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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
Thank you for this forum and for all your helps.
I suspect problems with my EGR valve (140000 kms). To disassemble it, I would like to take advantage of your method to avoid making a mistake.
I see that there are 3 6-piece bolts to remove. Is there anything else before I start?
Thank you so much
 

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Boubker, You only say 'suspect problems with EGR valve'. Before going down the removal/clean route have you carried out elimination tests, or to word it another way what symptoms or DTC codes have you got that makes you think it is EGR?
Check here first: https://www.micksgarage.com/blog/does-your-egr-valve-need-replacing

EGR is often difficult to access remove because of its position, the proximity of EGR cooler and other pipework in the way.

I have previously posted TIS data link which you can explore for most aspects of work on the Captiva. This link can be found here:-
TIS Chevrolet Captiva (??????? ???????)

You will need patience to explore the TIS because it is a vast document.

This Forum also has a 'Search' function which can be informative reading. Go to Tools> Advanced Search.

Finally as this is a Worldwide forum it is courteous to complete your 'Location' in your sign up. We have no idea where you are located other than you refer to Kms and not miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks to Aussie Ed for his answer.
In fact, my dysfunction lamp is switched ON since one month. A garage (personally, I don’t have a diagnostic device !) has forced a DPF regen. The lamp switched OFF during 2 days. And now, my car is in degraded mode with dysfunction lamp switched ON.
So I thought, by elimination, to do the simple things myself that don’t cost much: clean my EGR valve... if it's easy to do it!
Thank you for your help.
 

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Boubker, from your report that a forced regeneration appeared to improve the situation (ie lamp off) I would build on that and try further cleaning of DPF by purchasing a bottle/canister of DPF cleaner (which ever brand you can locate in Morocco) add to your fuel tank and giving the vehicle several good 'hot runs' at 2500 to 3000 rpm for 25-30 minutes each. There is the possibility that the DPF may be beyond its serviceable life.

In respect of EGR cleaning the EGR this probably sensible considering the mileage (kms) but I dont think the EGR is cause of the lamp.
EGR usually has related smoking exhaust issues. Clean it and see if it offers any progress.
 

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Hello,
Thank you for this forum and for all your helps.
I suspect problems with my EGR valve (140000 kms). To disassemble it, I would like to take advantage of your method to avoid making a mistake.
I see that there are 3 6-piece bolts to remove. Is there anything else before I start?
Thank you so much
Hi Boubker
Have you got this sorted? I have same problem on my 2014 Captiva 2.2, I have removed all three hex bolts, but couldnt take it out. I tried pull it from top, drag it, but it just not moving... Since i got engine check light on my dashboard, i just noticed it has big noisy around 60km/h and 2000/min rpm, I am not sure if its from the egr valve, but thats the only faulty code i got from OBD II, so im thinking to clean first.
 

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Hi Boubker
Have you got this sorted? I have same problem on my 2014 Captiva 2.2, I have removed all three hex bolts, but couldnt take it out. I tried pull it from top, drag it, but it just not moving... Since i got engine check light on my dashboard, i just noticed it has big noisy around 60km/h and 2000/min rpm, I am not sure if its from the egr valve, but thats the only faulty code i got from OBD II, so im thinking to clean first.

Run1985, Removal of the EGR and its associated cooler tubes & pipes nearby is not simply the loosening of three bolts. I actually had mine done whilst in the dealers for another issue so I got them to do the EGR at the same time.
You mention 'thats the only fauty code I got from OBDII' but I cant see that you've informed us what the code was? Remember that generic code readers may not be able to read all GM codes, some require dedicated GM code readers to identify the code(s).
Symptoms of faulty EGR valve can be many and varied. Black smoke is usually a good indicator but there are others such as but not necessarily all :-
Your engine has a rough idle. ...
Your car has poor performance. ...
You have increased fuel consumption. ...
Your car frequently stalls when idling. ...
You can smell fuel. ...
Your engine management light stays on. ...
Your car produces more emissions. ...
You hear knocking noises coming from the engine.

