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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I now start the car the orange oil change light with the spanner beside it comes on and then goes off after about 60 seconds of driving.
I only have the car 9 months and the dealer "assured" me he did a full service plus I have only done 4000 miles in those 9 months so the oil would not be ready for changing.
I checked oil level and it is full.
The light used to go out after a few seconds when starting up to now.
Totally confused by this.
Anyone have any ideas,
Plus where is the menu button on the front panel for going through all the various bits and pieces.
 

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When I now start the car the orange oil change light with the spanner beside it comes on and then goes off after about 60 seconds of driving.
I only have the car 9 months and the dealer "assured" me he did a full service plus I have only done 4000 miles in those 9 months so the oil would not be ready for changing.
I checked oil level and it is full.
The light used to go out after a few seconds when starting up to now.
Totally confused by this.
Anyone have any ideas,
Plus where is the menu button on the front panel for going through all the various bits and pieces.

What you are describing is typically one of two things; (i) incorrect engine oil used by the dealer, or more than likely (ii) oil dilution by the DPF function allowing engine diesel fuel into the sump - normally due to repeated semi aborted DPF regenerations. Diluted engine oil looses its protective viscosity and hence the protective oil pressure is lost.

The clues are your defined low mileage (diesel DPF's dont like limited use and short journeys); the fact that oil level is still showing high on the dip-stick is a pointer to dilution of engine oil by fuel.

Third and remote possibility is you may have a failing oil pressure warning sensor.

I would change the engine oil with the correct grade (probably 5-W30 C3 Dexos2 classification - double check this in your Handbook).

Lots of previous similar discussions are on File.



Operation of Drivers Information Centre (DIC) will be found in your Handbook also.



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What you are describing is typically one of two things; (i) incorrect engine oil used by the dealer, or more than likely (ii) oil dilution by the DPF function allowing engine diesel fuel into the sump - normally due to repeated semi aborted DPF regenerations. Diluted engine oil looses its protective viscosity and hence the protective oil pressure is lost.

The clues are your defined low mileage (diesel DPF's dont like limited use and short journeys); the fact that oil level is still showing high on the dip-stick is a pointer to dilution of engine oil by fuel.

Third and remote possibility is you may have a failing oil pressure warning sensor.

I would change the engine oil with the correct grade (probably 5-W30 C3 Dexos2 classification - double check this in your Handbook).

Lots of previous similar discussions are on File.



Operation of Drivers Information Centre (DIC) will be found in your Handbook also.



.
So if I got the oil changed Ed would it put a stop to this.
Just a little add on,i drove the car 4 or 5 miles and stopped for diesel and when I started up again the light went out immediately
One other point.
The car is up and down the motorway 4 times a week and that is really the only driving it gets.
I do a round trip of 70 miles each time and I do hammer it on,70-80mph with the rev counter sitting near 2000 revs.I would have thought those high revs would be ample enough to burn off any residue.
 

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So if I got the oil changed Ed would it put a stop to this.

You asked for ideas which is what I have given. I cant offer a definitive answer.
If there is no way of knowing which grade of engine oil was used by the dealer (meeting GM's standard) then that to me is the first obvious thing to consider.

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The car is up and down the motorway 4 times a week and that is really the only driving it gets.
I do a round trip of 70 miles each time and I do hammer it on,70-80mph with the rev counter sitting near 2000 revs.I would have thought those high revs would be ample enough to burn off any residue.
Gambity, I think you are misunderstanding the DPF regeneration cycle how and when it takes place.
Full 'active' DPF regeneration will only take place when all conditions are met by the appropriate numerous sensors.
Simply running up and down a motorway may only be doing a modest 'passive' DPF clean and possibly no cleaning what so ever! You may only be adding 'soot & combustion particles' to the DPF.

I have given my suggestions based upon your described original post. If other forum members have alternative suggestions then I'm sure they will provide them.


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I take it the orange oil change light with the spanner beside is the service vehicle soon light (on the Antara I have an oil pressure light and the service light). If the dealers you bought the car from did actually perform a service, inc engine oil and filter change, they may not have re-set the service light. In fact they wouldn't be able to re-set it unless they have the right diagnostic software programme. You might have to take it to a suitably equipped garage to have the light re-set or buy a copy of Opcom and re-set it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I take it the orange oil change light with the spanner beside is the service vehicle soon light (on the Antara I have an oil pressure light and the service light). If the dealers you bought the car from did actually perform a service, inc engine oil and filter change, they may not have re-set the service light. In fact they wouldn't be able to re-set it unless they have the right diagnostic software programme. You might have to take it to a suitably equipped garage to have the light re-set or buy a copy of Opcom and re-set it yourself.

But that service was done 8 months ago when I bought the car.If they didn't reset it then surely it would have come on straight after service and not eight months later.
 

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But that service was done 8 months ago when I bought the car.If they didn't reset it then surely it would have come on straight after service and not eight months later.
Maybe they didn't service the vehicle at all. Maybe it was serviced 4 months before you bought it and the service light was re-set at that time and now, chronologically it's telling you it's due for a service.The service light could also be a warning there's something wrong with your car but you don't report any faults and apparently there's no fault codes showing.
 

