Chevrolet Owners Club banner
1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My CV joint / axle is shut!

I am starting to agree with Scotty Kilmer that some cars when they reach 100k miles they start falling apart crying:


 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,992 Posts
GC, Finding the cause is progress but the cost of repair is unfortunate.
At 96,000 miles you are heading quickly into the 'everything starts to fail' area. Time to consider selling?
If you want a superb replacement I have a 2012 with not quite 31,000 miles which we are no longer needing (distance travel is now in motorhome). Full service history, immaculately maintained. MOT until Jan 2021, Extended Warranty until 31 Dec 2020.
If you want to come and inspect Norwich to Bury St Eds is about 45-50 minutes or I can come to you.
PM me if interested.
Ed
 
  • Like
Reactions: gcmarcal

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
GC, Finding the cause is progress but the cost of repair is unfortunate.
At 96,000 miles you are heading quickly into the 'everything starts to fail' area. Time to consider selling?
If you want a superb replacement I have a 2012 with not quite 31,000 miles which we are no longer needing (distance travel is now in motorhome). Full service history, immaculately maintained. MOT until Jan 2021, Extended Warranty until 31 Dec 2020.
If you want to come and inspect Norwich to Bury St Eds is about 45-50 minutes or I can come to you.
PM me if interested.
Ed
Thanks Ed. Yours is nice but is way beyond my financial means at the moment.

The passenger side was solid!

Took the car this morning to Halfrauds for a free quotation and check. Mentioned that my CV joint could be the culprit. They told me that the knocking is from the drop links! Which is utter nonsense as I have replaced them YESTERDAY!!!


Can you guys give any suggestions? I will take to a local garage and have them test drive as I doubt halfrauds did! ( actually I could just watch my dash cam footage! lol)grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you compare with the other side?
Joints on axel usually have a play to be able to adjust distance when mounting.
There was no play on the other side! Seemed very rigid and there are no noises on the passenger side!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
Was your Captiva built before 24.10.2012?

As looked through the parts catalogue and seems Captiva Series 2 had a few changes after this date with part numbers.

Also seems now that the complete drive shaft is now sold as a kit compared to individual parts when Captiva was in production.

Scotty Kilmer is a character on YouTube, honest and to the point..
 
  • Like
Reactions: gcmarcal

·
Registered
T250 2dr. 1.2 lpg
Joined
·
528 Posts
The only problem with Scotty Kilmer is that if we are to believe all he says, then automotive development peaked in 1995 with the Toyota Celica, and has been in decline ever since.
He is clearly wrong, it peaked when Peugeot came up with the 406 Coupe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gcmarcal

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was your Captiva built before 24.10.2012?

As looked through the parts catalogue and seems Captiva Series 2 had a few changes after this date with part numbers.

Also seems now that the complete drive shaft is now sold as a kit compared to individual parts when Captiva was in production.

Scotty Kilmer is a character on YouTube, honest and to the point..
I am pretty sure she is pre oct 2010 (Colour
Silver
Fuel type
Diesel
Date registered
27 September 2012)


I found the part on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-CHEVROLET-CAPTIVA-2-0-2-4-DRIVE-SHAFT-OFF-SIDE-CV-JOINT-2006-ONWARDS/132242620668

Reference OE/OEM Number_1: 4804568 Manufacturer Part Number: CH289
Reference OE/OEM Number: 96624722, 4804568, Reference OE/OEM Number_21: 96624722, 4804568,


I just want to be sure that this is the problem as I don't want to waste my time changing it for nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
972 Posts
My CV joint / axle is shut!

I am starting to agree with Scotty Kilmer that some cars when they reach 100k miles they start falling apart crying:
https://youtu.be/mS44etlp4nY
I haven't been following your problem with a knocking noise, this is the first post I've seen about it. If you're getting that amount of lateral movement on the shaft coming from wear (or play) in the CV joint then the noise would be horrendous when you drove it along the road.

