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P200A is same as P2001 (A=1)
Read up in this article :-
P2001 OBD-II Trouble Code: NOx Trap Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2
You are on the right track but lots of possibilities.
Start with easy solutions first ie clean MAF (handle carefully - delicate component). Check air intake hoses for concealed splits.
Have you had DPF problems?
P200A Fixed
I recently commented on the forum that I had a (DTC Logged P200A-00)
I booked my 2013 Holden Captiva into the Holden Workshop to have a complete diagnostic scan done on the ECU and other modules to try to ascertain were this fault was originating from.
The scan was done with this report given;
Tested (IMRC) Actuator with Vacuum and scanner checked voltage variation from IMRC position sensor
Passed
Tested Turbo Charger Vane Actuator with Vacuum and scanner and checked voltage variation from position sensor
Passed.
Tested EGR Bypass Actuator with vacuum and scanner
Passed
Tested Vacuum solenoids for Turbocharger and (IMRC) for Vacuum leaks
Failed
Suggest replacement of both vacuum solenoids due to wear internally.

I have been clearing the P200A DTC every day for weeks but after a drive it would be back in and logged
I also mentioned I had lost Boost pressure on my VGT Turbo
Maximum used to be 36psi, when the P200A started I could only get 24 psi

I had purchased 2 new Vacuum Solenoids at around $300 Dollars Australian each.
14 Days ago I changed the solenoid on the drivers side that controls the Turbo Vanes, it took me about 1 hour to do, I cleared the P200A DTC with my scan tool and went for a drive
NO More P200A being logged, and my boost pressure increased to 30psi
I checked for codes every day but none were logged
Yesterday I decided to change the (IMRC) solenoid, this was the hardest valve to change as there is very little room to move your hands as I was reaching over the back of the motor to change it,
This valve took me 2.5 hours to change.
Checked the scanner for codes there was none, went for a drive, I now have full boost pressure at 36psi, the car runs great.
I talked to the mechanic that did the scan he mentioned that the DTC was being logged possibly due to not enough vacuum being available to the (IMRC) actuator due to solenoid valves being worn and leaking
It was not an easy job the change these 2 valves, and honestly I do not want to change another one in the near future.
My P200A fault was caused by Vacuum loss, when they did the scan the mechanic verified the actuators, wiring was all good and the reference sensors were good.
Lurchy 040521
 

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P200A Fixed
I recently commented on the forum that I had a (DTC Logged P200A-00)
I booked my 2013 Holden Captiva into the Holden Workshop to have a complete diagnostic scan done on the ECU and other modules to try to ascertain were this fault was originating from.
The scan was done with this report given;
Tested (IMRC) Actuator with Vacuum and scanner checked voltage variation from IMRC position sensor
Passed
Tested Turbo Charger Vane Actuator with Vacuum and scanner and checked voltage variation from position sensor
Passed.
Tested EGR Bypass Actuator with vacuum and scanner
Passed
Tested Vacuum solenoids for Turbocharger and (IMRC) for Vacuum leaks
Failed
Suggest replacement of both vacuum solenoids due to wear internally.

I have been clearing the P200A DTC every day for weeks but after a drive it would be back in and logged
I also mentioned I had lost Boost pressure on my VGT Turbo
Maximum used to be 36psi, when the P200A started I could only get 24 psi

I had purchased 2 new Vacuum Solenoids at around $300 Dollars Australian each.
14 Days ago I changed the solenoid on the drivers side that controls the Turbo Vanes, it took me about 1 hour to do, I cleared the P200A DTC with my scan tool and went for a drive
NO More P200A being logged, and my boost pressure increased to 30psi
I checked for codes every day but none were logged
Yesterday I decided to change the (IMRC) solenoid, this was the hardest valve to change as there is very little room to move your hands as I was reaching over the back of the motor to change it,
This valve took me 2.5 hours to change.
Checked the scanner for codes there was none, went for a drive, I now have full boost pressure at 36psi, the car runs great.
I talked to the mechanic that did the scan he mentioned that the DTC was being logged possibly due to not enough vacuum being available to the (IMRC) actuator due to solenoid valves being worn and leaking
It was not an easy job the change these 2 valves, and honestly I do not want to change another one in the near future.
My P200A fault was caused by Vacuum loss, when they did the scan the mechanic verified the actuators, wiring was all good and the reference sensors were good.
Lurchy 040521
 

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Hey Lurchy, you da man, well done sir. I often wonder about these swirl flaps as to whetehr tehy're worth all the bother. The principle is sound enough, they want to improve air swirl in the cylinder to help combustion but then along come the tree huggers and say Oh but you'll raise the combustion temperatures to the point where NOx may be formed so you need to open the EGR valve and pump in some rotten exhaust fumes to lower the combustion temperatures and that's where it all starts falling to bits.

