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Ok good luck, I hope that fixes it for you. You got any thoughts on mine that I mentioned above ? or anybody else ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok good luck, I hope that fixes it for you. You got any thoughts on mine that I mentioned above ? or anybody else ?
I would not have a clue on your case. I never even touched a series one. The guys in here might have a better idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Update!


The part was replaced and the noise is still there!!!! So frustrating!?



My CV joint was bad but the other connection seemed fine. ( probably I could have just fixed with the kit sold!)
The play as the first video has gone. You can shake now and there is a minimal play which seems to be the normal tolerance for it.

The job is quite straight forward and it was easy to pry the axle off with a pry bar.

The replacement part does not look exactly like the original, but it fits perfectly ( it does say on the the box that part may differ in appearance)


My next step is to swap the wheels around ( should have tried it that first)


Could be an unbalanced tyre ( unlikely)
or a warped brake rotor

If this fails I will raise the car on bricks and jacks and try to film it from underneath!

I am running out of ideas.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So was this the J&R Drive Shaft Kit, and what part number do they use ?

No, I contacted them and they told me that it would not fit. Even though the part number is the same.

I bought from this guys ( same people that I got the wheel bearings from:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-RIGHT-OFF-SIDE-DRIVESHAFT-FITS-CHEVROLET-CAPTIVA-VAUXHALL-ANTARA/273363905026?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


Manufacturer Part Number: CH289
Reference OE/OEM Number: 96624722, 4804568, Reference OE/OEM Number_21: 96624722, 4804568,
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
has the new d/shaft not cured it ?
Not at all!

I checked the caliper and the brake rotor and they are not the culprit as far as I can tell!

Things are just getting worse as my ABS sensor failed. I tried to replace with a spare one and it would not fit in the hole... To make matters worse now I have Knocking when I go over uneven surfaces ( started probably this weekend when I took the caliper and brakes out!! :mad:
 

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GC, Checking your brakes would have involved jacking your vehicle up which would have released tension on the springs. I'm wondering if you have a broken spring which is causing the noise? Check high up as it may only be a 'tail end' piece of coil. Employ all safety precautions in respect of fingers/hands near springs.
.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
GC, Checking your brakes would have involved jacking your vehicle up which would have released tension on the springs. I'm wondering if you have a broken spring which is causing the noise? Check high up as it may only be a 'tail end' piece of coil. Employ all safety precautions in respect of fingers/hands near springs.
.
Another thing on my list now! Thanks Aussie Ed

I will check when I get my replacement ABS sensor
 

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i might have a spare day next week, if i have i'll let you know, i'm a fully trained Saab mechanic, sadly i don't know the common faults of ANY other vehicle, im purely Saab, but if you can meet me halfway i could have a look for you, can't promise i'll find the fault but a fresh pair of eyes and ears could help if you still can't find what it is, no charge, i'm not touting for business, i'm usually rammed to the rafters all over the country and also have customers in France, spain etc.... i'm currently having a rest from it all, my father passed away and i've got his funeral to go to on monday so i'm off for a few days after that, but i could get across if you fancy it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
i might have a spare day next week, if i have i'll let you know, i'm a fully trained Saab mechanic, sadly i don't know the common faults of ANY other vehicle, im purely Saab, but if you can meet me halfway i could have a look for you, can't promise i'll find the fault but a fresh pair of eyes and ears could help if you still can't find what it is, no charge, i'm not touting for business, i'm usually rammed to the rafters all over the country and also have customers in France, spain etc.... i'm currently having a rest from it all, my father passed away and i've got his funeral to go to on monday so i'm off for a few days after that, but i could get across if you fancy it....
I will accept your offer! We are not too far apart anyway.
I will gladly come to your place. Thank you

I am sorry for your loss. Let's do it when this miserable weather goes away. No pressure as I have been trying to sort this out since the beginning of December. grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
ok, yeah probably a good idea to lose the bad weather first, so..... june it is then :D :D :D get hold of me when youre ready, im not going anywhere[/QUOTE


LOL, I was thinking in something like the Next weekend if there is no other storms coming.


Where exactly in north Cambridgeshire are you based at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Update and end of the mystery of this thread:

The weather was not so bad and I managed to safely film underneath my car using a laptop from 2008 and a 3 quid endoscope camera from Aliexpress ( I recommend everyone to have one!) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32911877684.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3d694c4dnJCAIs

My suspicions were correct. it is one or more bearings from the transfer case!

The user Biffa from Antara owners forum nailed it:



"Just bought an 11 plate se nav 2.2 that's high mileage which was cheap driving it back there is a lot of noise from the drive train/wheel bearing.

