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Discussion Starter #1
I started on Zippys belt renewal on Monday afternoon and finally got the cambelt off today. I've only ever done the belts on an 800, and there's a lot less room on the 1000 with the extra cylinder and aircon parts. From the condition of the old belts I don't think they'd ever been changed. All of them are original Daewoo parts, and some have lots of small cracks. The cam belt was quite loose and well worn.
Because the car hadn't reached the 60,000 mile point (although being over 13 years old at the last service) nobody had bothered to renew them. (the rule is 60,000 miles OR 6 years, whichever comes first)
The worst problem is access to the alternator top bolt to slacken it off to remove the belt, with the aircon and power steering pipes in the way. At one point I had to put moisturiser on my arms to get in to undo it! The other difficulty is getting a screwdriver to stay in the bell housing hole to hold the crankshaft. I ended up jamming a large screwdriver in place with a block of wood. Got it done though and collecting my new belts tomorrow morning from Europarts.
With a bit of luck it could be done by tomorrow dinnertime...
 

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Fingers crossed. Good Luck,
 

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Pete,

do you have any pictures of the strip down. I have one to do soon (its at about 50k) and always useful to follow a trail blazer than try to work it out from the manual. The alternator looks like its in a really hidden position.

All tips gratefully accepted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Ed.

Wilkinsm.
Not sure I could describe myself as a trailblazer, but a few things I did might be useful.
The main problem is access, so slim hands and wrists would be helpful. Unfortunately I don't have them..
I started by taking off the front offside wheel and headlight then the alternator and aircon/power steering belts and the cambelt covers. (There are a few difficult bolts on the covers and the alternator) I then used a zip tie to secure the the new cambelt onto the top of the cam pulley, while I fitted it onto the crankshaft pulleys etc. I was working alone, and having problems keeping the screwdriver in place in the bell housing, so I drilled a hole in the top plate of a scissor jack and filed the end of a 4" bolt to a blunt screwdriver shape, pushing the bolt through the jack top plate and holding it in place with a locknut. I just needed to position the jack under the hole and wind it up. The crankshaft stays securely locked while you undo the bolt.
Another problem I had was tensioning the alternator belt as I tightened the tensioning bolt, I think I might try drilling a hole in a tyre iron to take the hooked end of a bungee cord. It might help here..
Another problem was the fact that Europarts supplied the wrong length belt for the aircon/power steering pulleys, their belt was 910mm as against the 965mm of the old belt. It just wouldn't go on. I've just taken it back and they swopped it for one which is 1075mm. I've yet to try it as it's pelting down here.
I tightened the idler nut by hand, then checked it with my (newly bought) low range torque wrench, but I needn't have bothered, it was spot on! I guess 50 years of spannering has to pay off sometimes..
I also used blue nail varnish from the pound shop, and a hammer and punch to put my own marks on the relevent pulleys. Anyway, I got it all back together at about 7 oclock last night, but while it started straight away, there was a scraping and whining noise coming from either the cambelt cover or the alternator. I was too tired to investigate any further but I think either I've put the idler tensioner spring on the wrong way around, or the belt is scraping on the cover somewhere. I'll have to wait for the rain to dry up here since I'm working in the open. I will try to add a few pics.
I think if you curse Daewoo/Chevrolet during this job you can forgive yourself!
3.jpg

Watch this space...
 

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Pete,

Love the idea of using the jack with the bolt. Can see what you mean about the room, mine are 800cc so a bit more space to play with. Another tip i use a lot is taking loads of photos as i strip it down to make sure i put it back the same way (hence i have pics to post here), find it saves thing like your spring problem happening (not always though).

worrying that eurocar parts got it wrong. one of the main reasons i use them is shopping by registration number usually guarantees a good fit. only had one problem with them and that was on rear brakes where they supplied pins too short for shoe retainers but the old ones still had life in them so wasn't too much of an issue but with belts would be a real pain.

How much was your cam belt kit ? The one i can see for mine(on eurocarparts) is about £70 (looks like the £55 one is out of stock). However see loads of these on ebay for about £36-60 but worry over compatibility. I know mark up on spares is usually about 120% but still seems a lot to pay for a big rubber band and metal pully.

Thanks for posting the photos and the description least i know what I am in for now...

ttfn
 

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Pete,

Love the idea of using the jack with the bolt. Can see what you mean about the room, mine are 800cc so a bit more space to play with. Another tip i use a lot is taking loads of photos as i strip it down to make sure i put it back the same way (hence i have pics to post here), find it saves thing like your spring problem happening (not always though).

worrying that eurocar parts got it wrong. one of the main reasons i use them is shopping by registration number usually guarantees a good fit. only had one problem with them and that was on rear brakes where they supplied pins too short for shoe retainers but the old ones still had life in them so wasn't too much of an issue but with belts would be a real pain.

How much was your cam belt kit ? The one i can see for mine(on eurocarparts) is about £70 (looks like the £55 one is out of stock). However see loads of these on ebay for about £36-60 but worry over compatibility. I know mark up on spares is usually about 120% but still seems a lot to pay for a big rubber band and metal pully.

