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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I hope someone in the UK can point me in the direction of a supplier of the larger oil sump. I've had a frustrating time trying to fix the oil leak that failed the Matiz' MOT.
I bought a replacement part a year ago, meaning to fix a slow leak, but had to fix it now so, after the usual struggle to get to the nuts in tiny spaces, I pulled off the old sump and tried the new. Wouldn't mate flush with the engine - the oil strainer was hitting the bottom of the sump. I couldn't believe it! How could the part be the wrong size by about 5mm?
I cleaned up the old sump, thinking maybe the leak was from the seal, but when I put oil in sure enough it started dripping out from a tiny hole in the front of the sump. That too was unexpected as most of the corrosion is on the bottom.
So I thought I'd try ordering another sump on ebay as they are cheap enough but, after it was delivered today, it looks to be the exact same too short part I've already got. I haven't tried it physically but have measured it as best I can with a digital caliper - and it's labelled with the same manufacturer; "Trupart".
Co-incidentally I was talking to a delivery driver yesterday about the problem and he said he'd had the same thing - and that there are 3 different sizes of sumps for the Matiz - all with the same part number.
Anyone here know anything about this, and where or how I might source the right part?
 

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Cutter, You need to clarify the year / variant of your vehicle at the very least if you expect Forum support. VITAL to know which engine variant.
You need to complete your Sign-Up location (believed to be UK?) and the vehicle data section both of which you left blank.
The following link has helpful info to read :-
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cutter, You need to clarify the year / variant of your vehicle at the very least if you expect Forum support. VITAL to know which engine variant.
You need to complete your Sign-Up location (believed to be UK?) and the vehicle data section both of which you left blank.
The following link has helpful info to read :-
Thanks for the guidance - sorry I wasn't clear.
My car is a 2005 Chevrolet Matiz 1.0 M200 49Kw/65Hp
 

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Cutter, I think if I was in your situation I would repair the old one. The leak is most probably from a puncture wound from road debris hitting it. You have done the hard part in locating it. So some epoxy resin (once you have thoroughly cleaned it) should patch a small hole (apply only on external surface). Let it harden fully then paint the entire external of the sump with hammerite (or another rust prevention paint). The sump is not a pressurized environment so the repair should hold up for quite a while.

Ed will most probably not agree with my approach, but I am more of a minimalist mechanic and have suffered the issue of buying wrong parts which can be so frustrating, so prefer to re-condition whenever possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cutter, I think if I was in your situation I would repair the old one.
Thanks for the advice, I was wondering about drilling a clean hole where it leaks and fitting a nut and bolt through to seal it, maybe with washers. If I had a welder I'd definitely try that.
Hadn't thought of epoxy - you think it would hold onto the surface?
 

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Drilling is not such a hot idea since it may leave fine metal flakes where your oil can get to it, and they it could knacker your pistons. its too thin to weld so don't try that one. The epoxy will work if you prepare surface well. a bit of wet and dry sandpaper (on outside only) till you can see a dull ring of bare metal. If the hole is a pin prick then epoxy should be ok on its own if bigger you need a bit of plastic (non bio degradable) to act as a cover. A small piece of plastic milk bottle should do (its HDPE), use sandpaper on the side that goes against the sump (to roughen it up) then clean with alcohol to remove any bits. Get a good epoxy glue (not the pound shop stuff) and glue both and clamp together over hole leave 24hrs then unclamp. I would then do another external coat over the repair with epoxy to ensure seal let that harden then paint.

This repair will age as the epoxy will go brittle over time, but you should get 5 years out of it before you have to repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
...you should get 5 years out of it before you have to repeat.
That's probably longer than the rear axle will last - it's suddenly corroding quickly - but that's another job.
I've sent requests to some of the traders on ebay for measurements of their replacement sumps (a couple of more expensive branded makes like JPN) but we'll have to see if they have the time to get me the info. They offer refunds, although I have to pay return postage, and they really don't want you to fit the part and then return it - so I'm left using my callipers to try and compare dimensions, and on the curved/angled surfaces of the sump it's difficult.
I was wondering if I could fill the sumps with measured water to compare the difference, but this is starting to sound mad!
I'll look for the epoxy while I wait for any replies.
 

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isnt the external depth of the sump pan enough to distinguish ? and i assume no adjustment on sump drainer to give you that 5mm....
 

