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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Unfortunately my little Chevvy has failed it's MOT for the first time in three years. It's a 09 plate with 62k miles on the clock and 7 stamps in the book. I'm in two minds now whether to get the work done or trade it in, it failed on the following,

Brake Pipe excessively corroded - front to back
Brake Pipe excessively corroded - nearside rear
Brake Pipe excessively corroded - offside rear
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Front Lower (rear bush)
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Offside Front Lower (rear bush)
Track Rod end ball joint excessive play Nearside Front

I've not had a quote for the work yet but i'm told somewhere in the region of £500. I was under the impression that the brake lines could be greased which will probably save a few quid?

Does anybody have any ideas on what I can expect to pay please?

Thanks for your help
Dan
 

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Hi Dan, That is disappointing news. It is not clear in your post but it sounds as if you've owned the vehicle for a number of years.
You havent told us where in the UK you are (Location not completed in Sign-Up) and it is probable that pricing may well vary depending where you take it. The simple truth of the matter is that Forum Members, like you, are not for the most part Motor Mechanics and it would be a bold man who would start trying to 'price' the job via the Forum.
Your best approach is to contact some mechanics in the area where you live.

As a new member the following link has some Helpful Tips on the Forum.
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I’d say the £500 you’ve been quoted is reasonable if it includes parts, labour, VAT and the MOT re-test. I’d get them to do both steering track rod ends, like brake discs & pads, road springs, drop links and shock absorbers, they’re better replaced in pairs.

Are you quite sure the car failed its MOT on the brake pipes being corroded and it’s not just an advisory? If it’s definitely a failure then don’t waste time smearing grease over them, have them replaced. The time to clean them off and protect them against corrosion was a few years ago when they were in better condition.
 

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Dan,
The rear brake pipes on these cars is a known weak point. The former Chevrolet dealership advised me of this at MOT 2 years ago. Just recently I was recomissioning mine after lay up since March, and noticed that my rear offside was badly corroded. I've replaced it with a copper one I made up, at the same time as changing the fluid. It's only about 300mm long, so the parts cost is tiny, literally about 75p if that. There is a straight section on it that is exposed to the "line of fire" from the road below, which is why it corrodes. The centre front to rear is a bit more surprising though, but again, not an expensive part.
I don't think those bushings are replaceable, but the whole lower wishbone and balljoint is only a £30 part. Trackrod ends are a £15 part. I would consider that both of these parts could be considered to be a "consumable" on a car of this age.
If you can, remove the rear wheels of your car, and pop out the 40mm bung in the front of the wheel arch. This will allow you to look and feel inside the sill section. Aveos rot out in this area if left untreated (mine were just starting to get surface rust, and have now had the entire inner sills , and all the other box sections re waxed, after removal of the sill cappings, floor has been cleaned and dinitrolled too....)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for your replies, greatly appreciated! The repairs have now been done for a total of £400 incl a retest and tracking. Below is the breakdown for anyone who might want to know,

Brake Pipe excessively corroded - front to back - £12
Brake Pipe excessively corroded - nearside rear £7
Brake Pipe excessively corroded - offside rear £7
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Front Lower (rear bush) £43 for a new arm as it was shot.
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Offside Front Lower (rear bush) £7.69
Track Rod end ball joint excessive play Nearside Front £13.99

Labour: £180

Having now done the work I have decided to let the car go and upgraded to 1.3 LTZ Diesel.

All the best
Dan
 

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Dan, Thanks for taking the time and trouble to come back and furnish us with useful information, many who come on here ask a question, maybe get an answer and then vanish into the ether, stay with us and let us know how it goes with the "new" Aveo. The prices given are much as I expected, and not unreasonable either. I would just say to keep a close eye on the new one as they were only sold in small numbers for a short while, (only about 850 diesels I think), and both parts and expertise will be in short supply. Not that the car is bad, just that you may need to proactively plan maintenance a bit more, and expect it to be at "end of life" rather quicker...

Here is what you missed out on. The start of corrosion inside an Aveo's sill panels.

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