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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
all pads cleaned, correct lube in the right places, calliper pistons clean and free but still get the drivers side brakes getting hot and the car loosing power, could this be ABS unit related and if so, would this still be covered under the recall (and if so, where can you get it done in the UK)
 

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all pads cleaned, correct lube in the right places, calliper pistons clean and free but still get the drivers side brakes getting hot and the car loosing power, could this be ABS unit related and if so, would this still be covered under the recall (and if so, where can you get it done in the UK)
Pads have to be loose enough to slide easily in the caliper and the caliper sliding pins need to be free to stop pads binding.
(also check reluctor rings for cracks, missing teeth etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
pads loose, sliders loose, calliper piston clean and everything has correct lube in the right places, this is not just getting a bit warmer than the other side, it`s binding enough to drastically reduce speed, anyone out there know what the actual fault was with the ABS unit?
 

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Neil, your original post isn't overly informative, and my memory isn't too good either. Both recalls were to do with the use of DOT 3 rather than DOT4, at the factory, and possible corrosion inside the ABS unit causing sticking. However the details state that the brakes still work, but might be a bit spongey or travel excessively, and there is no mention of your symptoms. Most Chevrolet models coming out of Korea were affected by this, my own included, and the local dealer dealt with it at the time-no further trouble, and realistically, all of the cars SHOULD have had at least 3 brake fluid changes with DOT4 since.

The last recall was 2014, 7 years ago, so no, not a chance of it being dealt with. We all had letters back then, I still have mine.

I would jack the front up, put it on stands, one side at at a time, with the wheel off, and run it in gear, using the differential to send all the power to one side, and then have a good look at what is actually going on when the brake is GENTLY applied.

Ed is a lot more polite than me, but I have to ask just how you expect to get an answer from anybody when you don't tell us the year of the car, the mileage, it's history, etc, and clearly you have not even looked at the governments recall website. I would be very surprised if Jasta or one of the other Matiz specialists wouldn't have some idea, if you feed them the right information.
 

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Neil, I have to agree and support member Metro's observations about lack of information.
The lack of information from you stems from your original Sign-Up where neither your World Location or vehicle details were provided. We are assuming you are UK located because that is where the forum system believes you to be and as far as the vehicle details are concerned all we have to go on is 'Matiz'.
Providing support by Members is often a combination of detective work and linked suggestions by fellow members. Some items may be relevant and others may simply be red herrings but somewhere amongst the replies may be the 'gem' to solve the problem.
How to help us help you is contained in the following link :- Helpful Guidance Using the Forum

I was puzzled why you appear to have created a second Topic title (worded exactly the same) when all you needed to do was continue building on the original post.
Continuity of reading is often crucial to understand the 'flow' of what has been discussed. I will endeavour to combine the discussions into one.

Having said that you do appear to have methodically endeavoured to resolve your brake issues as far as I can tell. There sometimes comes a point where the problem is obscure and possibly you may have to take your vehicle to break & clutch specialist for diagnosis.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, here goes, 2003 model, .8l engine, 68k miles, owned it for 6 months. I`m not an amateur in the motor trade thats why the brakes have been checked over for the obvious faults with stuck pads or sliders.
what is leading me to ask about ABS unit faults is the erratic nature of the problem, on a trip to birmingham from mid wales the cars stuck to 70MPH easily, not worked out MPG yet but at £10 per 100 miles I`m happy with that but on another day a 10 mile trip will end up having to use 4th gear to hold 60MPH with the drivers side getting very hot compared to passenger side,, leave things cool down a bit, jack the car up and the wheel is stiff to turn, leave it overnight , try again and the wheel is free, it is the erratic nature of it thats doing my head in, pedal travel is fine, stopping performance is good, no pulling to any side with hands off the wheel either under power, coasting or braking, might be time to just accept that it`s a cheap, poorly built motorised shopping trolley and scrap it.
 

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Hi neil82. Just to put your mind at rest regarding any ABS recall. The information you have now provided suggests your vehicle is a Matiz M150 model. The ABS problems occurred during production of the later M200 Matiz. As far as I can see your vehicle is recall free. You do not mention any ABS warning lights so It must be assumed that the ABS self tests successfully.
The conditions you mention concerning the right side front disc brake point towards a sticking piston that is failing to retract to allow running clearance for the brake pads. The retraction force is provided by the piston seal being subjected to a light shearing force as a result of braking pressure. When the brake pressure is removed the elastic energy contained in the displaced seal is normally sufficient to retract the piston and remove load from the pads. As you will appreciate this retracting force is very small and is easily overcome by problems such as corrosion on the wall of the caliper cylinder.
The point you raise regarding the the situation resolving overtime when the vehicle is not being driven suggests the hot expanded brake parts have cooled and contracted allowing temporary freedom of movement.
Any corrosion that exists within a braking system is almost certainly due to water contamination of the hygroscopic brake fluid. Your vehicle should have a brake fluid change every 2 years. Do you think your vehicle has had around 7 or 8 fluid changes during its life?
In your position I would change the front brake calipers, pads and brake fluid to resolve any brake safety issues concerning an older vehicle. Lets hope you get this matter resolved.
 

