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I own a 57 Reg Captiva LT which has done 50,000. I drive about 500 miles a week consisting mainly of a 70 daily round tripto work on main roads at 55-60 mph.
Last year I took the car to a local Chevrolet dealer when I got an engine fault light and the car went into limp mode. They told me it was a low fuel pressure warning but they couldn't find anything wrong and cleared the code.
When the service manager handed the car back to me he asked me how long I'd had the "knocking". I said I wasn't aware of any and the car just sounded like a diesel to me. My last car was an Omega 2.5 litre V6 and I'd always had big petrol engined cars.
He made me listen and said if it got worse I should have it looked at. From then on I was listening for it all the time.
3000 miles later I had it serviced by my local garage. I asked them to listen out for the noise and tell me what they thought. They reported back that they thought an engine flush had sorted it.
After that service the change engine oil light started coming on every 500-600 miles. I took it back to the garage who showed me how to reset it. Knowing when the oil was changed I assumed it was a sensor fault and just kept resetting it.
The knocking never went away and I was convinced it might be getting worse. Just before Christmas I put my foot down to overtake something - big noise, lots of smoke and loss of power. It turned out one of the injectors had workedloose. My local garage tightened it down. Still had thenoise and the change oil light coming on every 500 miles or so.
After Christmas, convinced theknocking was getting worse, I took it to the Chevrolet dealer for them to have a look at. They had it the whole day, checked everything, found nothing wrong and charged me £300.
In March I started getting a lot of dark smoke from the exhaust. Mainly when I ut my foot down to overtake something but also when pulling away and even sometimes just idling. The car also kept going into limp mode and the engine waring light would come on.
My local garage said the fault code was down to the EGR valve and replaced it. It didn't help. They told me the EGR's were a pain in the arse and suggested blanking it off. Which they did - made no difference.
Then a different fault code suggested and air intake problem so they cleaned that all out. No change.
So I decided to take the car to a different Chevrolet dealer (a big one this time). Without seeing or hearing the car the service manager said "I bet you've got the wrong oil in it".
After they'd checked and run the Scan100 he said "Yep it's got 5w30 and it should be 5w40 that's why the change oil light is coming on. So they changed the oil.
They said although the EGR valve had been replaced the EGR solenoid was sticking and that was causing the smoking. They freed it but warned it might need replacing if it siezed up again.
They also advised me that the engine was excessively noisy and that was most likely due to using the wrong oil and that they may have to open her up to check camshafts etc. for wear.
That was last week. The smoking seemed better for a few days but then went back to how it was and yesterday the change oil light came back on - after just over 500 miles.
I rang them today and they said"well we did tell you the engine might be damaged because it had the wrong oil you'll need to book it in so we check for damage"

I've read the posts on here about change oil light problems relating to DPF's and regeneration. I don't think this is my issue because of te type of drivng I do.

I'm not a mechanic but I used to play with cars a bit when I was younger/cars were simpler and none of this rings true to me.
I find it incredible that the difference between 5w30 and 5w40 is so great it can damage my engine. Especially as the service book recommends the thicker oil in warmer countries anyway - isn't it just as likely to be a faulty sensor.
Surely to make a diesel go you only need air, fuel and compression. The little Chevrolet dealer tested the compression, my local garage checked the air intake so given the injector that popped out isn't it possible to be an injector or timing problem?

Sorry for such a long first post but any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. All the professional resources have not managed to solve the problem and I'm getting frustrated.
The sad thing is that although this is not the greatest car in the world it does exactly what I need it to do. It's the right size, power, cost etc. - just a shame nobody can fix it.

Andrew.
 

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Hi Andrew
Sorry but I can't offer a great deal of help except to say that I've just been to check the oil I've been using for the last couple of oil changes and it is a 5W-30! It meets all the other specs (of which there are quite a few - including the price!!) as per the handbook but I just hadn't noticed it wasn't a 5W-40. So far (!) I've not noticed any engine problems (20,000 miles covered on this oil so far). I thought that the numbers referred to the ambient temperature range that the engine has to operate in (that's what it seems to suggest in the handbook) and as we hardly ever get above 30C I assumed we are OK - butI could be (disastrously!) wrong of course. As for the "wandering" injector - all I can say is I've changed diesel injectors [not on a Captiva tho'] and there is no way one can "pop out" unless there is something very wrong with the way it was installed in the first place. Is it worth going back to where you bought the car and raising the issue with them?