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But that service was done 8 months ago when I bought the car.If they didn't reset it then surely it would have come on straight after service and not eight months later.

Either not serviced at all or oil dilution as others have said. Though could you comment on the following :

When you have completed your journey and switched off the engine, have the fans continued to run? If yes then you have interrupted a DPF regeneration.
When you have idled in traffic have you seen the Rev tachometer increase idle towards 900 rpm? If yes then this is a indication that the DPF regeneration cycle had started.

Above applied to my former 63 plate facelift automatic Captiva.
 
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Victor,
Very good point you have made concerning the possible failure of the dealer to reset the service setting.

My previous response was based upon the 'Service' having been carried out correctly and the reset activated correctly.

I'm still of the opinion that if the service records do not define the grade / classification of engine oil used previously then to make progress in eliminating the potential cause of the oil warning light, then the cost of an oil & filter change is relatively insignificant compared to starting to explore other causes.

If fresh (correct) oil with a reset doesnt resolve the warning lamp, then the next potential culprit could be the oil sensor which is also relatively inexpensive.

This looks as if it is really only resolvable by a process of elimination. My philosophy is to work on the simpler and least expensive solution(s) first. Then if not resolved dig a bit further if necessary.

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Would it be possible to check when the car was serviced last time. Maybe the light is indicating that it is time to change the engine oil. I think the interval for oil change is 15.000km or 12 months?. Mine has done the same as i forgot to reset the service light.
DPF regeneration should be completed as Scouse- Mafia said but there might be another warning light in case regeneration is
interrupted too many times. (?). Could too many interruptions cause mix of diesel in engine oil and lead to too high oil level ??
 

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Could too many interruptions [to DPF regenerations] cause mix of diesel in engine oil and lead to too high oil level ??
The answer is yes.

The DPF regeneration process deployed by GM on the Captiva involves various sensors detecting when regeneration is required. This then activates an additional fuel injection sequence on the exhaust stroke so that fuel enterers the DPF so as to aide the 'burn' process of the collected soot. Repeated 'aborts' of this regeneration sequence allows unburnt fuel to be washed past the cylinder rings into the sump.
Hence the engine sump oil becomes polluted (diluted) and the protective viscosity of the engine oil is compromised.

This is a simplified description.

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I had that on mine! Changed the oil, had the light reset ( had to pay a local garage as the accelerator thing does not work on facelift) Never saw it again
 

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I had that on mine! Changed the oil, had the light reset ( had to pay a local garage as the accelerator thing does not work on facelift) Never saw it again
Totally agree. My Beer money is on new oil 5-W30 C3 Dexos2 solving this one (along with a lamp reset).

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I absolutely hate this [email protected]@@ing car
After a week of light continuing to come on,it has suddenly reverted back to normal the past 4 days
Goes straight off with all the other lights after car starts,
I have it booked into dealers on Monday for inspection.
Was wondering when they plug their computer in can it tell them when the light was coming on.
 

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Gambity, How did the visit to your garage go? Have they retrieved any stored codes and what were their findings or suggestions as to the problem you've experienced?

The 'disappearing act' of the lamp illumination was typically unhelpful just when you needed to show them !

I noted that your weather in Northern Ireland over the past few days has been decidedly cooler/stormy and I was wondering if the cooler temperature has had a slight influence on the oil viscosity and hence the disappearance of the lamp.

The other possibility is a possible 'sticky' oil pressure sensor has 'un-stuck' itself.

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My handbook says that "Oil change light" can be reset as follows:
1. Remove ignition key from the lock over one minute. Then switch the ignition on ( dont start the engine).
2. Do as follows:

1) Push the acceleration pedal into the bottom and keep it there 2 seconds.
2) Release the pedal and take your food from the pedal for 2 seconds.
3) Repeat the above 1) and 2) two more times in a period of one minute.

I may be one step behind and this is already known by everybody but i may also have long wires....
 

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That procedure may work for the Series 1 Antara / Captiva with the 2 litre engine but the Series 2 Antara / Captiva with the 2.2 engine needs to have the oil light re-set via diagnostics . See link
 

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My handbook says that "Oil change light" can be reset as follows:
1. Remove ignition key from the lock over one minute. Then switch the ignition on ( dont start the engine).
2. Do as follows:

1) Push the acceleration pedal into the bottom and keep it there 2 seconds.
2) Release the pedal and take your food from the pedal for 2 seconds.
3) Repeat the above 1) and 2) two more times in a period of one minute.

I may be one step behind and this is already known by everybody but i may also have long wires....

This does not work on the series two! You will make a hole in your floor trying it :)
 

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Had a similar issue on mine.
Grey Automotive tire Font Asphalt Rectangle

Car with spanner came up. Two errors. One was the brake switch which needed cleaning and the other was the oil pressure switch at fault. Looked at it today and found the wire devoid of insulation. It probably touched the chassis and gave a false reading. Fingers crossed...
 
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