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Guys, I need some help please.

I have a 2007 Captiva 2L diesel. It is making a noise that sounds like ""Shhhhick""� from 1900 to 2000 rpm. This only happens under medium acceleration. I can baby it or gun it passed these rpms and it doesn't make the noise. I can't replicate the noise with it in neutral, but can with the hand brake on and in gear.

I have checked all the hoses relating to turbo and can't see any holes.

Apart from this issue she is running well.

Anyone else had this problem? Or a fix?

Cheers!

Sorry, forgot to add that this noise doesn't happen when car is going through the DPF re-gen. mmmmm strange.
Edited by: Murphy
 

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Guys, just a FYI for anyone with this problem. I tracked it down to a split egr cooler. Blanked off the egr and noise gone plus more power.


You can reach the bottom egr valve bolts through the passenger's front wheel arch. (after taking the wheel off).Edited by: Murphy
 

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I haven't read the codes since doing it. There are no warning lights on the dash though.

She is driving better than ever now.
 

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Doing some reading, it seems that the EGR can be blanked off or "deleted" in the software. It does however seem that the EGR is part of the DPF regeneration process and is therefore not recommended if the DPF has not been deleted as well??
 

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The ECU commands the EGR to remain closed throughout the entire DPF regeneration.
The exhaust temperature has to be raised to around 600 - 650 degrees to burn off the accumulated matter in the DPF. The EGR valve lowers the combustion temperature so they (the DPF regeneration cycle and the EGR recirculation of exhaust gases) would be at cross purposes. Go ahead and delete or blank off yours if you wish, the web is full of advice about the pros and cons of it. It's not often mentioned but, if you do, beware of fuel detonation during the power stroke.
 

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Hi not sure if I should start a post or continue from here, please advise if I should start a new post.

My captiva 2.0 diesel is having the same issue. The engine is having this loud squealing noise came out of nowhere out of sudden. It started when I accelerate to 2000 rpm and above, but after a few months it keeps on as long as I pressed the pedal. There's no engine check light, power lost, engine vibrating or other sort of abnormal sign. Went to workshop changed the fan belt, pulley, tensioner, alternator pulley, full set of timing kit and the noise still persist. Dismantled and check the turbocharger everything seems to be ok, just minor wear and tear (just replaced this brand new turbocharger 3 years back). What problem could be? It's driving me crazy 😩

the noise
 

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Hi Jackman,
Your post is fine where it is as the Caption meets your description. It avoids duplicating another Topic heading.
As for a solution you will see in Murphys post (#4 Sept 13 2017) he resolved the problem by identifying a split EGR cooler and blanked off EGR. There is however no saying that your problem is the same!

As a new Forum user the following link provides some helpful tips and advice especially completing your Full location and Vehicle Details in your Signature/Footer.
.
 

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Hello Jackman and welcome to the forum. Kudos for doing a bit of research and utilising an existing thread and also for making the video and posting the link.

To me, that noise sounds like drive belt squeal. It could be slippage caused by insufficient grip between the belt and the driving pulleys or one of the driven components (tensioner, alternator, water pump, power steering pump or air compressor) that's starting to seize up.

Drive belts are no longer V belts, they're flat grooved belts with corresponding grooves in the pulleys so they need the right tension. Although you list all the bits that's been changed it might be one of them that's at fault, especially if they fitted el cheapo parts. Drive belts in particular, sometimes it's best to go with the GM part.

Is the noise any different when you put on an electrical load?

Is the noise any different when you put on the air conditioning?

Is your power steering fluid level OK?

Does it make any difference if you spray water over the belts while the engine's running? Some peopple use WD40 butI I don't. If the noise disappears for a little while after you've sprayed it then you might want to buy an aerosol of belt dressing and spray that on, sometimes it helps. .
 

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Hello Jackman and welcome to the forum. Kudos for doing a bit of research and utilising an existing thread and also for making the video and posting the link.