You havent told us what mileage your vehicle has travelled nor what type of journey the vehicle is predominantly used for. This sort of information is helpful in diagnostic considerations.

As for removal of the EGR if you read in detail the previous posts below you will see that I provided comments and the Technical TIS link. If your read my post dated 07.02.2019 much of what is mentioned there is applicable to your situation.

You also refer to Kms in your post but you have left your 'location' blank in your Sign Up therefore as a Worldwide forum readers have no idea what-so-ever where in the world you are.
Helpful to know. Go to Tools>Quicklinks>Edit Your Details.

.
 

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Let me see if I manage put the workshop instructions here. ( usually they are rubbish but good for guidelines)
 

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Hello,
Thank you for this forum and for all your helps.
I suspect problems with my EGR valve (140000 kms). To disassemble it, I would like to take advantage of your method to avoid making a mistake.
I see that there are 3 6-piece bolts to remove. Is there anything else before I start?
Thank you so much
Did you manage to remove the EGR?
 

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I want to go throught the same procedure with removing and cleaning the EGR and I've been searching for some guide... like pictures or youtube video, I even looked at some russian forum but I still can't manage to find anything. I know how to clean it, I did that on my previous car many times, but I am not sure about the removing. It would be great if somebody with experience post some pictures here.
 

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I want to go throught the same procedure with removing and cleaning the EGR and I've been searching for some guide... like pictures or youtube video, I even looked at some russian forum but I still can't manage to find anything. I know how to clean it, I did that on my previous car many times, but I am not sure about the removing. It would be great if somebody with experience post some pictures here.
This is the one million dollar question. We know that it is held by three screws but it is a $$%%$£! To take it off.
 

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This is the one million dollar question. We know that it is held by three screws but it is a $$%%$£! To take it off.
You are quite correct GCM.
Whilst the EGR may only be held by three bolts it seems that it is all the nearby ancillary items around it which causes the problem. The associated air cooler to the EGR is one of them. The limited space to access these components in the modern 'compact' engine adds to the difficulty.

I had my EGR cleaned by my dealer while they were replacing the throttle body (under warranty) only to find out that there was actually nothing wrong with the throttle body at all - all that had failed was the throttle body gasket seal !

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I want to go throught the same procedure with removing and cleaning the EGR and I've been searching for some guide... like pictures or youtube video, I even looked at some russian forum but I still can't manage to find anything. I know how to clean it, I did that on my previous car many times, but I am not sure about the removing. It would be great if somebody with experience post some pictures here.
Thats funny, I can find plenty of stuff on Youtube etc that shows how to remove EGR valves.
 

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Thats funny, I can find plenty of stuff on Youtube etc that shows how to remove EGR valves.
HI Victor. Did you find any with Antara or Captiva? I even tried to find in German ( opel antara egr ventil ausbauen) no luck! :(
 

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HI Victor. Did you find any with Antara or Captiva? I even tried to find in German ( opel antara egr ventil ausbauen) no luck! :(
I had a link saved but can't find it at the mo'. Think I searched under the A22DM engine (163ps) or the A22DMH (184ps) but they're also know as Z22 engines. Never had to do mines (yet) but there's very few of these EGR valves are a day at the beach to remove, generally they've done a fair mileage so they're well carboned in and they're often obstructed by exhaust ducts or pipes - nobody ever said it was easy. So long as you remove the hex-headed bolts from the flange and not the phillips screws which hold the stepper motor to the mechanical part of the valve then treat it a bit rough with a bit of penetrant and it will come out.

If and when I do mines I'll be looking into either blanking it off completely or fitting a restrictor plate to cut down the EGR flow. Nasty horrible exhaust gases mixed with oily engine fumes getting fed down the inlet manifold all in the name of the tree huggers who want to save the planet. Have you seen the latest? they want to ban meat products - so the population can starve just so they can have their carbon zero enviro. Yeah right!
 
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