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Finally after several months I was able to solve the problem of idling ticking with the hot engine that many complain about.
In my case it was due to the engine wiring, more precisely I found in the bundle of wires that go to the control unit near the battery 5/6 bare wires
with the damaged cover (chapped peels) I insulated them individually with insulating tape and covered the beam with self-amalgamating tape.
After this operation I heard the infamous ticking still the first day, the second day barely noticeable, in the following days disappeared.
I waited to write to be sure, 2 months have passed, the noise is gone.
I recommend to those who have this problem to remove the plastic cover over the engine and inspect all the wiring that you can see, look for
any anomaly (stripped, cracked cables, bad connectors) if you do not find anything, get help from an electrician also for the wiring part
behind and under the engine not easily visible
I hope I have been of help, let me know what you find
 

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Interesting and enlightening cause and solution. Thanks for Feedback.
 

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Finally after several months I was able to solve the problem of idling ticking with the hot engine that many complain about.
In my case it was due to the engine wiring, more precisely I found in the bundle of wires that go to the control unit near the battery 5/6 bare wires
with the damaged cover (chapped peels) I insulated them individually with insulating tape and covered the beam with self-amalgamating tape.
After this operation I heard the infamous ticking still the first day, the second day barely noticeable, in the following days disappeared.
I waited to write to be sure, 2 months have passed, the noise is gone.
I recommend to those who have this problem to remove the plastic cover over the engine and inspect all the wiring that you can see, look for
any anomaly (stripped, cracked cables, bad connectors) if you do not find anything, get help from an electrician also for the wiring part
behind and under the engine not easily visible
I hope I have been of help, let me know what you find
Hi, do you have a picture of where exactly the bare wires were found/ Thanks, Howard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Topman 396, the bare wires were located near the battery, exactly in the bundle that enters the engine control unit and were clearly visible, you will have to search carefully and patiently on all the engine wiring
 

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Finally after several months I was able to solve the problem of idling ticking with the hot engine that many complain about.
In my case it was due to the engine wiring, more precisely I found in the bundle of wires that go to the control unit near the battery 5/6 bare wires
with the damaged cover (chapped peels) I insulated them individually with insulating tape and covered the beam with self-amalgamating tape.
After this operation I heard the infamous ticking still the first day, the second day barely noticeable, in the following days disappeared.
I waited to write to be sure, 2 months have passed, the noise is gone.
I recommend to those who have this problem to remove the plastic cover over the engine and inspect all the wiring that you can see, look for
any anomaly (stripped, cracked cables, bad connectors) if you do not find anything, get help from an electrician also for the wiring part
behind and under the engine not easily visible
I hope I have been of help, let me know what you find
May I ask what wires you fix sir? Do you have a picture of this for us to visualize? Thanks, sir
 

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Finally after several months I was able to solve the problem of idling ticking with the hot engine that many complain about.
In my case it was due to the engine wiring, more precisely I found in the bundle of wires that go to the control unit near the battery 5/6 bare wires
with the damaged cover (chapped peels) I insulated them individually with insulating tape and covered the beam with self-amalgamating tape.
After this operation I heard the infamous ticking still the first day, the second day barely noticeable, in the following days disappeared.
I waited to write to be sure, 2 months have passed, the noise is gone.
I recommend to those who have this problem to remove the plastic cover over the engine and inspect all the wiring that you can see, look for
any anomaly (stripped, cracked cables, bad connectors) if you do not find anything, get help from an electrician also for the wiring part
behind and under the engine not easily visible
I hope I have been of help, let me know what you find
Hi Nanone,
I also a Holden Captiva 2.2 litre Turbo Diesel which also has the infamous Ticking Sound when engine is warm and idling, my captiva is a 2013 model series 2,, i recently went to the Holden service center were i live for some information on a Fault Code P200A-00 to do with the IMRC and i had a recording on my mobile phone of the noise, i asked the head service technician after i played the sound,
HIS Answer Was,, ( I know what that is, GM had a bulletin about it what it is ,, is that the ECU uses the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft sensor to determine when to fire the injectors, what happens he went on to say is that the signal from the camshaft sensor gets weak or stops then the ECU forces the Injectors to Pulse so it can determine were the camshaft should be (THAT IS THE TICKING SOUND) and the only way to fix it is to change some of the female pins in one of the ECU plugs the technician said,, i am going to book it in to the workshop to get these pins changed and to see if the bulletin from GM was correct),
I have last week removed the 15amp ECU fuse to kill the ECU memory then after 30 mins remove the 2 plugs from the ECU, i then proceeded to connect and diss-conect each plug several times then refit them and replace ECU Fuse, start the car get it warm and wait for the noise, the noise dissapeared for 4 days then came back, so maybe when these pins are changed it may be fixed,, we will see..
I am going to try to get a copy of the GM Bulletin and also what pin numbers need to be changed,, Hopefully i can but workshops these days do not like giving that information.
I will let you know when i get the pins changed and the outcome.
 