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Has it been like this since you've had the car ?
Is it getting worse ?
Unlikely to be ABS (is there any 'kicking' from the brake pedal ?), but surprised you are not feeling any steering pull.
Maybe try replacing the pads to use a different (non corroded) part of the piston where the seal can 'release' ................. but could be a problem with the hydraulics. Not 'cheap', there is some reasonable engineering in here for a budget vehicle.
 

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OK, here goes, 2003 model, .8l engine, 68k miles, owned it for 6 months. I`m not an amateur in the motor trade thats why the brakes have been checked over for the obvious faults with stuck pads or sliders.
Neil,
Having provided you with the Guidance on how and where to complete your personal sign-up and where to place your vehicle details - you either didnt bother to read the Help topic or chose to ignore it all and place the info in the body of a post which simply becomes 'lost' as posts and pages progress (as explained in the Guidance article). This is a typical lead the horse to water but cant make it drink scenario. Helpful Guidance Using the Forum

That aside, the post by Jasta indicates that the recall does not appear to be applicable to your year / variant. Jasta is fairly confident that it is not an ABS module defect. Both Jasta & Matiz24 are probably steering you into the most sensible direction of replacing the front callipers, pads & brake fluid. If that doesnt solve the problem then come back to the Forum.
.
 

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This sounds exactly like my brake problem right down to it being the offside caliper.
See "The season for electrical problems" posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This sounds exactly like my brake problem right down to it being the offside caliper.
See "The season for electrical problems" posting.
no doubt you will also get the suggestions to fire up the parts cannon and replace everything rather than advice from an actual mechanic who knows how to fix things, the trade is ******,, none of the recently qualified have any right to call themselves anything other than fitters, as for forums, keyboard experts abound.
 

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no doubt you will also get the suggestions to fire up the parts cannon and replace everything rather than advice from an actual mechanic who knows how to fix things, the trade is **,, none of the recently qualified have any right to call themselves anything other than fitters, as for forums, keyboard experts abound.
Neil, a couple of posts ago, you told us that you "are not an amateur in the motor trade", this implies that you are a professional within the trade, you also suggest that you have taken advice from (another) professional who "knows how to fix things"
Despite this, neither of you have been able to fix this particular thing, and having turned to a self help forum of people (who make absolutely no claim to be professionals in the field, but are merely interested owners), you then insult and attempt to belittle them.
Nobody here suggested that you "fire up the parts cannon", however YOU did suggest that because yourself and your professional advisor have been unable to solve the problem, you should just scrap it, and blame it's build quality for your inability to either solve the problem yourself. Here is my suggestion:

Take it to your advisor.
Tell him/her to fix it.
Leave your wallet on the counter along with the keys, and invite them to take what they need.
Post a description of the results, and a photo of the bill.
That way you get your car fixed, and we get to learn. Win-win as far as I can see.
 
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Metro, Nicely put ! The one and only thing I agree with in Neil82's post is sadly his comment about the modern day vehicle technician where he says "none of the recently qualified have any right to call themselves anything other than fitter". Everything these days is 'plug it into a box' and blindly believe the diagnosis. There is a woeful lack of old fashioned hands on experience - except those of us who contribute here on this forum (and other forums like it) where we can share our years of experience offering contributions to the benefit of others.
Here we have a member who seven months into his membership still hasnt completed his Sign-Up (despite repeated guidance how to do so) and obtaining details on which year/variant vehicle he has was like trying to get blood out of a stone! Membership of this Forum doesnt come with a crystal ball unfortunately, and for our efforts we receive insulting and offensive remarks such as "as for forums, keyboard experts abound". Such a remark is not warranted especially considering members of this Forum provided details of recall information etc which the OP could have easily looked up for himself. I wonder how many of us are going to rush forward with advice the next time he comes to this Forum.
.
 

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I had the same problem on the rear right caliper (lacetti). I greased the piston 3 times and it lasted 1 year. After I changed it, I looked inside it. The seal housing rusted and squized the seal, so the piston travel was affected. The piston had no rust on it besides 2 points where the coating was damaged. The dust and water seal was also intact.
 
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