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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Sorry for first post, instant question, helping my brother in law so this isn`t my regular car forum 🤷‍♂️

I`ve tracked down a 50ma draw to the IGN 2 fuse in the bonnet but cant find a wiring diagram that matches his car (the fuse box diagram are always different). Not that i`m much good at reading wiring diagrams anyway.. Is anyone able to tell me what connects to this Fuse and any tips tricks to resolve the issue?

2008 Matiz 1L, manual with Aircon
 

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looks like on the starter system...
Slope Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel


Not sure what your trying to track down though... 50ma is a small drain and you will get ongoing drains from radios, remote locking and immobilizer systems, as they all need continuous current to do their function.
 

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Concur with your last paragraph Mark.
Chapperss doesnt actually explain what the underlying problem is which resulted in him exploring the drain, ie starting problem from depleted battery ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Concur with your last paragraph Mark.
Chapperss doesnt actually explain what the underlying problem is which resulted in him exploring the drain, ie starting problem from depleted battery ?
Correct Ed. The battery goes flat after about 4 days. All the vids i`ve checked says anything above 50ma is considered bad. I`ve checked the battery and it seems good. Holding Voltage and the Alternator is working great too. Battery is around a year old and was bought new from Halfords.

I checked against my mums Corsa and it draws 20ma at rest. If I removed IGN 2 on the Matiz it drops to 20ma. If I removed the Fuse labeled Main (right next to ign 2) it drops to zero. I swapped fused around to making sure no fuse faults. The draw with both fuses plugged in is around 70ma. I`ve removed and plugged every fuse I can and it`s only those two that make a difference at rest.

@wilkinsm Thanks for this Mark

It looks like IGN2 is always hot a goes via BRN to I/P fuse Block. I just googled I/P fuse block and that`s the instrument panel, so does that mean the speedo cluster and things?

The instrument cluster does have a fault where the displays are all jumbled and it also never turns off. I though this may be an issue so disconnected the cluster for one of my tests but it made no difference to the amps being drawn. Could it still be this that is causing the issue? If it was my car I`d have just replaced it already but as it`s my bro in law I don`t like spending his money on the off chance. Will give it a go though if we are drawing a blank here!
 

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Hi Chapperss. The reference to I/P fuse Block refers to a bank of fuses located on the righthand side of the Matiz under the dash and close to the A pillar. It should have a removable cover which shows fuse circuit protection. It could be that the current drain is due to a high resistance with fuses. It will also be possible to isolate individual circuits and monitor battery discharge rates. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Chapperss. The reference to I/P fuse Block refers to a bank of fuses located on the righthand side of the Matiz under the dash and close to the A pillar. It should have a removable cover which shows fuse circuit protection. It could be that the current drain is due to a high resistance with fuses. It will also be possible to isolate individual circuits and monitor battery discharge rates. Good luck.
Cheers Dude. I`ve already removed every fuse and it made zero difference - the only ones I couldn`t remove were these two as they were reluctant to move and didn't want to force it. Do we know what these ones link to?

 

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there is some info in the manual but don't know if it would fully trust it as its an older addition

Slope Font Parallel Rectangle Diagram


but offered in case it can assist.

The battery in the matiz is quite small (since the engine is small) and easily depleted. I have had problems before with not closing doors correctly and courtesy lights staying on that kill the battery in a surprisingly short time. The worst offender being the boot light (since its hidden when seats and upper tray in place. The relays you are looking at here are only hot when vehicle moving so unlikely to be the source of the drain. Try taking out the radio and see if that affects your reading. could be a more viable source of the drain. mine did go faulty a while back (however didnt give me power issues) and least you can run the car without a radio.

its a matter of eliminating variables one at a time till the issue is resolved. Electrical stuff is never and easy fix and always requires a lot of patience.

good luck
 

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Cheers Dude. I`ve already removed every fuse and it made zero difference - the only ones I couldn`t remove were these two as they were reluctant to move and didn't want to force it. Do we know what these ones link to?