I also wonder about those vacuum pumps on the Captiva / Antara I've never heard of one being tested. Some cars have a life limit on them, some of the Toyotas have something like 110,000 miles replacement (no repair kits available). .
Hi Victor,
I just wanted to add a bit more info on what can cause malfunction in IMRC and Turbo Vane Actuators re: P200A-00,
The vacum comes from vacum pump and feeds vacum to (Brake Booster, Vacuum solenoid for EGR bypass Valve and the 2 Vacuum solenoids on rear of engine that feeds vacum for Turbo and IMRC, before the vacuum gets to the 2 rear solenoids the vacum line goes to a reservoir (Vacuum Tank) the EGR Bypass in not connected to this tank only the 2 solenoids on rear of motor, the tank has an Inlet to the Pump (Straight Hose Fitting) and a (Right Angled Fitting) that goes to the 2 Solenoids as Vacuum supply, The Right Angle Fitting is a One-Way Valve, if the One-Way Valve goes faulty i have read on other forums it can cause P200A-00 DTC,, also the 2 solenoids wear internally because when operating with the Vacum applied they can only release Part or all of the Vacuum by letting air into the Vents on the solenoid valves (Picture with my finger), i am thinking as there is no filters on these intake vents they can over time suck in dust and moisture that can make valves wear out quicker.

1957
1958

Hey Lurchy, you da man, well done sir. I often wonder about these swirl flaps as to whetehr tehy're worth all the bother. The principle is sound enough, they want to improve air swirl in the cylinder to help combustion but then along come the tree huggers and say Oh but you'll raise the combustion temperatures to the point where NOx may be formed so you need to open the EGR valve and pump in some rotten exhaust fumes to lower the combustion temperatures and that's where it all starts falling to bits.

I also wonder about those vacuum pumps on the Captiva / Antara I've never heard of one being tested. Some cars have a life limit on them, some of the Toyotas have something like 110,000 miles replacement (no repair kits available). .
Hey Victor,
You are correct, i also have heard nothing about the Vacuum Pumps on these engines, for instance how much Vacuum do they create, is the Brake Booster Vacuum line totally separate internally in the pump from the Actuator Vacuum line EG:( 2 separate pumps in one) and like you say some only last so many Thousand Miles and no repair kits are available, they must be driven of the camshafts somehow ? Lurchy
 

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Hey Lurchy, I'm curious, are both of those Solenoids the same part number? after my mechanic did diags on my Captiva yesterday he narrowed down my power loss and P200A code to these 2 solenoids. There is a correlation difference between commanded and actual data in boost Pressure circuit and Intake manifold valve circuit.
Hi Mate,
on my Holden Captiva these solenoids had the same part number, also when i had the P200-A issue there was a DTC logged each time after i cleared the P200-A, there was no MIL at all, the IMRC (Swirl Flaps), Turbocharger Vane Actuator and EGR Valve Bypass Vacuum actuator all need good Vacuum supply, i manually tested the Swirl Flaps Vacuum actuator and Turbo Vane Actuator and EGR Valve bypass with a hand operated vacuum pump (To make sure the Vacuum diaphragms were not leaking), once i did this and all tested with no leaks i had the mechanics run a diag test on the 3 items and also to test the Vacuum solenoids (1 solenoid does turbo vanes,, the other does swirl flaps), as stated it my previous posts (all passed except the Vacuum solenoids), when i had the P200-A DTC i had loss of Turbo Boost and poor power down low RPMs, all 3 Actuators need good Vacuum and my 2 solenoids on the rear of the motor were internally worn from sucking in dust and moisture when they release part of the vacuum while operating, (these solenoid valves move thousands of times each drive you do and wear internally) then you get vacuum bypass inside them, one other item that can cause the Under-boost and Over-boost is if there are any splits in the inter-cooler to engine air feed pipes (Rubber Hoses) and these can split easily, (Boost Pressure from Captiva Turbo 2.2 is Factory set at 36PSI cut off), when i had solenoid problems i lost about 12 PSI Boost, after changing Both Solenoids my Boost came back and No More P200-A DTC, i had alot of help from other Forum members including (Aussie Ed) and (Victor) whom help steer me in the right direction, changing these two solenoids is a (Test of Mans Endurance and Patience) as i completed the task reaching over the top of the engine then down to the solenoids, there is a lot of (Go By Feel as You cannot see What You are Doing),, just a Note that since i changed those two solenoids i have Never Had the P200-A DTC again, my car runs well and have full boost pressure, (Note: when changing solenoids do not mix up the vacuum Hoses),, i hope this helps a little
warm regards
Lurchy
 

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Hi Again Continuum, ( Just a Follow up) there is also a small Vacuum reservoir tank below the two solenoids that has a One-Way Valve installed, this keeps vacuum available to the two solenoids at low RPM but does not keep vacuum for the EGR Bypass, also check vacuum hoses for splits.
Lurchy
 