To me, that noise sounds like drive belt squeal. It could be slippage caused by insufficient grip between the belt and the driving pulleys or one of the driven components (tensioner, alternator, water pump, power steering pump or air compressor) that's starting to seize up.

Drive belts are no longer V belts, they're flat grooved belts with corresponding grooves in the pulleys so they need the right tension. Although you list all the bits that's been changed it might be one of them that's at fault, especially if they fitted el cheapo parts. Drive belts in particular, sometimes it's best to go with the GM part.

Is the noise any different when you put on an electrical load?

Is the noise any different when you put on the air conditioning?

Is your power steering fluid level OK?

Does it make any difference if you spray water over the belts while the engine's running? Some peopple use WD40 butI I don't. If the noise disappears for a little while after you've sprayed it then you might want to buy an aerosol of belt dressing and spray that on, sometimes it helps. .
Thanks Victor.

Someone from other forum has taught me to run the engine without the drive belt, unfortunately the noise still persist. So this eliminated the belt issue. Too bad i learnt this only after I replace the belt, pulleys and tensioner, spent almost a thousand Malaysia dollars (about 188 GBP)

The noise occurred as long as I pedal, didn't seem to have any different with or w/o electrical load and air conditioning.

Power steering fluid level OK.

Spray water and used WD40 as well, both didn't make any different.

Just got an update from my turbocharger workshop, the compressor wheel's fin has some minor damage, but the shaft is well intact (with standard minor free play), will this caused such squealing noise?
 

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Hi Jackman,
Your post is fine where it is as the Caption meets your description. It avoids duplicating another Topic heading.
As for a solution you will see in Murphys post (#4 Sept 13 2017) he resolved the problem by identifying a split EGR cooler and blanked off EGR. There is however no saying that your problem is the same!

As a new Forum user the following link provides some helpful tips and advice especially completing your Full location and Vehicle Details in your Signature/Footer.
.
Thanks Aussie Ed! Will explore the EGR blanking method.
 

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Hi Jackman! The damage on your turbo wheel is not minor, they have to be perfectly balanced and that kind of damage could make it touch the turbo housing. Also the noise could come from that kind of damage. My recommendation is to go to a turbo recondition service and have the turbo rebuilt, usually is not very expensive (~350USD), at least in my country (Romania). This way you will prevent expensive issues in the future.
 

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Hi all, thanks for the input. Got my car back yesterday from the mechanic, problem solved at last after I'm almost giving up. The last try was I get the mechanic to check on the EGR and exhaust system for any fault, leak or block, but all seems to be in normal. So I asked him to put back all the parts and just carry on with the noise as most feedback were the noise sounds like air whining and not mechanical part failure. Anyhow I also replaced the PCV valve gasket, EGR gaskets, turbo gasket and exhaust manifold gasket as these parts were damaged when dismantling. To our surprise the noise has gone after we resembled back the parts. Should I feel lucky? 😅
 

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Hi Jackman! The damage on your turbo wheel is not minor, they have to be perfectly balanced and that kind of damage could make it touch the turbo housing. Also the noise could come from that kind of damage. My recommendation is to go to a turbo recondition service and have the turbo rebuilt, usually is not very expensive (~350USD), at least in my country (Romania). This way you will prevent expensive issues in the future.
Hi Ches, thanks for the advise! I got the quote for replacing the wheel only (not CHRA) for ard 130USD.
 

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Jackman, Appreciate the report back on 'solution' albeit it will never be known for sure which component caused it. It is a pity when solutions are 'accidental'. Throw enough parts at a vehicle and something will solve it but can be costly and frustrating.
Gaskets are difficult to pinpoint because you cant see them between mating faces. I had a problem which was diagnosed by GM dealer as defective throttle body. After taking it off, it turned out to be the gasket had 'burnt' on one side - nothing wrong with the throttle body at all !!
 
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