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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all my captiva accelerates very slow when it is set to "D" or "D4". But once it crosses 30km/h with the slow acceleration the pickup is normal. However when set to "D2" the acceleration is fine. I have done an OBD check and it shoots up the code "P0722 - Output speed sensor no signal." Changed the Output speed sensor and reset the codes but that didn't sort the problem. After driving for sometime with the new sensor the code "P0722" comes back. I have taken it to repair shops and they say they need to replace the transmission. Just wanted to confirm if I should go ahead with replacing the transmission or is there something else that needs to be inspected. Maybe the new output speed sensor is faulty or cables that go to it. Shouldn't be that I replace the transmission and all it turns out to be an issue with a sensor. What doesn't make sense is to me is that it accelerates normally on "D2" but not on "D" or "D4". If someone could point me to the right direction to what can I do to fix this issue.Thanks
 

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Which year / series / variant ? Now out of Warranty ??
 

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Okay, Series 1 petrol auto. It is possible the new sensor could be defective (was it a good brand?).I've purchased new bulbs for example that were defective new out of the box. Or as you say the wiring or a corroded connector could be culprit.
Have you owned for long? What sort of mileage and is the service history up to date. Has it ever had the Automatic Transfer Fluid changed?
I'm no autobox expert but the gearbox is solenoid operated. Could be sticking solenoid. It might simply need the fluid flushed and replaced. There is I believe a mesh filter as well.
Burnt / dirty fluid could be the culprit. Worth trying that first as it is cheaper than new transmission.
At the age of the vehicle new transmission would probably cost more than the vehicle is worth!

Note that there is a proper sequence to flushing / replacing ATF. (There was a post by forum member BEL about 3 years ago on this subject so a look through the search tab may be useful).

Assume you have done the usual basics of checking air flow, air filter, splits in air hose etc.

If you put vehicle details into your 'footer' (signature box on sign up page) they will automatically appear under your future posts. This will assist members in their replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Aussie ED. Thanks for replying. I purchased it from chevrolet parts dealer and was out of box. The car was owned from the start and mileage around 167,500 km. I never changed the fluid in the past, I just did it the other day when it showed signs of slow acceleration. Its just that this problem started when it had a leaky water hose replaced that came out of the water pump. After the replacement the car wouldn't move. Probably the mechanic must have loosened some connectors and few other connections because he had to remove the pump to fix the hose. Then goes the story of the mechanic "All I changed was the hose which should not have caused the problem." So I just doubt if its actually a transmission failure. I found an auto electrician who was ready to help me for less than 1/4 of the cost of having transmission replaced. He said he would check all wires and sensors and make sure they are not the cause of the problem. And would let me know by Monday.

Thanks for the advise. I'll let you know how it went once I have the car back.
 

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Oh dear; how often have we heard or experienced the 'it was going okay until it went in for a service' syndrome. Certainly gives the impression that something was dislodged or setting lost while doing the water pump work.Let us know how you get on.

ps: where are you in UAE, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah etc. Dubai has changed a bit since I lived there 1970's !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Aussie Ed, just an update. The electrican couldn't resolve it, and after that I had taken to few other mechanics, explained the situation. And all had one solution, a faulty transmission and to have it replaced. Though I'm not convinced and neither could any of the mechanics could explain how is it possible when selecting D2, the car is able to shift the upto the first two gears. But when selecting D or D4 it skips the first two gears and goes straight to third so theres no pickup.

Replacing may cost almost as the value of the car, but I'm out of options and just have to let the mechanics do their thing.

By the way I'm in Sharjah. I assume you haven't visited or passed by Dubai since the 70's :) . The change is not just a bit... its a lot. And it seems like they are still not satisfied.
 

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justin.alex said:
Replacing may cost almost as the value of the car, but I'm out of options and just have to let the mechanics do their thing.
That's a shame. Hope the necessary work is kept within sensible price limits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just came by testing the car, no luck, the mechanic said it could be an internal gear fault so suggested would be best to repair it without having to for a new transmission. After he had it repaired, no difference, the same. The car starts, moves normal for a minute or two and then slips.

Next he suggested about having the gear replaced probably would be cheaper to buy a refurbished gearbox with all sensors and valve body and a 10 day refund policy. Had this transmission installed. But no difference. Same issue. :( .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Aussie Ed,

Finally got the car from back from a mechanic who seemed to know what he was doing. Turned out that it was a faulty gear controller located under the instrument panel behind steering. Part number96625112. He replaced and programmed it and all good :).
 

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justin.alex said:
Hi Aussie Ed,

Finally got the car from back from a mechanic who seemed to know what he was doing. Turned out that it was a faulty gear controller located under the instrument panel behind steering. Part number96625112. He replaced and programmed it and all good :).


Fantastic news. Proves the point about finding someone clued up enough. Saved the cost of a new gearbox which would have been unnecessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, had the gearbox replaced. it was all unnecessary. As it was the mechanics fault of not being able to fix the problem, we negotiated and I paid only half of what was quoted.
The mechanic who fixed the gear controller charged me around $150 for labor, and advised me to find a used controller as it was not worth buying a new one in case of defective wires. I was able to find a used controller for $200. All in all it was just an expense of $350.
 

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I wonder how he finally came to the conclusion that it was the controller, usually controller is checked / replaced before transmission.
Did any fault codes show up after replacement of the transmission?
Did the used controller require to be programmed to the car, or was it just mater of mounting it.

These questions would rally help us do it our selves mechanics, im sure we will see more of this transmission issue.

Thanks for sharing the solution.

Edited by: A-Man
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No Idea A-Man, why none of them considered it to be a bad controller. Took it to almost 20 repair shops, and all of them said its a bad transmission because they said they captiva's usually have transmission issues and they have them repaired. And believe me, I had seen two captiva's lifted on jacks in two separate repair shops having transmission repaired. So I had to agree and have mine replaced, though not convinced.I had the error code P0722 - output speed sensor no signal & P0700 - Transmission system malfunction. Before the transmission was replaced.Even after the transmission was replaced, had the same error codes and the same problem.
After the controller was plugged in, I really can't say if it required programming. Because the car seemed to function fine. However the mechanic said it requires programming.
On another note, the guy who sold me the controller told me on a captiva the controller and the fuse box under the hood gets bad usually or end up malfunctioning, and people end up spending a lot till they realize its just these little components need to be replaced.
 

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Bad fuse box?
Must be corrosion, that can generate all kinds of fault codes.
Good point im going to check mine.
 

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Hi, I know it's been years since the issue was resolved, just want to share what I did with a bad tcm module,, well been having the same issue with my 08 Captiva vcdi on D and not for long the gear will jump to 2 and 4 only and 4 finally and car wont move, what I did, and still using it now until I find the right tcm module, took the tcm fuse off the engine bay fuse box and wired in placement of fuse and carefully run the wire inside and mount the micro sw in one of the air vents by the drivers side, and every time it acts up I push the sw to momentary open the circuit and reset the tcm, and gear backs down to 1st and so on, I am currently in the Philippines and parts are not cheap here. Hope this helps.
 

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A rather unusual and unique 'work around' but useful to know if all else fails to resolve the issue.
 
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