The items identified are relays and will be fuse protected. Top one looks like rear screen heater. Bottom one is unused for daytime running lights. It looks like all the fuses fitted are at the correct rating.
A problem with Matiz wiring is the battery connectors. They stretch over time and although the bolt is tight the grip on the battery post is poor. Check that you cannot rotate the connectors.
It may be of benefit to take the vehicle to Halfords and request a check on the battery the have supplied mentioning it is discharging without use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The items identified are relays and will be fuse protected. Top one looks like rear screen heater. Bottom one is unused for daytime running lights. It looks like all the fuses fitted are at the correct rating.
A problem with Matiz wiring is the battery connectors. They stretch over time and although the bolt is tight the grip on the battery post is poor. Check that you cannot rotate the connectors.
It may be of benefit to take the vehicle to Halfords and request a check on the battery the have supplied mentioning it is discharging without use.
I've disconnected the radio fascia and checked the boot light. I`ll jump in tomorrow and completely disconnect the radio You are right about the battery being small, that`s why this drain is so impact-full. This is a relatively simple car and feel like i should have been able to identify it buy now. Still confused on what IGN 2 is supposed to be powering. Jasta if you are right and it relates to the fuse block then pulling one of those should have changed things. Now it could be the two I haven`t forced out (which looks like wiper and Cigar relay) but odds are it wont be.
 

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From the diagram IGN2 should only be hot when the car is running. It should be powering through the internal fuse box all the electrical accessories you need to drive with. If your getting a reading on it when the key is not in the ignition then maybe its a back feed from another part of the wiring or maybe there is an issue with the wiring of the ignition switch itself. Has any work been done on the car that occurred round about when this problem surfaced ? Has that battery gone completely flat at any time (ie less that 4 volts) if so it could be permanently damaged and could give a false (full charge) reading but cold crank amps are seriously reduced. How are you measuring you leak with a clamp meter or actually doing it by removing the fuse and looping in series ? Have any non standard devices been fitted that could have been looped/bridging into the wrong supply ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
From the diagram IGN2 should only be hot when the car is running. It should be powering through the internal fuse box all the electrical accessories you need to drive with. If your getting a reading on it when the key is not in the ignition then maybe its a back feed from another part of the wiring or maybe there is an issue with the wiring of the ignition switch itself. Has any work been done on the car that occurred round about when this problem surfaced ? Has that battery gone completely flat at any time (ie less that 4 volts) if so it could be permanently damaged and could give a false (full charge) reading but cold crank amps are seriously reduced. How are you measuring you leak with a clamp meter or actually doing it by removing the fuse and looping in series ? Have any non standard devices been fitted that could have been looped/bridging into the wrong supply ?
Thanks Mark. Can see that now. Did I mention being bad at reading those things :)

I`ve now pulled every fuse, connector, relay, and, piece of electronics I can easily (without removing the dash) lay my hands on and can't get this **** draw to go away. I took the surround off the steering column as wheel to unplug all the ones around the ignition and... no change.

I`m at a loss and, unless anyone has any bright ideas, going to admit defeat
 

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My thoughts take me back to the battery. Possibly 'sulphated'.
If you can borrow another battery (not necessarily the correct size) and connect it temporarily with jump leads, see how that responds over a couple of days.
 

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A standard Matiz battery in good condition with a capacity of around 35Ah will maintain a discharge of 50 milliamps for over 25 days. If a fully charge battery discharges within 4 days something else is going wrong. A battery check would would be of benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A standard Matiz battery in good condition with a capacity of around 35Ah will maintain a discharge of 50 milliamps for over 25 days. If a fully charge battery discharges within 4 days something else is going wrong. A battery check would would be of benefit.

Thank you for putting it like that! Now i`m really wondering what the **** is going on.

@Aussie Ed thank you again. I did test the battery but just for volts held after a charge, volts in from the alternator under load, and min volts when starting a cold car. All came up within acceptable ranges.

He`s coming to pick it up on Saturday so will have a word and investigate journey times and usage to see if it just doesn`t have enough time to recharge or something
 

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I am wondering if the alternator may be your problem. I have seen vids on youtube about it. Maybe you could try that guys approach to see if it finds your culprit. It could be a diode problem giving you a back draw (however think the drain would be significantly more than 50ma). But since your hitting bottom of barrel it may be worth a try.
 

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" I did test the battery but just for volts held after a charge, volts in from the alternator under load, and min volts when starting a cold car. All came up within acceptable ranges. "

The battery may have sufficient Volts but not Amps to crank.
12 volts can be achieved by linking AA batteries together to give a volt meter reading but clearly this woudnt start a car! My gut feeling is that although you have indicated the battery is not that old it could be 'knackered' for some reason ie old stock when purchased, low quality make, damaged internal plates, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
nice little vid on electric drain diagnosis. Even on a chevy spark (the matiz successor).
Yeah that is. Confirms my suspicions that 70ma is to high for the car to be drawing whilst asleep too. The spark is drawing 10/20ma in that vid. I do also think his/ battery is not in the best health, even though it`s only a year old. Going to help him get it swapped at Halfords under his their guarantee. At least he will have longer than 4 days idle time after that.
 
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