Hi and thanks for letting me join your group, I have two Holden Captiva's 2.0 diesel auto's, yep I'm from Australia, one of these is 2008 and other a 2007 been great run around cars 2008 never had any problems runs and drives great, however 2007 has it's share of problems almost to the stage of calling the local priest to perform an exorcism because no one else was game to go near it, this time it will only start if I squirt some start ya-******* into the the throttle body intake hose it will not start any other way, once it's warm it drives great but when I stop I need to squirt a little start ya-******* to get going again. I have replaced the fuel regulator, fuel filter, cam shaft sender, air filter so only minor bits I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem Can anyone help me with this problem!! Please
Help Please My Captiva won't start
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Knuckles, From your brief description it appears to be fuel/air mixture related. Do you have any stored diagnostic trouble codes if so what are they?
You dont mention if you've got exhaust smoke, if so is it - white, grey or black. EGR could be sticking and need cleaning.
The other obvious area is to thoroughly check the air supply pipes/hoses. These are known to become loose at circlips as well as splits and tears in the hoses which totally messes up the air fuel ratio. Some very old hoses have been known to soften to extent of collapsing (sucking flat) especially in warm/hot climates.
There are numerous existing discussion topics on the Forum Back Index (about ten years worth) which you can access using the Forum Advanced Search function. How to use the Forum is in the following link:-
www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk
Your Location needs entering into your Sign-Up data pane (you left location blank in Sign-up) and the vehicle info into Signature Footer because any info in a discussion page simply becomes 'lost' as discussions progress. Info in data pane & footer is always visible automatically.
Check air supply hoses and give us DIC codes.
You dont mention if you've got exhaust smoke, if so is it - white, grey or black. EGR could be sticking and need cleaning.
The other obvious area is to thoroughly check the air supply pipes/hoses. These are known to become loose at circlips as well as splits and tears in the hoses which totally messes up the air fuel ratio. Some very old hoses have been known to soften to extent of collapsing (sucking flat) especially in warm/hot climates.
There are numerous existing discussion topics on the Forum Back Index (about ten years worth) which you can access using the Forum Advanced Search function. How to use the Forum is in the following link:-
Main Message Centre
Specific vehicle models should be placed in the respective model subforums.
www.chevroletownersclub.co.uk
Check air supply hoses and give us DIC codes.
Thanks Aussie Ed for your reply, sorry for the inadequate description I had it all in my head, just didn't relay it to text. The exhaust isn't that noticeable, grey then black with a good rev but settles down and nothing noticeable under acceleration, the code thrown up was for random misfire, which I expected using the start spray, and any others that might have been I have cleared, but will keep the scanner on when I next start it. Now the lights on the dash ABS, Traction control, Air Bag and so on don't go out, even though I can drive it ok, only on the start up whether hot or cold it needs the spray, once it's going runs ok just won't start, I thought maybe glow plugs, fuel pump?Knuckles, From your brief description it appears to be fuel/air mixture related. Do you have any stored diagnostic trouble codes if so what are they?
You dont mention if you've got exhaust smoke, if so is it - white, grey or black. EGR could be sticking and need cleaning.
The other obvious area is to thoroughly check the air supply pipes/hoses. These are known to become loose at circlips as well as splits and tears in the hoses which totally messes up the air fuel ratio. Some very old hoses have been known to soften to extent of collapsing (sucking flat) especially in warm/hot climates.
There are numerous existing discussion topics on the Forum Back Index (about ten years worth) which you can access using the Forum Advanced Search function. How to use the Forum is in the following link:-
Your Location needs entering into your Sign-Up data pane (you left location blank in Sign-up) and the vehicle info into Signature Footer because any info in a discussion page simply becomes 'lost' as discussions progress. Info in data pane & footer is always visible automatically.Main Message Centre
Specific vehicle models should be placed in the respective model subforums.
Check air supply hoses and give us DIC codes.
A poor electrical connection to injectors could cause misfire effect. Difficult start could be glow plugs. Fuel pump - maybe but I would expect that to be noticeable in general running also. Poor starting has so many possibilities you really have to work though possibilities systematically.
Have a read through similar Topics using the Forum Index Search function. Very often a quest and lots of patience! Stored Codes may help.
.
Have a read through similar Topics using the Forum Index Search function. Very often a quest and lots of patience! Stored Codes may help.
.
Sounds like your 12v in-tank fuel pump isn't working. When starting, the 12v pump supplies fuel at around 40 to 60 psi to the injection pump. Once started, the 12v pump cuts out and the transfer pump takes over. The 12v fuel pump is on a timer circuit and should run for about 30 seconds to 1 minute after switching on. It's unusual to have any trouble with the timer circuitry and, although it's usually a long-lived item, it's usually the pump itself.
Many thanks, I'll scroll through the forum and start the car, hope it produces some codes
Thanks Victor for your input, where would be the best place to check pump pressure, I can hear it running for about 10 to 15 sec maybe a little longer after switching on. Does this pump prime the injectors? or just the line from tank to injection pump, cause when I switch on and the tank pump starts wiring away and I crack the supply line to the injector there is nothing, when I spray the start spray in and it starts then there's lots of fuel under good pressure, it would appear that at the time of cranking there is no fuel in the injector rail, I don't know much about cars, but it seems that the problem is in this area, no fuel in the rail or injector line at cranking no start, would love to hear any suggestion's. Thanks in advance for your time and effort
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