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Mine is series 2, built in 2013.
The picture with the red circles shows the place where a reinforcement bar is placed, that must be removed prior to exhaust removal.
The figure 1 I think shows how to remove the bracket for the back engine mount, the one that goes to the chassis/ subframe.
That pic with C7A12C13 shown in it is straight out of the TIS manual for the Series 1 Captiva.
They never did crack one for the Series 2.
 

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Is it not possible to change the other two main bearings in-situ? At 9:28 it clearly shows the bearings at what I call the outboard end of the transfer box's input and output shafts. Wouldn't imagine it would be too hard to use a bearing puller to remove them. At the very least you should be able to carefully examine them using, say, a 10x magnifying glass to see if there are any pits, cracks etc in them.
1325
 

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Is it not possible to change the other two main bearings in-situ? At 9:28 it clearly shows the bearings at what I call the outboard end of the transfer box's input and output shafts. Wouldn't imagine it would be too hard to use a bearing puller to remove them. At the very least you should be able to carefully examine them using, say, a 10x magnifying glass to see if there are any pits, cracks etc in them.
View attachment 1325

I see what you mean! I could just take the half part and have them to re-bore the case. But I could not trust myself on the bearings as I have never done before. I would rather have the professionals doing it as I cant afford a brand new transfer case
 

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Mine had a lot of play, you could move up-down, left-right the bearing with ~4mm. Anyway I suggest to take the whole transfer case out and go with it to the repair shop, it should be easier. Also, ask the repair shop to take special care at all sealings, some are hard to be found.
 
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Mine had a lot of play, you could move up-down, left-right the bearing with ~4mm. Anyway I suggest to take the whole transfer case out and go with it to the repair shop, it should be easier. Also, ask the repair shop to take special care at all sealings, some are hard to be found.

Yep!

That is what I will do. I have also printed the transfer case diagram and will leave with them.
 

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Mission accomplished!
I will drop the transfer box int the shop on Tuesday!

It was a pain to get the screw from inside the engine mount ( middle arrow number two)

It would have been 10x easier if you remove or at least loose the 3 bolts from the middle engine mount!

I could not get any to my tools to latch on them. I lost my patience and wiggled the bracket like crazy ( and hit it a bit with a pry bar)
It is doable as the bracket moves up high enough and the transfer box comes loose.

Once you wiggle the transfer case our the bracket will easily come out!


I wish I had a lift! This whole job would have taken me just a couple of hours! :(

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Well done for getting that transfer box out, no mean feat when you don't have a ramp to work on.
re that difficult bolt on the engine mount can you get a flex socket on it to turn?
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I did have to use one of the above and buy an extension.

It is difficult to find the right position to connect the ratchet, but just besides the middle motor mount there is a hose that you can lift a bit and put the extension through it
It was a dry day and the wind was not blowing everything away. (thankfully!)

Las week I could not even see the bolt even with my spotlight on it.
 

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I did have to use one of the above and buy an extension.

It is difficult to find the right position to connect the ratchet, but just besides the middle motor mount there is a hose that you can lift a bit and put the extension through it
It was a dry day and the wind was not blowing everything away. (thankfully!)

Las week I could not even see the bolt even with my spotlight on it.
Yep, you could hardly have picked a worse time of the year to do it what with storm Ciera and Jorge not to mention the Corona virus et al - they must breed us tough here in the UK.

So how difficult is it to seperate the transfer box from the rest of the transmission? And how heavy is it once it's out? Is it surprisingly light or heavy?
 

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It has ~28 kg packed if I remember well from the transportation documents. So at least 25kg without packaging. It is really heavy.
I received yesterday the 4 bearings that were bad on my transfer box - from the intermediate shaft and the input shaft (marked with red in picture bellow).
There are 3 NTN bearings and one Nachi, all theoretically equivalents to the original ones that were made by SKF. The total cost for all 4 bearings was equivalent of 125 Euro, so not cheap.

I hope that they will fit, but first I have to buy 2 seals - no. 4, no. 5 and no. 22 in the picture. If someone can give me the code for no. 4 and no. 5 it would be great, I could not find them. Thanks!