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could try getting a replacement sump drainer to see if you could mod it to fit. Don't think 5mm diff would make a great difference to the amount of oil for the car to circulate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll have to go back under the car to double check on the original, but I'm not sure if it's the angled slope part that's different, with one edge of the strainer hitting that. The deepest part of the sump is where the drain plug resides, and there's a flat area adjacent to that. Probably better if I used pictures but it seems to me the strainer, well at least my strainer, doesn't sit neatly in only the deeper part of the sump - it's quite a wide diameter opening where the mesh is mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
could try getting a replacement sump drainer to see if you could mod it to fit. Don't think 5mm diff would make a great difference to the amount of oil for the car to circulate.
Yes you can see how wide the opening is. It's a very solid pipe - I don't think I could bend the "S" to shorten it. I'd have to cut some of the mesh circle off, if I'm right about one edge hitting the dump. So difficult to tell of course, as it's deep inside the sump when you're trying to fit the sump.
I had to remove one of the two bolts holding the strainer and loosen the other to get the sump off. Such a tight squeeze with the exhaust pipe and a sub-frame bar in the way. I can do it now I know how!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also, of course, there must be a shorter version of the strainer to fit the shorter version of the sump, or else they wouldn't still be selling the one I got. I just don't know if that happened in a certain year after mine was made - or how to track that down.
 

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Mark, I have no problem with your suggestion of 'patching' the existing hole. I've previously repaired similar situations using suitable nut & bolt with fibre or leather washers under a steel washer clamping the leather/fibre washer. To me that would have been the 'First aid' approach while deciding where to get the correct part. Many a 'temporary' has outlived the product use.
 

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Welding up a rusty sump on a 6 year old car:



My ex-partner and Mother of my daughters has just bought the younger girl a 15,000 mile 2015 MG3. Here is it's last MOT from a few months ago:
It has of course been repaired, but **** fire I don't fancy it's chances of getting to 15 years old and having a rusty rear beam.....

Font Parallel Screenshot Number Magenta
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just to update - I've had responses from two of the traders I emailed but they're limited to repeating the information I gave them; "we can confirm that this is the correct part number for your model". They obviously don't have the time to actually check the measurements or, like me, didn't believe one part number can have slightly different sizes.

I looked at the epoxy I already had and found it was only rated to 80 C, so I ordered some JB Weld High Heat online and, after wire brushing/cleaning, have used that - it's curing now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For your entertainment:

I'd already fitted the original part back on the car before locating the leak, cleaned it up and with a silicone gasket, when I was under the car applying the epoxy fix and saw the "O" ring on the ground. "What is that?" I thought, and then the penny dropped. It's the rubber O ring seal that sits between the oil strainer and the crankcase. Somehow in all the fiddling with trying to manoeuvre the sump back into place without knocking the silicone gasket off, and waggling the oil strainer into place, I'd obviously lost the O ring.
I don't think you can teach this level of incompetence. It takes years of being useless.
So now I've had to take the sump back off; all those fiddly nuts using 1/4" sockets and the universal joint, with an extension - and even an extension on the extension bodged with a 1/4" socket; drive a chisel into the join between sump and crankcase to break the silicone seal; undo the oil strainer, without losing the nuts, enough to pull, push and cajole the sump off again. Then I get to confirm; yes, it really is the strainer O ring I found on the floor, as it slots back into place.
What an idiot.
I suppose it could have been worse - the O ring might have fallen into the sump and I'd wouldn't have discovered it. But that wouldn't have been so funny - nor would the outcome probably.
 

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Cutter, there probably not a single one of us who have tackled a mechanical, DIY or similar task and not made a b*lls up somewhere.
I remember 40+years ago measuring for venetian blinds. Come the big unveiling of letting them down they stopped 50mm short of the window sill.
Why??........I hadnt added the 50mm for the size of measuring the tape body !! Life is full of experiences, some just more frustrating than others !
 

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Cutter, Congrats on your successful fix. It may have been a bumpy ride but the main thing is you did the job. A car is nothing but a money pit, the only thing you can try to do is minimize the cost (without sacrificing safety) of keeping it on the road. Mechanics charge about £60 per hour so rejoice in all that money you have saved. Also there is the satisfaction of overcoming those challenges that impeded your progress. I would echo Ed's sentiments that we have all done (and still do) errors and mistakes when doing even the simplest jobs on cars (so you are not alone).

you can now wear that oil stained shirt with pride showing you were victorious in your mechanical quest..... (queue - last night of the proms music theme) ...
 
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