Not much help Andrew - sorry. Let us know how you get on.
 

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Hi - all UK Captivas are supposed to use 5w/30 synthetic oil. Absolutely, definitely, no question about it.

When I bought mine I decided from the outset to change the oil every 7,000 - 8,000 miles (about halfway between annual dealer services) because I don't believe in letting any TDi go for long periods on the same oil.

I checked with Chevrolet about any possible warranty violation by having an oil change done by a non-franchised garage, and was clearly told that as long as I used genuine GM 5w/30 synthetic oil and a genuine GM filter there would be no problem.

I bought several 5 litre containers of the genuine oil from Ebay for a bargain price (I had a suspaicion that a GM mechanic was selling it on the side) and on the two occasions when I had the intermediate oil change done I took the oil and a filter to my local garage, who then did the deed.

My own thought was that the 5w/30 oil is (usually) outrageously expensive - and I rather doubted whether the Chevrolet garage was using the stuff at the official service, particularly so because I had a free service package which meant even less profit for the dealer.

Garages tend to buy their oil by the drum - and they will often buy whatever is on offer from their supplier. If a non 5w/30 oil was going cheap, would they use it?.

You bet they would! (imo)

As far as determining the grade of oil via a scan tool - they're having a laugh. It *is* perfectly possible to find out the oil grade - but not by running an electronic diagnosis ;)

Anyway - they merely confirmed that your car *was* using the correct grade of oil - it sounds as if they're looking for an excuse to raid your wallet.

EDIT - I don't want to alarm you unduly, but a Google search revealed some information about camshaft failure on the 2.0 diesel Captiva engines at/around 100,00km. As you doubtless know, if a cam breaks on an interference engine you have got a major problem - it might be worth having it checked by a competent garage (probably not the ones who 'diagnosed' the oil)

http://www.chevroletcruzeforum.com/index.php?/topic/668-engine-quality/ (the last post in the thread seems informative) and it's mentioned on an Australian (Holden) form as well





Edited by: Captivabits
 

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Sorry, but the correct grade is 5w40 fully synthetic and AECA C3 approved for vehicles with catalysts. The only reasonable oil that I have found is Castrol Edge at about £28 for 5 litres from Costco.
That said, any oil that isn't way outside the grading shouldn't make that much difference to the engine itself in normal day to day running. The C2 stuff is purely around the catalyst life.

And it the scan tool can tell the difference between 5w30 and 5w40, my hoover has a degree in maths.

Iain

Edited by: bigiainw
 

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bigiainw said:
Sorry, but the correct grade is 5w40 fully synthetic and AECA C2 approved for vehicles with catalysts. The only reasonable oil that I have found is Castrol Edge at about £28 for 5 litres from Costco.
That said, any oil that isn't way outside the grading shouldn't make that much difference to the engine itself in normal day to day running. The C2 stuff is purely around the catalyst life.

And it the scan tool can tell the difference between 5w30 and 5w40, my hoover has a degree in maths.

Iain


Nope - it's 5w/30 for all UK diesel Captivas (at least, it is so for all models up to and inclusing 09 - after that things migt have changed, I dunno - but up to 09 it's 5w/30 - you can bet your house, your car, your wife, and your wife's mother on it ;)

Check the handbook.
 

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Sorry to burst your bubble, but it clearly states in the manual for my 08 captiva that 5w40 with the C3 AECA rating is the correct grade. Please see the scan from my manual below. 5w30 is for the 2.4 petrol




Edited by: bigiainw
 

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Oil for my 2.0 Diesel Epica which i believe is exactly the same engine as that fitted to the Captiva's is ACEA C3 5W-40 or 0W-40
 

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I had this issue. Just bought a 2010 model LTZ. Awesome vehicle. Very pleased with it. When I took it for a visual inspection at St Albans Chevrolet, I was told the engine oil was half level and needed a top up.


called the last Chevrolet garage to service it and they said they used Vauxhall brand 5W-30 fully synth. But when I entered my number plate on Castrol UK's website, it said it needed 5W-40. I spoke to vauxhall and they said it is OK to mix the two for a top up but on the next oil change insist on 5W-40.