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Hi Guys,
This latest discussion is now off Topic caption and has been relocated under DTC P200A which is a separate issue. It gets messy mixing topics so I've separated them for individual clarity.
Discussion here can be continued concerning the Ticking sound and pins discussion.
 

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Hi Guys,
This latest discussion is now off Topic caption and has been relocated under DTC P200A which is a separate issue. It gets messy mixing topics so I've separated them for individual clarity.
Discussion here can be continued concerning the Ticking sound and pins discussion.
Hi Ed, sorry about that Mate, still learning about how to reply, i have realized my mistake :), go to the discussion first then reply,, By the way Ed i live in Mackay Qld , Thanks Mate ,, Lurchy
 

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Lurchy, Its sorted. It is so easy when there may be more than one issue to get writing about several topics in one go. The benefit of keeping topics individual is that it is easier for subsequent use of the Search function by other members to find later.
It's been many years since I was in Mackay. Remember it as a nice place. We could do with some of your good weather. UK struggling to reach double figures C and this is our Spring !
 

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I find this obsession about things being shut down or moved because they are going “off topic” to be irksome and restrictive. It curtails the normal flow of dialogue about problems which crop up. Rarely do these follow narrow, parallel logic, there’s twists and turns as they develop which diagnostics, by their very nature, are subject to.
 

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Victor, there is no obsession. I very rarely move a post - normally those I do move have usually been entered in the wrong vehicle forum and it is best they are read in the respective vehicle Sub Forum for the OP to have his/her post seen in the applicable vehicle Forum. Even more rarely do I remove or shut down a post completely other than those which are verbally offensive (as last week - the first in possibly 3-4 years), or Spam which the forum system usually routes directly to me for review and action long before it ever reaches the Forum open pages.
In respect of removal of posts you need to bear in mind that Main Admin can, as indeed the member can, so removal may well have nothing whatsoever to do with me.

You kindly offered the link for the OP & readers information and the eventual solution in that series of posts was an air feed hose split. It was a good example of numerous discussed possibilities ending up being a simple split in an Air Feed and admirably demonstrated the convoluted twists and turns you referred to.
The link already existed under that Title for anyone to easily cross refer to, therefore discussion did not need to be duplicated under a different Title.
Member Lurchy has been courteously magnanimous in understanding that.
 

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Hi Nanone,
I also a Holden Captiva 2.2 litre Turbo Diesel which also has the infamous Ticking Sound when engine is warm and idling, my captiva is a 2013 model series 2,, i recently went to the Holden service center were i live for some information on a Fault Code P200A-00 to do with the IMRC and i had a recording on my mobile phone of the noise, i asked the head service technician after i played the sound,
HIS Answer Was,, ( I know what that is, GM had a bulletin about it what it is ,, is that the ECU uses the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft sensor to determine when to fire the injectors, what happens he went on to say is that the signal from the camshaft sensor gets weak or stops then the ECU forces the Injectors to Pulse so it can determine were the camshaft should be (THAT IS THE TICKING SOUND) and the only way to fix it is to change some of the female pins in one of the ECU plugs the technician said,, i am going to book it in to the workshop to get these pins changed and to see if the bulletin from GM was correct),
I have last week removed the 15amp ECU fuse to kill the ECU memory then after 30 mins remove the 2 plugs from the ECU, i then proceeded to connect and diss-conect each plug several times then refit them and replace ECU Fuse, start the car get it warm and wait for the noise, the noise dissapeared for 4 days then came back, so maybe when these pins are changed it may be fixed,, we will see..
I am going to try to get a copy of the GM Bulletin and also what pin numbers need to be changed,, Hopefully i can but workshops these days do not like giving that information.
I will let you know when i get the pins changed and the outcome.
Hi Forum Users,
i have posted in the past information about this Idle Ticking noise, as i mentioned in my post i talked to a leading mechanic at my local Holden Dealership about the problem, and he told me about Camshaft sensor and ECU making injectors pulse,,,
Well i was fed (I Feel) a so called (Red Herring) and i took it hook line and sinker, how i know is i booked my vehicle in to have 4 terminals changed, the service card i saw when paying a 75 dollar payment to secure these 4 terminals from their supplier was headed on the job sheet as (KNOCK SENSOR TERMINAL REPLACEMENT), Refer SI (Service Information),
Victor and Ed i have done some research since then and found this knock sensor listens for engine knocks but also can distinguish some how,, Fuel Detonation Issues and it helps the ECU to (Advance and Retard the Timing and Injectors and Fuel Pressure),
It seems that the problem is associated with, when engine is at operating Temperature and / or Cold, the timing is a fraction out of sync and the Knock Sensor (a Piezo Microphone of Sorts) picks up detonation vibrations and engine knocks and relays to ECU so it can adjust Timing to suit.
Every time i have heard this Ticking sound it is after a going for a drive, engine is Hot and i have just slowed down or come to a complete stop, then the sound starts (3 to 4 repetitions) then ceases.