There's usually a circlip in the splined area of the shaft which locks the shaft to the hub (either inboard or outboard) which can be broken if someone is too rough when assembling the drive shaft to the vehicle. A broken circlip would allow the amount of lateral movement you seem to be getting in the shaft..

The other thing is, on the drivers side, the drive shaft is shorter because the differential drive casing has an extension coming out and there's a bearing in there to provide extra support. It's not unusual for that bearing to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I haven't been following your problem with a knocking noise, this is the first post I've seen about it. If you're getting that amount of lateral movement on the shaft coming from wear (or play) in the CV joint then the noise would be horrendous when you drove it along the road.

There's usually a circlip in the splined area of the shaft which locks the shaft to the hub (either inboard or outboard) which can be broken if someone is too rough when assembling the drive shaft to the vehicle. A broken circlip would allow the amount of lateral movement you seem to be getting in the shaft..

The other thing is, on the drivers side, the drive shaft is shorter because the differential drive casing has an extension coming out and there's a bearing in there to provide extra support. It's not unusual for that bearing to go.
Basically is a very consistent knocking sound. It does not matter if I hit a bump or the road is like a carpet. one knock each revolution of the wheel. You can hear it better when the car is at 15 t 20 MPH.
I can feel a humble on the steering if the car is in gear. If I disengage the the gears and put on neutral the knocking is still there but not vibration on the steering wheel.

Kwikfit guys claimed it was the inner and outer tie rod. There is not play in any of them and the rubber bits are in perfect condition.

Halfrauds claims is the droplinks (nonsense) as I had brand new ones put even though the original ones were ok. There are no holes or leaks on the cv joints rubber bits and when the wheel is connected you can't feel the play or knocking if you shake it.

Once the wheel is removed you can shake and the knocking is very similar to what I hear and the position that is coming from.


I am 80% convinced is the CV joint. But... I need another option to be sure before spending 80 quid and whole day underneath of the car.


I know is not the wheel bearing as it was replaced a couple of weeks ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
I am pretty sure she is pre oct 2010 (Colour
Silver
Fuel type
Diesel
Date registered
27 September 2012)


I found the part on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-CHEVROLET-CAPTIVA-2-0-2-4-DRIVE-SHAFT-OFF-SIDE-CV-JOINT-2006-ONWARDS/132242620668

Reference OE/OEM Number_1: 4804568 Manufacturer Part Number: CH289
Reference OE/OEM Number: 96624722, 4804568, Reference OE/OEM Number_21: 96624722, 4804568,


I just want to be sure that this is the problem as I don't want to waste my time changing it for nothing.

The eBay link I believe is for the Series 1 with the 2L Diesel and 2.4 Petrol engines. You could double check with J&R though.

Thanks for your registration date.

Basis the info provided the following complete kit numbers have found, but do not state if is the driver or passenger sides.


SHAFT,FRT WHL DRV HALF(BUILT PRIOR TO 24OCT2012, FOR 2ND DES SEE 95299892) [95480030]

SHAFT,FRT WHL DRV HALF(BUILT PRIOR TO 24OCT2012, FOR 2ND DES SEE 95299896) [95480034]
 
  • Like
Reactions: gcmarcal

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The eBay link I believe is for the Series 1 with the 2L Diesel and 2.4 Petrol engines. You could double check with J&R though.

Thanks for your registration date.

Basis the info provided the following complete kit numbers have found, but do not state if is the driver or passenger sides.