Castrol confirmed on two seperate occasions that for my model 2.0 LTZ Auto 2010 that 5w-30 was incorrect (albeit acceptable) and that I MUST use 5W-40.



I have topped up and mixed the two but will continue with 40 going forward. It also corresponds with the owners manual.



Not sure why Cevrolet UK cut costs by selling cars with 5W-30 when they know 40 is the recommended option.
 

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I would be tempted to supply my own oil if they're at that game- if you have a costco card it'll be cheaper too!
 

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You know what??? That's exactly my game plan. BUT!!!!

I pay monthly for the Service Advantage plan and know I wont get any money back for using my own oil.

First I will take it up with Chevy UK and ask them to justify the choice of oil they use when it is in contradiction to the owners manual and the advice of CASTROL technical labs.

I'll let you know the outcome. Watch this space.
 

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Quite simple.


Get a local garage to do your servicing.... I do. I dont go to a franchise, and the owner/mechanic there buys the oil when needed at the correct spec. No big drums of oil in his garage.
 

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bigiainw said:
Sorry to burst your bubble, but it clearly states in the manual for my 08 captiva that 5w40 with the C3 AECA rating is the correct grade. Please see the scan from my manual below. 5w30 is for the 2.4 petrol




Well, there you go - I could swear that my 08 (09 model year) handbook specified 5w-30 for the diesel - and that's what Chris Bus (Chevrolet's technical manager at the time) confirmed when I spoke to him.

In fact, the were very specific about it - I told them I was going to do intermediate oil changes, and they said OK - but use genuine GM 5W-30.

Not to worry, anyway- it's gone now, so I won't lose any sleep over it.
 

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There are variations on the various oil companies websites themselves.
Here in Carmarthen, the dealer had never had a car in that used 0w40 as I requested for my last epica vcdiservice, as per the handbook, which says I can use 5w40 or 0w40. (they
did get it in for me, special order) Yet I have got the same engine as the Captiva. if you check the various websites of the oil companies and opie and europarts you will get a dogs dinner of suggestions. In response to my request Chevrolet UK confirm that the oils MUST reach GM dexos 2 specs, so that's mobil 1 dexos 2 turbo diesel for me then.

I would urge anyone to agree the grade of oil being used before main dealer servicing, then less problems, but problems do happen, as a st albans dealer used part synthetic 15w40 (it's wot we uses in vauxhalls with the same engine sir... (but it is NOT the same engine) happily they refunded me and the oil was changed elsewhere under my supervision this time!)



For the probems with the car, if you can afford it , trade it for another one, as i suspect that at some point your car was filled with 15w40 like mine, but mine got changed the next day before doing too many miles.

Good luck!
 

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Evans halshaw DID do the warranty work correctly however, (must say that for them!) and service reception were apologetic, so they are forgiven. But if you want an intermediate oil change national tyres use castrol edge 5w40, for about £50, but I only use genuine chevrolet oil filters.

If you don't supply the oil they'll get 2 x 4 litre packs and will charge you £55 +vat each, that what happened here with my mobil 1 dexos 2,so check first!

Happy motoring,
PS, I have had the epica now for 1 year today, and apart from the initial niggles when it was delivered without being inspected it is a delight , 45mpg+ at motorway speeds, generally better than 40 on local runs, and very comfortable on long runs, off to belgium again soon.

 

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As stated on an earlier thread my Captiva had to get an interim oil change at 1400 miles, the dealer which did the change were unable to tell me what oil they used, I got no help from Chevrolet the sai that the dealer in Fife had used an approved oil, although it was not Dexos 2. I have noticed that my fuel consumption has got worse since this change, I can only assume that the used a thicker oil. My dealer in Linwood althhough not being able to tell me what grade of oil did reasure me that the car sensor did not say that the oil had to be changed, although it was noticed that the Fife dealer had overfilled it. NB. my DPF and CAT get removed on Tuesday!
 

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Let us know how you get on Evo- there might be a queue...
 
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