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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My Captiva has been resting since the beginning of April. Today i took it back to service as my break discs were looking rusty. It seems that the car needed more breaking power
and when breaking the car turns to the right (?). I opened the front saddles, removed the pads and pushed the pistons in and they went in easily. Also the pins were moving
easily. When re-tested the vehicle still needs extra breaking power and i can feel that the breaks need more power than before.

I think I need to open the rear breaks but i have not done that before and the vehicle has electric handbrake. Is there something i need to consider when removing the saddles ?

I have seen some discussions on the matter but i would rather have somebody to give a helping hand than trying to find some old topics.... Victor... Ed.. pls
 

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Hi,

My Captiva has been resting since the beginning of April. Today i took it back to service as my break discs were looking rusty. It seems that the car needed more breaking power
and when breaking the car turns to the right (?). I opened the front saddles, removed the pads and pushed the pistons in and they went in easily. Also the pins were moving
easily. When re-tested the vehicle still needs extra breaking power and i can feel that the breaks need more power than before.

I think I need to open the rear breaks but i have not done that before and the vehicle has electric handbrake. Is there something i need to consider when removing the saddles ?

I have seen some discussions on the matter but i would rather have somebody to give a helping hand than trying to find some old topics.... Victor... Ed.. pls
Hi, most electric rear brakes are wound back by plugging in a scanner and using the brake service program. Some can be wound back manually but you have to remove the motor and it`s quite involved. You definitely can`t push them back by hand so if you haven`t got access to diagnostics it`ll be a trip to the garage I`m afraid. Hope this helps. Howard.
 

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You don't need to disturb the handbrake mechanism if you just want to work on the disc calipers. Just jack the vehicle up, secure it and you can remove the pads and the caliper. You can take off the carrier too if you like because it has the guides that the pads sit in and they get corroded and gunged up. I like to take mine off, put them in the vice and clean them up with a wire brush when I've got the rest of it down anyway.

If the brakes are pulling to the one side it's most likely to be caused by the front brakes. You say that the pistons are moving freely as are the slide pins but did you look closely at the surface of the pads? There's a slot in the pad friction material to collect dust / debris and ithis can get filled up. If the discs have become rusted with not being used, when you start to use them again these slots can fill up very rapidly and you won't get the same cleaning action on the disc surfaces.

You will, of course, need to bleed the entire system..

BREAK: To break something as in You can't make an omelette without BREAKING eggs.

BRAKE: A device or system used to slow down and stop as in He slammed on the BRAKES
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I thought the same that the calipers can be removed as you said. Front pads are almost new but off course there were rust and debris on pads and discs and now after several braking the breaks are better. I will remove the rear calipers and pads tomorrow and clean them / push the pistons in and maybe some copper paste on the pad ends. Do I need to turn the pistons in or can i just push them in ?
 

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Just push the piston in, you don't need to turn it. I use a G clamp to press the piston in and get someone to sit in the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal to push the piston back out then I push it back in again. Do that several times and it makes sure the pistons are really free. In normal use they only move a fraction at a time and they can get quite sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, I got it. Rear calipers have no connection to electric handbrake which operates by separate brake drums / shoes. I will remove the calipers and pads and check the pins movements. The brakes are working better now but it seems that long time outside resting will finally destroy the discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Brakes are fixed now. Did the rear ones this morning (am 06.45-07.45 h.). Removed the calipers and pads. Calipers were moving in and out smoothly. I have a tool for pressing the pistons in ( for VAG products but modified for my old cars.) However, the pads were stacked and the slots on pads were full of debris. Cleaned the slots and pad ends and added them some copper pasta.
It is just that last autumn i paid for servicing the brake calipers and pins and also for new front pads ( € 372). It all started for brake fluid change which did not go normally as the pleed plugs were stacked and needed heating to get them opened. I would say that the rear pads were not removed from their positions during the service.
Now the brakes are fixed and all they need is a test drive.
Cheers and thanks for giving a helping hand. It is really appreciated.
 
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