HI Jasta, have you got a sketch/image of your 10mm plate 'cracker' handy ? The Russian YouTube videos suggest doing this with a scissor jack. But no crack ! Thanks, IanNot easily. A piece of studding can be used with 2 nuts [M20 comes to mind]. A washer and nut is ideal for the hub flange side and a large socket for the inner bearing side. If large sockets are not to hand then British Standard scaffold tube of 48 mm OD and 44 mm ID will do [A small length of tube about 100 mm]. A drilled plate on top of the tube will be needed to provide reaction for the pulling process. Once again Good Luck!
OK, thanks, I'll give it a go ...............Hi Matiz24a/Ian. At the moment the frame is not to hand for measurements. When it was put together the positions for the studding holes in the base plate was sorted using the Matiz steering knuckle for the pattern. This method will be sufficiently accurate. The height and flexibility of the M10 studs will take care of any inaccuracy. The head of a short M20 bolt was used between the jack and the hub spigot. Good Luck.
Ian I did not realise that images have been deleted from these old posts. I hope that the construction of the frame is now clearer. If any problems arise let me know and I will do my best to assist.Magic, thanks Jasta, couldn't figure out how you had done it ! Very elegant ............. for not a lot of money/effort.
Yes Jasta, This is a pity because there were many helpful photos in the old posts.Ian I did not realise that images have been deleted from these old posts.
Thanks, Jasta, very nice !
Hi Jasta, I was brought up on drum brakes without a servo so I use engine braking most of the time. On a Matiz this basically means that you hardly use the foot brake. I also live in Cornwall where salt corrosion is not unknown. The result is as below - the pads scrub less and less of the disc :Hi Ian. From what you have mentioned regarding the MOT test it seems the discs have not caused any upset and are thicker than 10 mm. Is this the case? I will dig out some knuckle parts and the bits I used for reassembly and provide some images. I feel it is essential the the inner and outer oil seals are renewed during the rebuild.
The issue of the fuel filter is in my mind a bigger upset and more than likely requires fuel tank removal to replace pipework. Have a look in the Aveo forum for info.
If you are proceeding with a fuel filter pipework renewal begin a new topic as it makes it easier for everyone.
I will get back on the disc matter ASAP.
Hi Jasta, I was brought up on drum brakes without a servo so I use engine braking most of the time. On a Matiz this basically means that you hardly use the foot brake. I also live in Cornwall where salt corrosion is not unknown. The result is as below - the pads scrub less and less of the disc :
View attachment 1884
which shows up on the brake tester. In the old days you would skim, but now new is cheaper and that includes the full bearing kit, seals etc. Mad !
I was looking for the Fuel Filter under the bonnet. Then found it next to the fuel tank, as you say, and it looks a lot sadder than the discs ....., Ian
Ian it looks like you have sorted the matter of disc replacement. Is this the case?