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- service vehicle soon lights up.
If the Service reset wasnt activated on the service prior to you purchasing the vehicle then it could simply be in need of a service and/or the System Reset.

This was discussed in another post in the past 7-10 days. Service Reset was actioned and power loss resolved.
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Thank you for the comforting words. As I mentioned, i drove up the steep hill for hours. It got power like crazy. And now I went in the city traffic and it does this... I hope it is something minor.
 

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Diagnostics is on Friday. What about until then? I am too anxious. What are the odds to be the transmission?
Well it could be. Your vehicle footer data doesnt tell us mileage (always helpful to include this in Footer) but from the year build it would by now have been prudent to have had the ATF replaced. Do previous owner Service records indicate if this has ever been replaced? Transmission fluid which is old/cooked/burnt/low will adversely affect gearbox.

Likewise loss of power can be blocked air filter, or even a 'soft' air intake pipe - see the discussions further earlier in this post by Mondas. If the weather is exceptionally hot, travelling around city traffic with reduce airflow the intake pipe can become so soft to collapse in.
Choked up fuel filters can be a potential cause also. Lots of possible 'maybes'.
 

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I didnt include the mileage because i dont know it. Sellers in my country tend to reverse it so what says on the dash is useless. Currently it shows 170k km, but who knows. I went to diagnostics and the guy there said it is possible to be true. I know about the oil and i will have it changed on Friday. There are no service records ofcourse. I did not have much money left to change it right away. I am bit scared, because many ppl are telling me that it could get worse if i change it and the gearbox already have started to go. Anyways.. i guess i will know for sure on Friday. Stranger thing is i just drove it again. I has normal power, no lights. Drives in reverse and forward as usual. No bumps or anything. Gears changing..
 

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Sash, If you are going to have the ATF flushed and refilled be aware that there is a very specific sequence of events which must be complied with. Details on this procedure are recorded in a Forum post about 4 years ago but it includes lifting the vehicle with all four wheels free to turn; the fluid will not all drain out because some will be trapped in the internal voids. To do the task properly it should then have more fluid added and drained a couple of times so as to 'dilute' the trapped fluid. Each time the engine and gears should be run so as to 'shift' the internal components and move trapped fluid.
The ATF is an expensive fluid (here in UK anyway) so you are using some of it simply for flushing! From memory you will only get about half contents to freely drain out each time. I cant see what damage is likely in using new better viscosity fluid.

The really cheap way of doing an ATF 'part change' is to simply drain out as much of the old as possible (save it and measure it - this is important so as to know how much came out) introduce a drain tube if you can and then top back up to the filler access plug (vehicle must be level) . This method will not circulate the old fluid. It is simply a static 'top up'.

The following link has various discussions. I'll leave you to read them as they may assist your thoughts/action.
Search results for query: draining ATF

As an addition; you mentioned going up in the mountains. Do make sure that no stone or rocks damage has occurred to the ATF oil cooler lines under the front of the vehicle and that the ATF cooler rad is clear of debris. Restricted flow by squashed or dented cooler lines of ATF will hinder it being cooled.
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Ed,

Your oil replacing method sounds exactly how it was described to me by the mechanic on the phone. I am going to the official Chevrolet dealership here in Sofia. They said, they strictly follow the procedure provided to them by Chevrolet. However changing the oil will be useless if the transmission is already toast.

I did not go off road, its just my mountain house is high up. The road to there is normal - asphalt, so i haven't broken anything. And i drove it a lot in the city the passed two days. The problem only accrued today. ****, i knew it i should save more money and buy a more expensive Captiva.
 

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Sash, It sounds as if your dealer is a knowledgeable dealership and that my description was reasonably accurate.
If the transmission is already damaged no one can predict. Usually transmission failure reported on this forum has been pretty much instant and terminal on the spot. The fact that you are now describing normal operation is a promising indicator that it is not pending transmission failure.
 

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So I went for about an our drive in the city. I drove slow, fast, uphill, downhill, in traffic, on the ring road, in reverse. Nothing. No issues, no lights on the dashboard. I just dunno.
 

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Sashmeister, take into consideration a sticky EGR valve, when it remains open the engine is gutless until it reaches a higher rpm.
 
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Update:

They have changed the transmission fluid. Ran diagnostics. Said no errors at all, except for some minor airbag error, which they said was not important. And thats it. Went home. Cause still unknown.
 

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Some updates on this issue. In the past one month i went once to the sea, once to the lake (trailer attached with a boat on it), once to the mountain - no issues what so ever. In the meantime i have replaced everything - engine oil and all filters except for the fuel filter. The mechanic said the fuel filter was brand new and that probably somebody made repairs to the fuel system. All other filters and the engine oil were very bad and old. Today i drove around the city in the traffic - light comes on. It went on twice. It goes away after i turn off the car and start it again. I noticed it goes on when the car is stationary, on a red light, or when it just started moving. It was very warm today as well, but same was at the seaside few weeks ago.. So I dunno. Today was Sunday, so no mechanics around. I think ima go drive around the block tomorrow for my lunch break and if the light turns on i will limp to the repair shop without turning it off. Apparently if you turn the car off the error deletes.

About that intake air pipe, is it that big thing to the left side of the engine when you look at the car from the front? Could anybody post a pic what could be "collapsed" there?
 
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