Noise like wheel bearing going starts above 20 mph
judder when under acceleration
resonance at 70mph
rumble on deceleration without using brakes

Had it up on the ramps tonight to check things out before I take it to bits as I have been reading up on the faults with transfer boxes and wanted to catch it before it destroyed itself completely, if that was what the problem was, which indeed it was.
Looks like the fault I have on my transfer box is that the supporting bearing on the drivers side output shaft is shot which results in you being able to lift the inner cv joint of the drive shaft vertically by what feels like 3mm or more. I will be taking it to bits as soon as I get time to find the extent of the damage, which I hope is limited to bearings and if needed a re-bore and sleeve of the aluminium casting where the bearing seats. I will update on progress as I do the work, but looking at the problems in the post and others it sounds very familiar.
If it appears that this is the area of initial failure I will be studying the vehicle layout and component design carefully and reporting back on my findings, but already have a couple of thoughts that I have read on other posts that would add to premature failure which I have listed below.

Bearing area sits directly above the exhaust which will cause damage due to excessive expansion of the aluminium housing and bearing outer race rotation in situations where the exhaust gets excessively hot (re-gen) once the outer race is loose it will "Roll" in the bore opening up the clearance which is the problem I see above. seems cars in America have a heatshield fitted to shield from heat soak from the exhaust.

Excessive out of balance of the inner prop shaft although this would probably be noticed earlier. This would also cause bearing outer sleeve roll effect.

Excessive vibration caused by bad roads. Distinct possibility as there seems to be more vertical than horizontal movement.

Design fault from new whereby the bearing used is not up to the job of carrying the vibratory mass of the driveshaft.

Design fault of the Aluminium housing limits and fits to house the bearing and not understanding the differential expansion rates of dissimilar metals when placing them directly above the exhaust.


Anybody's thoughts and comments are appreciated on the above as would be a schematic of the transfer box and any bearing numbers so I can get prepared for the job ahead

Thanks

BIFFA"


Videos below:








Next step now is to remove the transfer case and get it repaired by a machine shop before it blows.

It will have to survive a bit longer as I don't want to spend any more weekends underneath the car.


I could buy a transfer case on ebay ( next time they have the 10% off whole site). But before that I will try to get in touch with Biffa but the Antara owners forum keeps claiming that I am not human!


So calam1ty, unless you want to come and learn with me how to remove a transfer case I won't be visiting you! Thank you very much for the kind offer.
 

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GC,
At least you now have a diagnosis although unfortunately it comes with a cost attached to it. Shame.
.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
GC,
At least you now have a diagnosis although unfortunately it comes with a cost attached to it. Shame.
.
Nevermind. I just have to find the most economical way to repair.

I don't have any long trips programmed for this year ( last year I drove to France).

I just have to have this sorted before my next time sensitive trip ( Airport)

:)
 

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Well done @gcmarcal with your diagnosis, I’d have to agree it sounds like that support bearing is gone.

Couple of things I’m curious about

(1) Did you have the whole front end lifted off the ground so that both front wheels were free to spin or did you leave the passengers side wheel on the ground? If the latter then the differential would have to work 100% to direct the drive to the drivers side which could result in noise being transmitted along the shaft.

(2) Which gear did you put it in and what kind of road speed indicated?

(3) I’d say the “helicopter” noise was more pronounced when the wheel was still on.

(4) Do you get any lift in the shaft where it exits the diff housing extension? If it’s the bearing that’s causing all the various noises then I’d expect there to be noticeable free play in it. Even more so if it’s been spinning in the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well done @gcmarcal with your diagnosis, I’d have to agree it sounds like that support bearing is gone.

Couple of things I’m curious about

(1) Did you have the whole front end lifted off the ground so that both front wheels were free to spin or did you leave the passengers side wheel on the ground? If the latter then the differential would have to work 100% to direct the drive to the drivers side which could result in noise being transmitted along the shaft.

(2) Which gear did you put it in and what kind of road speed indicated?

(3) I’d say the “helicopter” noise was more pronounced when the wheel was still on.

(4) Do you get any lift in the shaft where it exits the diff housing extension? If it’s the bearing that’s causing all the various noises then I’d expect there to be noticeable free play in it. Even more so if it’s been spinning in the housing.

Hi Victor!

(1) Whole front was lifted and both wheels were off the ground!

(2) I got until the 3rd gear. But the noise was more audible on the 15 to 20 MPH mark. I got up to 40 MPH. THe usual rumble from the gears did not happen because it comes from the road vibrations passed through the driveshafts/ wheels

(3) Agree! They weight of the wheels causes more stress on the bearings.

(4) There is a visible play, I cut from the original video but I will upload another one.
 
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