I have been told by workshop that no terminals available in Australia and they have been ordered and will take approx 6 weeks to arrive
I have purchased a new Knock Sensor ($169.50 AUD) and will try to change it out when i do an oil service on my captiva, apparently it is somewhere up under the throttle body and Intake Manifold, More Blood Sweat and Tears.
Information i have researched says that the sensor Mounting Block on the Engine block must be Clean, no paint, no dielectric grease applied, Must be clean face to face contact torqued to 20nm with connector cable anchored to engine block to avoid extra vibration, these sensors work at 1000htz.
Sorry about the earlier post (Re: Cam sensor causing this) in my frustration i took a head mechs explanation as truth, only to find there is to much Secret Squirrel Stuff associated with dealer workshops.
I will let you all know my result when i succeed in changing the sensor out, Lurchy 130521
1951
Motor vehicle Handwriting Automotive tire Font Gas
 
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Hi Nanone,
I also a Holden Captiva 2.2 litre Turbo Diesel which also has the infamous Ticking Sound when engine is warm and idling, my captiva is a 2013 model series 2,, i recently went to the Holden service center were i live for some information on a Fault Code P200A-00 to do with the IMRC and i had a recording on my mobile phone of the noise, i asked the head service technician after i played the sound,
HIS Answer Was,, ( I know what that is, GM had a bulletin about it what it is ,, is that the ECU uses the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft sensor to determine when to fire the injectors, what happens he went on to say is that the signal from the camshaft sensor gets weak or stops then the ECU forces the Injectors to Pulse so it can determine were the camshaft should be (THAT IS THE TICKING SOUND) and the only way to fix it is to change some of the female pins in one of the ECU plugs the technician said,, i am going to book it in to the workshop to get these pins changed and to see if the bulletin from GM was correct),
I have last week removed the 15amp ECU fuse to kill the ECU memory then after 30 mins remove the 2 plugs from the ECU, i then proceeded to connect and diss-conect each plug several times then refit them and replace ECU Fuse, start the car get it warm and wait for the noise, the noise dissapeared for 4 days then came back, so maybe when these pins are changed it may be fixed,, we will see..
I am going to try to get a copy of the GM Bulletin and also what pin numbers need to be changed,, Hopefully i can but workshops these days do not like giving that information.
I will let you know when i get the pins changed and the outcome.
Hi Forum Users,
i have posted in the past information about this Idle Ticking noise, as i mentioned in my post i talked to a leading mechanic at my local Holden Dealership about the problem, and he told me about Camshaft sensor and ECU making injectors pulse,,,
Well i was fed (I Feel) a so called (Red Herring) and i took it hook line and sinker, how i know is i booked my vehicle in to have 4 terminals changed, the service card i saw when paying a 75 dollar payment to secure these 4 terminals from their supplier was headed on the job sheet as (KNOCK SENSOR TERMINAL REPLACEMENT), Refer SI (Service Information),
Victor and Ed i have done some research since then and found this knock sensor listens for engine knocks but also can distinguish some how,, Fuel Detonation Issues and it helps the ECU to (Advance and Retard the Timing and Injectors and Fuel Pressure),
It seems that the problem is associated with, when engine is at operating Temperature and / or Cold, the timing is a fraction out of sync and the Knock Sensor (a Piezo Microphone of Sorts) picks up detonation vibrations and engine knocks and relays to ECU so it can adjust Timing to suit.
Every time i have heard this Ticking sound it is after a going for a drive, engine is Hot and i have just slowed down or come to a complete stop, then the sound starts (3 to 4 repetitions) then ceases.