SHAFT,FRT WHL DRV HALF(BUILT PRIOR TO 24OCT2012, FOR 2ND DES SEE 95299892) [95480030]

SHAFT,FRT WHL DRV HALF(BUILT PRIOR TO 24OCT2012, FOR 2ND DES SEE 95299896) [95480034]
Thanks

Those match the repair kit. I would prefer to change the whole unit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
972 Posts
Basically is a very consistent knocking sound. It does not matter if I hit a bump or the road is like a carpet. one knock each revolution of the wheel. You can hear it better when the car is at 15 t 20 MPH.
I can feel a humble on the steering if the car is in gear. If I disengage the the gears and put on neutral the knocking is still there but not vibration on the steering wheel.
The symptoms you describe ar not typical of a worn CV joint which is usually characterised by a clicking noise, getting worse when the wheel is turned on full steering lock but as it progresses the wear can produce all kinds of noises. Your drive shaft will have an outer ball joint and an inner tripod plunge joint. You shouldn't be able to move the shaft in and out the way you showed in your video which prompted me to mention a broken circlip allowing the shaft to float. Still, at the mileage you've done, you'd probably be better to fit a new drive shaft and you're right, fitting a complete shaft is the best way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The symptoms you describe ar not typical of a worn CV joint which is usually characterised by a clicking noise, getting worse when the wheel is turned on full steering lock but as it progresses the wear can produce all kinds of noises. Your drive shaft will have an outer ball joint and an inner tripod plunge joint. You shouldn't be able to move the shaft in and out the way you showed in your video which prompted me to mention a broken circlip allowing the shaft to float. Still, at the mileage you've done, you'd probably be better to fit a new drive shaft and you're right, fitting a complete shaft is the best way to go.
Thanks Victor and all the replies from everyone. I am awaiting for the confirmation that the part fits from the seller.


I will replace it and keep you guys posted to help future users
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
972 Posts
There's a few comments I'd make having viewed the video:

At 8:05 he wasted a bit of time trying to separate the drive shaft from the hub by hand. That’s never likely to work, better to use a copper/hide mallet right away (leaving the nut on of course).

At 9:00 he uses a lever to separate the inner joint from the transmission which is fine on a ramp. When I’ve done these just with the vehicle jacked I’ve had to use a sliding impact puller.

At 10:34 when he reassembles the shaft to the transmission he doesn’t put any oil on the flange. This is fine for the Chevy Traverse which has a sealed bearing but on your Antara it probably has a different type of bearing with a conventional lip seal so you need to lubricate the shaft before you fit it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There's a few comments I'd make having viewed the video:

At 8:05 he wasted a bit of time trying to separate the drive shaft from the hub by hand. That’s never likely to work, better to use a copper/hide mallet right away (leaving the nut on of course).

At 9:00 he uses a lever to separate the inner joint from the transmission which is fine on a ramp. When I’ve done these just with the vehicle jacked I’ve had to use a sliding impact puller.

At 10:34 when he reassembles the shaft to the transmission he doesn’t put any oil on the flange. This is fine for the Chevy Traverse which has a sealed bearing but on your Antara it probably has a different type of bearing with a conventional lip seal so you need to lubricate the shaft before you fit it.
Yes! I have watched another video where they put a grease layer before putting the shaft end back!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Did you ever find the reason for the knocking ? and manage to get it sorted ? I have a 2008 Captiva, there is a bit of knocking/looseness ? when I am on some rougher road surfaces which is more noticeable at lower speeds, and also if im letting it coast a bit, seems to stop if I give it a bit of gas, I have replaced the lower arm rear bushes, front shocks and both drop links, but is still there like I say on certain surfaces, any ideas anybody ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you ever find the reason for the knocking ? and manage to get it sorted ? I have a 2008 Captiva, there is a bit of knocking/looseness ? when I am on some rougher road surfaces which is more noticeable at lower speeds, and also if im letting it coast a bit, seems to stop if I give it a bit of gas, I have replaced the lower arm rear bushes, front shocks and both drop links, but is still there like I say on certain surfaces, any ideas anybody ?
I am counting on the driveshaft axle bearing to be shut! I ordered a new part and will fit Saturday.

Mine only stops when the card does not move :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I keep writing "Card" instead of "CAR"!

That happens when you work in a place issuing cards everyday! :)
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top