Thanks for posting the photos and the description least i know what I am in for now...

ttfn
A thing to consider as part of a 60,000 mile cam belt change is the condition on the water pump. It might be prudent to renew the pump during this job. Play in the shaft should be checked also any slight coolant loses which may point to a pump seal issue.
 

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jasta would you recommend changing regardless (the water pump) or only if it was showing signs of leak ?

can understand now why some of the ebay listings include the pump...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi thanks Jasta, I did check the water pump and there's no play or water leakage so I left it alone. If it gives me problems I can whip it off and replace it in record time since I've had so much practice with the cambelt covers etc. on and off so many times..
Wilkinsm, I took the whole thing apart again, reset the cambelt tension again and put it all back together (the spring was fine) and it was still doing it, so I took off both the covers (again) along with the alternator belt, and put them back on one at a time. Sure enough it's the top cover, you can see the rub mark. I can't see how it can go on any different though, short of maybe making a thick gasket to go between the inner plate and the cover..The problem is part of the engine mounting limits access to one side so it's difficult to make sure it's right.
Regarding the new belt. I didn't think it would fit but tried it anyway-way too long. Europarts said the latest belt is the one used by the service people. I can only think it's for the 3 litre matiz..
It needs to be 960mm plus or minus maybe 10-20mm. Lets hope Europarts can come up with the goods next time, or it's money back and searching the internet.. There must be other cars use a similar belt and length surely?
 

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Hi All regarding replacement of the Matiz water pump at cam belt change. Pump replacement at this time is best described as "preventative maintenance". The bearings in the tension roller and pump are sealed for life type and as such will have a finite life. These two bearings contribute to maintaining cam belt tension. If over time wear takes place and the belt becomes slack this can affect valve timing or if the wear causes bearing collapse severe engine damage will be the result. Perhaps this is not a risk worth taking.
 

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I got the water pump changed on my Kalos last year when cam belt was changed. At the time car had only done about 33k but was 11 years old.
As Jasta says its preventative maintenance. If the pump starts leaking you'll have to change the pump and the belt again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I took my old belt into Europarts when I went in for a refund on their latest offering and the bloke behind the counter took one look at it and said "Oh, a 954" and went into the back for 30 seconds emerging with one the same size!
I put the new belt on and tightened up the lower cover, then tightened most of the bolts on the upper cover, then used my power bar to push the lower cover in under the upper one. Started up, lovely and quiet. A good run confirms it's all running well. I did all this in record time, I've had so much practice at tightening those awkward bolts that I could do it blindfold..
Pete.
 

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Pete, How refreshing to hear of a chap behind the counter who knows products at a glance. Make sure you get his name. Well done to Eurocar Parts in Poole.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pete, How refreshing to hear of a chap behind the counter who knows products at a glance. Make sure you get his name. Well done to Eurocar Parts in Poole.
Ed, the belts are apparently marked with the length in mm on the printed section so a 954 is 954mm long, etc. The alternator belt is 665 but from what I can see the codes on the cambelt use some other format, although I'm sure the length is in there somewhere. I'd measured the belt with a tape along the outside and got it to 965, so when I'd told him the length it hadn't registered. So now we know.
 

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Pete,

Love the idea of using the jack with the bolt. Can see what you mean about the room, mine are 800cc so a bit more space to play with. Another tip i use a lot is taking loads of photos as i strip it down to make sure i put it back the same way (hence i have pics to post here), find it saves thing like your spring problem happening (not always though).

worrying that eurocar parts got it wrong. one of the main reasons i use them is shopping by registration number usually guarantees a good fit. only had one problem with them and that was on rear brakes where they supplied pins too short for shoe retainers but the old ones still had life in them so wasn't too much of an issue but with belts would be a real pain.

How much was your cam belt kit ? The one i can see for mine(on eurocarparts) is about £70 (looks like the £55 one is out of stock). However see loads of these on ebay for about £36-60 but worry over compatibility. I know mark up on spares is usually about 120% but still seems a lot to pay for a big rubber band and metal pully.

Thanks for posting the photos and the description least i know what I am in for now...

ttfn
Hi Mark,

I bought my last two cam belts on ebay with no problem. The last one is listed here for £8.45 plus postage.


I realise it was supposed to be the last one but there are other listings for the same part number if this is no longer available.I didn`t change the belt tensioner but they`re available for less than £20.I suppose it`s a case of you pays your money and take your chances!

I
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well after using Zippy once or twice the new power steering/aircon and/or alternator belt started squealing slightly on startup, so I got it back up on the jack and retightened them, all quiet again.
Wilkinsm.
I paid about £ 70 for the alternator and powersteering/aircon pump belts and the cambelt kit (with new idler), but after Europarts discount it came to I think £48. with me collecting. The drive belts were £10 and 15 respectively so the cambelt kit actually worked out at about £23, which I didn't think was too bad. The belts were all Dayco brand.
 
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