I have been told by workshop that no terminals available in Australia and they have been ordered and will take approx 6 weeks to arrive
I have purchased a new Knock Sensor ($169.50 AUD) and will try to change it out when i do an oil service on my captiva, apparently it is somewhere up under the throttle body and Intake Manifold, More Blood Sweat and Tears.
Information i have researched says that the sensor Mounting Block on the Engine block must be Clean, no paint, no dielectric grease applied, Must be clean face to face contact torqued to 20nm with connector cable anchored to engine block to avoid extra vibration, these sensors work at 1000htz.
Sorry about the earlier post (Re: Cam sensor causing this) in my frustration i took a head mechs explanation as truth, only to find there is to much Secret Squirrel Stuff associated with dealer workshops.
I will let you all know my result when i succeed in changing the sensor out, Lurchy 130521
View attachment 1951
 

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Hi Forum Users,
i have posted in the past information about this Idle Ticking noise, as i mentioned in my post i talked to a leading mechanic at my local Holden Dealership about the problem, and he told me about Camshaft sensor and ECU making injectors pulse,,, Well i was fed (I Feel) a so called (Red Herring) and i took it hook line and sinker, how i know is i booked my vehicle in to have 4 terminals changed, the service card i saw when paying a 75 dollar payment to secure these 4 terminals from their supplier was headed on the job sheet as (KNOCK SENSOR TERMINAL REPLACEMENT), Refer SI (Service Information),

Victor and Ed i have done some research since then and found this knock sensor listens for engine knocks but also can distinguish some how,, Fuel Detonation Issues and it helps the ECU to (Advance and Retard the Timing and Injectors and Fuel Pressure),

It seems that the problem is associated with, when engine is at operating Temperature and / or Cold, the timing is a fraction out of sync and the Knock Sensor (a Piezo Microphone of Sorts) picks up detonation vibrations and engine knocks and relays to ECU so it can adjust Timing to suit.

Every time i have heard this Ticking sound it is after a going for a drive, engine is Hot and i have just slowed down or come to a complete stop, then the sound starts (3 to 4 repetitions) then ceases.

I have been told by workshop that no terminals available in Australia and they have been ordered and will take approx 6 weeks to arrive I have purchased a new Knock Sensor ($169.50 AUD) and will try to change it out when i do an oil service on my captiva, apparently it is somewhere up under the throttle body and Intake Manifold, More Blood Sweat and Tears.
Information i have researched says that the sensor Mounting Block on the Engine block must be Clean, no paint, no dielectric grease applied, Must be clean face to face contact torqued to 20nm with connector cable anchored to engine block to avoid extra vibration, these sensors work at 1000htz.
Sorry about the earlier post (Re: Cam sensor causing this) in my frustration i took a head mechs explanation as truth, only to find there is to much Secret Squirrel Stuff associated with dealer workshops.
I will let you all know my result when i succeed in changing the sensor out, Lurchy 130521
View attachment 1951
Hi Lurchy, interesting to hear this latest development. I’d have thought if the knock sensor was faulty it would be giving your trouble when you’re running the car, not just at idle. Personally I’d be inclined to get someone with an oscilloscope to check the signal wave form from your old one first.

I’m of the opinion this noise is caused by faulty injectors (worn nozzles and excess leak rates) and the noise you hear is the ECU trying to adjust Pilot Injection Timing using the knock sensor to find its limits. However, you say it always happens after going out for a drive and I wonder if you do a lot of short runs and your catalytic converter gets fouled so the ECU adjusts the fuel trims accordingly. Then on a longer run at a higher temperature it changes value again and the ECU tries to adjust fuel trims and the pilot injection to suit..Have you ever tried a CAT cleaner? Remember on the your engine the CAT is part of the DPF instead of being a honeycomb substrate in the exhaust manifold

Any road we’ll wait and see what develops
1952
 

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Hi Lurchy, interesting to hear this latest development. I’d have thought if the knock sensor was faulty it would be giving your trouble when you’re running the car, not just at idle. Personally I’d be inclined to get someone with an oscilloscope to check the signal wave form from your old one first.

I’m of the opinion this noise is caused by faulty injectors (worn nozzles and excess leak rates) and the noise you hear is the ECU trying to adjust Pilot Injection Timing using the knock sensor to find its limits. However, you say it always happens after going out for a drive and I wonder if you do a lot of short runs and your catalytic converter gets fouled so the ECU adjusts the fuel trims accordingly. Then on a longer run at a higher temperature it changes value again and the ECU tries to adjust fuel trims and the pilot injection to suit..Have you ever tried a CAT cleaner? Remember on the your engine the CAT is part of the DPF instead of being a honeycomb substrate in the exhaust manifold

Any road we’ll wait and see what develops
View attachment 1952
Hi Victor,
I have done a injector bypass leak test and they seem to be equal as my video will show, there is no missing while the engine is running and the engine runs smoothly, i have tried to reach the area were knock sensor is located but with no luck, there is no codes logged also and the noise is only there on idle a few times then disappears the exact same cyclic noise on Nanone video, i will also look up a manual on the Antara you have to see if the engine is the same as mine, could come in handy, i will get the fuel trims checked, also the DPF is on the engine exhaust ports and the Catalytic converter is below that, the Pre Cat O2 is below the DPF were would the Post Cat O2 be located Victor,, thanks Victor,, Lurchy

Bypass Test
Bypass Test A
 
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