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2013 Holden captiva Diesel 2.2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
Need advice with Holden captiva 2013 diesel. I drove to market and was perfect running. On way back tried starting its engine crank and seems starting fraction of second and then something is cutting engine compression. Diagnosed by two mechanics but nothing mechanical fault. Fuel pump, fues etc ok. And no code thrown in scan also.
Need help if anyone been into same situation, as car is brand new has only done 95000km. Was running perfect before.
 

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It tried to start and after that seems that you have no fuel anymore. Did you checked if the fuel gets to the injectors? You have only to unscrew a little the nut from one injector and see if diesel is pushed out by the high pressure pump. After this check at least you can follow the fuel path and check the high pressure pump, low pressure pump etc.
 

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2013 Holden captiva Diesel 2.2
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It tried to start and after that seems that you have no fuel anymore. Did you checked if the fuel gets to the injectors? You have only to unscrew a little the nut from one injector and see if diesel is pushed out by the high pressure pump. After this check at least you can follow the fuel path and check the high pressure pump, low pressure pump etc.
Thanks for suggestions, yes fuel is on on injectors. My mechanic already checked that but he is not able to diagnose the electronic fault. He finds nothing wrong mechanically.
 

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I've heard of issues with the key detection especially for the cars with keyless entry. Do you have any warning on the dash regarding the key missing? If you have the version with LCD between speedometer and tachometer it is written, if you have the version with the coolant temperature then you have the red LED.
 

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2013 Holden captiva Diesel 2.2
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've heard of issues with the key detection especially for the cars with keyless entry. Do you have any warning on the dash regarding the key missing? If you have the version with LCD between speedometer and tachometer it is written, if you have the version with the coolant temperature then you have the red LED.
Its 2013 model one with collant temperature in middle. Would you elaborate where i can see red led please. Or what type of sign it is?
 

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I have the version without the coolant temperature gauge. The red LED is the one that blinks when the car is stopped and key is out. When you put the key in contact and turn to "ignition", but not start the car, then the red LED should be OFF, at least this is how it was on my previous car, a Chevy Epica. Someone with the same dash as yours can confirm. If the key cannot be read then the red LED will remain permanently ON.

Try with the spare key if you have one. Also if you have an aftermarket alarm, you can try to disable it.
 

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Hi everyone,
Need advice with Holden captiva 2013 diesel. I drove to market and was perfect running. On way back tried starting its engine crank and seems starting fraction of second and then something is cutting engine compression. Diagnosed by two mechanics but nothing mechanical fault. Fuel pump, fues etc ok. And no code thrown in scan also.
Need help if anyone been into same situation, as car is brand new has only done 95000km. Was running perfect before.
Hey mate, just wondering what was the outcome, I have one in the shop at the moment doing the exact same thing.
cheers
 

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Afternoon from the UK.

+1 with the same problem, so will be keeping a close eye on this thread along with searching the archives.

A couple of weekends ago, the wife simply popped out to grab a few groceries. Got there but couldn't get back, car not starting just like the above info and clip. She'd done a few trips that weekend too, with no signs of trouble or oddities. It's a 2012 manual and is slowly approaching 65,000 miles. It's a town card but does stretch its legs once in a while.

No codes and our favoured garage thought the timing may have jumped if the chain was loose, but it hasn't and it's not. And apparently the compression is down to 10 psi. Removing the inlet manifold has revealed nothing and they've said it's now time to strip apart and go inside - but have suggested a replacement engine would be quicker and cheaper.

Time to trawl to see what others have endured like this and possible root causes to check / cross off the list!

Jonty.
 

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Afternoon from the UK.

+1 with the same problem, so will be keeping a close eye on this thread along with searching the archives.

A couple of weekends ago, the wife simply popped out to grab a few groceries. Got there but couldn't get back, car not starting just like the above info and clip. She'd done a few trips that weekend too, with no signs of trouble or oddities. It's a 2012 manual and is slowly approaching 65,000 miles. It's a town card but does stretch its legs once in a while.

No codes and our favoured garage thought the timing may have jumped if the chain was loose, but it hasn't and it's not. And apparently the compression is down to 10 psi. Removing the inlet manifold has revealed nothing and they've said it's now time to strip apart and go inside - but have suggested a replacement engine would be quicker and cheaper.

Time to trawl to see what others have endured like this and possible root causes to check / cross off the list!

Jonty.
Is it 10psi for all cylinders or just for one?
 

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Is it 10psi for all cylinders or just for one?
Hi Victor,

They just said it's only making 10psi. They didn't mention a particular pot was off so presumably each one is in the 10psi zone. But this is the sort of thing I want to start detailing now, along with "have you checked this, can you check that..." given some more experienced Captiva/Chevy-ness than what I know.

Best,

Jonty.
 

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You’d be looking at something like a broken camshaft would take all cylinders down to 10psi compression on an engine that was previously running quite well and only done 65k-ish miles.

If it’s only one cylinder that’s down on compression then I’d suspect a hole burnt in a piston or one of the valves (inlet or exhaust) stuck open or maybe the head dropped off one of them. Broken valve spring(s) is another possibility. The 2.2 engine isn’t prone to any of these, the 2 litre engine had a history of snapping off the tappet fingers but it’s a different arrangement.

I’d certainly ask then to take off the camshaft covers and have a look at the valve gear but if there’s nothing obvious then they may be right about getting a second hand engine. A mechanic can investigate things in his own time but when you’re paying garage labour rates, and considering the cost/availability of any engine spares required, it rapidly becomes uneconomical.
 

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Hi Victor,

Many, many thanks for this extremely useful input. It's very much appreciated. Will be having a follow-up chat with the garage tomorrow and will offer this.
 
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