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2011 CHEVROLET ORLANDO LTZ J309 [MOTOR: F18D4]; 5-Speed Manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all.

2011 Orlando 1.8 petrol LTZ, 118k miles.

Recently I've had the most bizarre problem spring up and of the electrical kind which are my least favourite. That aside, here are the symptoms:

-Rear parking, fog and brake lights (on the tailgate & body) do not work (3rd / High mount brake light works, reverse, indicators work)

-Rear tailgate release (above license plate) doesn't work.

-Rear wiper fluid motor and wiper do not work

-Central locking from the inside/dash does not work once the car is started. It works if the car is off or in position 1. It does not unlock the rear tailgate in any circumstance.

-Front windshield washer motor doesn't work. Wipers do.

-Backlight for the headlight switch, AC controls and central locking switch intermittently work.

For the most part the car works and behaves normally. There are no warnings. When turning on the rear fog light the indicator light on the dash lights up as if it should be on but it doesn't actually come on. Just prior to this issue springing up I took it into get the front exhaust section/flex pipe replaced. That was done successfully.

What I've done so far:

-Phoned the garage to ask if they'd disconnected the battery or any earth straps. They said no, just the O2 sensor which was subsequently reinstalled.

-Checked battery voltage while running (14.3) and after switching off (13.1). Battery is not new to me. I've had the car 2.5 years. It's an Exide 60ah, 540CCA battery which is decent and I'd replace with an Exide if I had to. I'm conscious its starting to get cold and this is high time but I've never seen these types of issues with a dying battery. The negative terminal don't appear to have been touched by the service techs (dusty, no fingerprints or grease).

-Replaced all BCM fuses as well as most of the ones tied to some of the functionality that isn't working. None appeared to be broken.

-Read and read and read and the most likely thing seems to be earth somewhere but I can't find the locations of all the earthing points. I haven't had a chance yet to trace back from the negative terminal. Pic of mine attached.


Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Engineering Auto part

Help! Any ideas welcomed excluding the use of a flame thrower. :)
 

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2011 CHEVROLET ORLANDO LTZ J309 [MOTOR: F18D4]; 5-Speed Manual
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So in hunting down bad earth leads I started at the battery naturally. With the old leads on and the car started, I did a voltage drop test from the terminal to the connector on the cable at the terminal and for the negative cable, the earth point on the body all between 0.00 - 0.02. I replaced the cable anyway with no change in the condition. Tested all the fuses once again and all check out OK. Taking it to a garage tomorrow where the chap is regarded for his electrical troubleshooting skills so here's hoping.



Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Bicycle part Screw
 

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Two obscure issues can be poor 'crimping' on the cable to terminal end.
Some makes/vehicles experience poor or hidden corrosion to the earth under the fuse holders. This often needs the earth box in the engine bay to be totally removed, cleaned underneath and the securing bolts/washers wire brushed. Clutching at straws here.
 
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2011 CHEVROLET ORLANDO LTZ J309 [MOTOR: F18D4]; 5-Speed Manual
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Two obscure issues can be poor 'crimping' on the cable to terminal end.
Some makes/vehicles experience poor or hidden corrosion to the earth under the fuse holders. This often needs the earth box in the engine bay to be totally removed, cleaned underneath and the securing bolts/washers wire brushed. Clutching at straws here.
Thanks Ed. Appreciate the tip. I'm taking it in to the garage tomorrow for diagnostics by someone that comes recommended by an RAC chap for electrical faults.
 

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2011 CHEVROLET ORLANDO LTZ J309 [MOTOR: F18D4]; 5-Speed Manual
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The chap came back and said he's 90% certain it's the BCM. He's given me some numbers of places to call to see if I can send it off for repair.

He said he can see there's loads of faults logged and he can clear them successfully but the second he adds a load like lights, all the faults trip again.
 

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2011 CHEVROLET ORLANDO LTZ J309 [MOTOR: F18D4]; 5-Speed Manual
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As a follow up, I sent the BCM off for repair. I was sent a reconditioned and reprogrammed (cloned) one and all previous issues were resolved after plugging it back in.

www.ecu-express.co.uk

Highly recommended. It was all very efficient and cost me £160.

The irony of the whole thing is my MOT was up and I took it in and it failed on excessive handbrake movement and the caliper has to be replaced but they can't find the right part! So I'm still car-less.
 

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Good very helpful info. ECU Express would be useful info on the Captiva Forum.

In respect of the calliper part bear in mind that the Orlando was based around the Cruze and Zafira.
Quote fro Wikipedia says " Chevrolet Cruze and the third-generation Opel Zafira " If you change your search criteria you might find the part required. Good Luck.
 
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