree of play in it. I can't remember exactly what the part was called but seem to recall it was to do with the roll bar. I was taken aback that there would be such wear at only 24000 miles. Are cars made from biscuits these days?
In any case, I declined to have it done as they were looking for over £100 to replace just one. Are these parts also known as roll bar links or is that something else?
Can anyone provide a link to where I might buy the parts myself?
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In any case, I declined to have it done as they were looking for over £100 to replace just one. Are these parts also known as roll bar links or is that something else?
Can anyone provide a link to where I might buy the parts myself?
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Ebay, as always. I got mine from here and they were fine;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHEVROLET-CAPTIVA-2-0-D-4WD-Link-Stabiliser-/130545439177?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e651d51c9
If you need rears, there are cheaper places, but the fronts are as cheap as they get.
Iain
If you need rears, there are cheaper places, but the fronts are as cheap as they get.
Iain
Mind you I was quoted over £900 plus VAT to supply and fit a towbar when I thought in a fit of madness I might as well give the main dealer a call and see what they say so I would def. get someone else to price it if you aren`t up for doing it yourself...
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