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Yep, you could hardly have picked a worse time of the year to do it what with storm Ciera and Jorge not to mention the Corona virus et al - they must breed us tough here in the UK.

So how difficult is it to seperate the transfer box from the rest of the transmission? And how heavy is it once it's out? Is it surprisingly light or heavy?


Once you get the F$$£%$$ Bracket off is very easy. You literally slide if off from the transmission.
I put one of glove and rubber band on the transmission hole to protect it from the elements.

I must be stronger than Ches ( no offence Ches!) I thought it was lighter than it looks!
I put it in a vegetable box. Attached to push bike from work. And pushed it all the way to the shop this morning.

They say they will open it and check it and give me call.
 

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I hope that they will fit, but first I have to buy 2 seals - no. 4, no. 5 and no. 22 in the picture. If someone can give me the code for no. 4 and no. 5 it would be great, I could not find them. Thanks!


[/QUOTE]


I found in a site and printed
 

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Just be aware that the USA Captiva Sport was 'built' in Mexico. There are some engine differences but I'm unsure of the transfer box origin on the 'Sport' variant. It may or may not be same as the Korean build.
 

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Update!

Shop called me this afternoon and said that all bearings are fubar and the main shaft and gears were damaged as well. That would take lots of part to get it in good condition and suggested to buy a used one to replace it!

I can't be bothered to ignore their expertise and find another transmission repair shop and stay without the car for any longer as I need it to work.

I bit the bullet and bought a new one from these guys:


Best price in UK after the price has gone up.

Looking on the "bright side" I don't have to pay anyone to put it back. And when my clutch needs doing I am half way comfortable with the job!

I will get some pictures of the damage and see if is worthy to "Ches" :) my way on it repair it myself and sell it. ( doubt it)
I did email the shops from Ebay directly and they just offered 5% discount £1329.99
 
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Just be aware that the USA Captiva Sport was 'built' in Mexico. There are some engine differences but I'm unsure of the transfer box origin on the 'Sport' variant. It may or may not be same as the Korean build.
Hi Aussie ed;


I did some research and the transfer case getrag 760 was used in several models. Internally should be the same. The main difference is the type of brackets used on different engines
 

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I found in a site and printed
Thanks a lot gcmarcal, I have found by code and ordered the seals, I will pick them myself from the shop to check the new ones against the old ones. The total cost for all #4, #5, #22 and #21 was ~65 Euro. So together with the 4 bearings the cost would be <200 Euro, which is quite good.

Please take a picture with the gears so I can see the damage, I will show the pictures to the mechanical engineer that helped me with mine. If the bearings have not felt apart, I would say that the gears have minimum damage.

My only concern now is that I have some big shims that are a little damaged and I don't know where I should put them. I suspect that they are place between the aluminium case and the outer case of the roller bearings. Maybe you can catch that in your picture :)
 
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Yes! I will take pictures. Maybe if we Frankstein all the transfer cases broken in one! ;)
 

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My only concern now is that I have some big shims that are a little damaged and I don't know where I should put them. I suspect that they are place between the aluminium case and the outer case of the roller bearings. Maybe you can catch that in your picture :)
I'd be very surprised if they went between the aluminium case and the bearing cup - they usually go between the gear shaft and the bearing cone.

Shims placed in the housing would prevent the bearing cup from fully seating so they would not be properly supported and it could lead to them spinning.
 

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Yes, I didn't observed the shims at first, so I don't know exactly where they go, I just assumed they were spacers between aluminium and bearing case. But it is quite possible that I am wrong.
It would be great if the pictures from gcmarcal will solve the mystery. I have only 3 shims and 4 bearings so either they've lost one of them, either it was missing...
 

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Yes, I didn't observed the shims at first, so I don't know exactly where they go, I just assumed they were spacers between aluminium and bearing case. But it is quite possible that I am wrong.
It would be great if the pictures from gcmarcal will solve the mystery. I have only 3 shims and 4 bearings so either they've lost one of them, either it was missing...
They shipped my part. So if I get it on Friday I will have my card running this weekend. Then I would have to pick up the old transfer case from the shop sometime next week.
 
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