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Awesome Stuff. Biiig help mate. Thank you. Noticed I wasn’t getting my moneys worth out of the revs hence paying for diagnostics. Doing live analysis at the mechanic I am missing about maybe 19 PSI. There was a full check of hoses, EGR etc all came back sweet.
To correct my last post: These are the mechanics notes: (To be clear, this was just a diagnostics booking)
“After further testing and investigation a correlation difference was found between commanded and actual data in boost Pressure circuit and Intake manifold valve circuit.
Suspected cause is faulty sensors on one or both circuits.
Part only # DP102GEN $382.00 retail (DPF sensor)
Part only # EPS-016 $186.95 retail (Exhaust Pressure Sensor)
He wasn’t too sure if the 2 different above sensors were actually the same? Or if the same part would perform both? One is OEM one is aftermarket.
Installation and testing approx 2 - 4hrs labour”

He said they were at the back of the engine and hard to get to ..better hoisting it and going up underneath and entirely replacing rather than just testing them.
Rather than second guess a member of the craft, I’m just trying to understand what I am spending my money on and if the suggested parts will actually solve the issue.
Then I see your post which is pretty much the same fish but different kettle. Your part seems to be : Boost Solenoid Valve #VS200GEN …on appearance. As you have results and the above part is compatible with my Vehicle, I am inclined to go with this option.
I wouldn’t have the patience to go over the top of the engine and down the back to replace these. I’d drive my car off the Redcliffe jetty. So I would get my mobile mechanic who does my servicing to come around and do it with his infinite patience and wisdom.
Hi Again Mate,
Hmm the parts he is talking about (EPS and DPF Sensor) don't seem to hit home with me, but (I am Not a Qualified Mech) Just a home taught one especially with this Captiva i have as there is no workshop manuals available (I think it must be Secret Squirrel ****) were workshops have all data including updates from GMH and the average home mechanic has bukleys chance of getting that info, :),,
Well mate, as you said when i had this issue i also had lost boost, engine was not responsive to the throttle at times and very low power output, i have an Autel Maxi com MK-808 scanner plug in to port under dash, it works well and i can do a stationary DPF regen at home, now back to the issue of boost and power, when the engine is started and idling the IMRC actuator pulls the flaps fully (Open) or (Closed) ,sorry but cant remember which way, if you have vacuum loss as i had with these solenoids it did not trip the MIL but puts a DTC log (P200A-00) in the ECU, i never had warning lights light on my dash, i still have both the old solenoids i replaced (Both exactly the same)
The part he said DPF sensor (is this the one that has 2 small hoses going to it, ( one hose goes Pre_DPF and one hose goes Post_DPF (This sensor calculates the amount of soot accumulation in the DPF by measuring the pressures internally. Part Numbers you show seem to be same part, refer attached pics, i would go with the solenoids if you have no luck after changing the 2 (DPF and EPS Sensors)
Lurchy
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DP102 GEN is Picture attached,
Font Auto part Machine Camera accessory Monochrome photography
 

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The DP102GEN is Holden, The EPS-016 is Delphi,, my Captiva has a mixture of GM and Delphi installed
 

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To the forum, sorry about the quote, i meant to type (Secret Squirrel Stuff) not the other one
Lurchy
 

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Thanks Aussie Ed, but I need the part number of the two vacuum solenoids
Hi Nanone, i have attached the picture of the box that one of my replacement solenoids came in, it shows the GM Part Number, now this was ordered from the Holden workshop were i live, i hope this will help a little, GM seems to source its parts everywhere
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, the Part Number should be the correct one<Lurchy
 

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Hi Nanone, i have attached the picture of the box that one of my replacement solenoids came in, it shows the GM Part Number, now this was ordered from the Holden workshop were i live, i hope this will help a little, GM seems to source its parts everywhere View attachment 2181
, the Part Number should be the correct one<Lurchy
Hey Nanone,
I followed Aussie Eds link and he is correct Nanone, that is the part number you need, both the solenoids, Turbo Vane Vac Solenoid, and IMRC Swirl Flap solenoids are the same part number, and they are a hard part to fit
Lurchy
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on the spare parts sites 25183170 says it is not compatible with Captiva 2.2 diesel awd 135 Kw
Okay Mate i will check on all part numbers for this part,,what is the part number they say is for your motor,, yours is Captiva 2012 2.2 ltr TD Diesel mate ? also Manual
 

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Then I'm confused because I believe this is a widely used component on the Cruze and Orlando as well as Captiva.
Hi Again Aussie Ed,
i am confused also and i agree 100% about this part is a generic part in all 2.2 series 2 engines, i have looked into this on the net like you have and this shows the same part for 2012 captiva 2.2 litre series 2 7 seater awd (4wd), this same part also is cited to fit some series 1, GM would not change parts on an engine from fwd (My Car FWD) to awd, the engine in my thoughts would be the same, it is only the (after engine) drive train components that change (whether its Auto or Manual) i think engine is the same, i have attached a word doc showing many different part numbers and descriptions below (All have the same caption GM 25183170), so i dunno, i am pretty positive the solenoids are the same,, best way to check is to get a scope and put it down back of engine and get a visual of part to see if it is the same,,
Lurchy
 

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