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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Using a small DIY frame to separate Matiz hubs. Cost around £5.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Base is scrap plate 10mm thick. Studs are M10. As the knuckles are handed there is an extra set of holes for other side - the plate can be turned over to achieve same result. The jack is 2 tonne capacity but has arthritis and not used for vehicle lifts. Having said that it can still free hubs with a satisfying Crack!
 

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love that sound, fingers crossed a similar setup will do the job for me.

Can you use this to push the hub and knuckle assembly back together once the disc has been changed? I'm guessing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not easily. A piece of studding can be used with 2 nuts [M20 comes to mind]. A washer and nut is ideal for the hub flange side and a large socket for the inner bearing side. If large sockets are not to hand then British Standard scaffold tube of 48 mm OD and 44 mm ID will do [A small length of tube about 100 mm]. A drilled plate on top of the tube will be needed to provide reaction for the pulling process. Once again Good Luck!
 

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you should fab these up and sell them as a hub seperator stand* its a brilliant idea.


*(jack not included)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
08matiz said:
you should fab these up and sell them as a hub seperator stand* its a brilliant idea.


*(jack not included)

08matiz thanks for your comments.

Regards dave
 

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Not easily. A piece of studding can be used with 2 nuts [M20 comes to mind]. A washer and nut is ideal for the hub flange side and a large socket for the inner bearing side. If large sockets are not to hand then British Standard scaffold tube of 48 mm OD and 44 mm ID will do [A small length of tube about 100 mm]. A drilled plate on top of the tube will be needed to provide reaction for the pulling process. Once again Good Luck!
HI Jasta, have you got a sketch/image of your 10mm plate 'cracker' handy ? The Russian YouTube videos suggest doing this with a scissor jack. But no crack ! Thanks, Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Matiz24a/Ian. At the moment the frame is not to hand for measurements. When it was put together the positions for the studding holes in the base plate was sorted using the Matiz steering knuckle for the pattern. This method will be sufficiently accurate. The height and flexibility of the M10 studs will take care of any inaccuracy. The head of a short M20 bolt was used between the jack and the hub spigot. Good Luck.
 

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Hi Matiz24a/Ian. At the moment the frame is not to hand for measurements. When it was put together the positions for the studding holes in the base plate was sorted using the Matiz steering knuckle for the pattern. This method will be sufficiently accurate. The height and flexibility of the M10 studs will take care of any inaccuracy. The head of a short M20 bolt was used between the jack and the hub spigot. Good Luck.
OK, thanks, I'll give it a go ...............
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Magic, thanks Jasta, couldn't figure out how you had done it ! Very elegant ............. for not a lot of money/effort.
Ian I did not realise that images have been deleted from these old posts. I hope that the construction of the frame is now clearer. If any problems arise let me know and I will do my best to assist.
 

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Ian I did not realise that images have been deleted from these old posts.
Yes Jasta, This is a pity because there were many helpful photos in the old posts.
This corruption of formatting occurred about three years or more ago when the Forum was 'revamped'. Old photo data is now just a series of Formatting hieroglyphics.
Well done you for finding the old photos and reposting them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Matiz24a. Just found another image of something that may be of use in connection with Matiz disc replacement.
hub tool.JPG
 

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Hi Matiz24a. Just found another image of something that may be of use in connection with Matiz disc replacement. View attachment 1883
Thanks, Jasta, very nice !

Didn't get an MOT pass as the fuel filter was rusted out. Some things are not exactly clear from the (excellent) Russian hub videos on YouTube ….

The metal covered seal has to be pressed into place when the hub is put back together. It may not ‘locate’ itself fully when the bearings are pressed in with the M20/Scaffold tube rig. I managed to get the seal in on one side, but tip and kink it on the other side in a section where there was no access - and the seal would not turn to get access.

If you take a hacksaw and gently relieve the kink(s) by ‘sawing’ into the gap you should then be able to persuade the seal to rotate into a place where there is more access. Then dink the kink(s) with a chisel so that the seal edge can re-locate again. As the other side of the seal is (probably) fully located you can now press (force) this side in without any further damage.

Better than taking it apart. Best would be to make sure the seal is properly located before the bearing is fully pressed tight and while you still have some room to see what you are doing ……. and easier than learning Russian .............
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Ian. From what you have mentioned regarding the MOT test it seems the discs have not caused any upset and are thicker than 10 mm. Is this the case? I will dig out some knuckle parts and the bits I used for reassembly and provide some images. I feel it is essential the the inner and outer oil seals are renewed during the rebuild.
The issue of the fuel filter is in my mind a bigger upset and more than likely requires fuel tank removal to replace pipework. Have a look in the Aveo forum for info.
If you are proceeding with a fuel filter pipework renewal begin a new topic as it makes it easier for everyone.
I will get back on the disc matter ASAP.
 

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Hi Ian. From what you have mentioned regarding the MOT test it seems the discs have not caused any upset and are thicker than 10 mm. Is this the case? I will dig out some knuckle parts and the bits I used for reassembly and provide some images. I feel it is essential the the inner and outer oil seals are renewed during the rebuild.
The issue of the fuel filter is in my mind a bigger upset and more than likely requires fuel tank removal to replace pipework. Have a look in the Aveo forum for info.
If you are proceeding with a fuel filter pipework renewal begin a new topic as it makes it easier for everyone.
I will get back on the disc matter ASAP.
Hi Jasta, I was brought up on drum brakes without a servo so I use engine braking most of the time. On a Matiz this basically means that you hardly use the foot brake. I also live in Cornwall where salt corrosion is not unknown. The result is as below - the pads scrub less and less of the disc :

1884


which shows up on the brake tester. In the old days you would skim, but now new is cheaper and that includes the full bearing kit, seals etc. Mad !

I was looking for the Fuel Filter under the bonnet. Then found it next to the fuel tank, as you say, and it looks a lot sadder than the discs ....., Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Jasta, I was brought up on drum brakes without a servo so I use engine braking most of the time. On a Matiz this basically means that you hardly use the foot brake. I also live in Cornwall where salt corrosion is not unknown. The result is as below - the pads scrub less and less of the disc :

View attachment 1884

which shows up on the brake tester. In the old days you would skim, but now new is cheaper and that includes the full bearing kit, seals etc. Mad !

I was looking for the Fuel Filter under the bonnet. Then found it next to the fuel tank, as you say, and it looks a lot sadder than the discs ....., Ian
Ian it looks like you have sorted the matter of disc replacement. Is this the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ian the image of the rusty discs looks like you have sorted this matter. Is this the case?
 
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