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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a Chevvy Spark 2011 (UK)
I've noticed the central locking has a bit of problem, from locked the key fob will only unlock the passenger doors, the driver door and boot remain locked.
There is a healthy sounding 'Clunk' when the button is pressed on the key fob, and the driver door pull tab looks to 'quiver' but doesn't move up or down.
The only way to lock all the doors and open them is to put the key on in the driver door and physically turn the key in the lock.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Andy, Sounds as if something could possibly be 'binding'.
However it could be that the door locks have become 'out of synchronization'. Have you read the recommendations on Keys & Doors in your Owners Handbook? Somewhere about pages 17 to 20.
Also make sure the battery in the key fob is new and not losing charge,

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Andy, Sounds as if something could possibly be 'binding'.
However it could be that the door locks have become 'out of synchronization'. Have you read the recommendations on Keys & Doors in your Owners Handbook? Somewhere about pages 17 to 20.
Also make sure the battery in the key fob is new and not losing charge,

As a new member the following link will offer Helpful Guidance on finding your way around the Forum and how to complete your full location and vehicle details in your Signature/footer.

Well after investigation, I was sure the problem was in the door lock block(with the long rods attached)
I sourced a recon lock block, but after installing this hasn't solved the problem :(
To sum up, the driver door will not open via central locking, the other 3 doors try to open/quiver but the driver door just remains still. I have to place the key in the door to activate all the locks on all the 4 doors.
I'm leaning towards the central locking relay now? but where is this located?
Checked fusebox but all seems in order there.
 

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Andy, You dont say whether or not you have checked the synchronization or battery in key fob etc. What did you include in your 'investigation' ?
I'm going to suggest again that you follow through on checking the key fob battery and run the re-synchronization sequence. If you have then please confirm you have as well as clarify what was included in your 'investigation'.
Unless you tell us what your investigations have included and confirm whether or not you try the suggestions offered by Forum members then I think you are going to be solving this one yourself. .

The suggestions in the Guidance Tips link in my previous post do not appear to have been read or actioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Andy, You dont say whether or not you have checked the synchronization or battery in key fob etc. What did you include in your 'investigation' ?
I'm going to suggest again that you follow through on checking the key fob battery and run the re-synchronization sequence. If you have then please confirm you have as well as clarify what was included in your 'investigation'.
Unless you tell us what your investigations have included and confirm whether or not you try the suggestions offered by Forum members then I think you are going to be solving this one yourself. .

The suggestions in the Guidance Tips link in my previous post do not appear to have been read or actioned.
Woah, Ed, slow down. My 'investigation' has so far resulted in me stripping the door down, replacing the door lock block, which included making sure all the rods were correctly positioned and working as they should. Then checking the fuse box. Also removed the glove box to try and spot the central locking relay(which hardly anyone knows the whereabouts of)
And yes I have read the handbook, which mentions nothing of the re-synchronization sequence as far I can see, maybe helpful to point me at least in the right direction?
As for the battery, there is a worldwide crisis at the moment, i will try to source one when maybe life gets back to near normal speaking as an NHS keyworker on the frontline.
Many thanks for your suggestions.
 

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Andy, What I was endeavouring to do was establish what exactly you had investigated and why.
Several years on this and other forums has highlighted vehicle owners often rush off in a direction they need not have gone in when the actual cause and solution was actually so basic and simple.

Here you are informing us that you have stripped the door down, checked rods, removed glove box etc when the cause may well be simply a new battery in the key fob and re-synchronization which from your reply you havent done. There is chance you are making this task harder than it needs to be.
What I was trying t do (in NHS terminology) was avoid you giving your patient with a broken leg an unnecessary heart transplant.
I dont think I can add anymore. Maybe a Forum Spark owner can contribute.

Well done in your NHS role ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Andy, What I was endeavouring to do was establish what exactly you had investigated and why.
Several years on this and other forums has highlighted vehicle owners often rush off in a direction they need not have gone in when the actual cause and solution was actually so basic and simple.

Here you are informing us that you have stripped the door down, checked rods, removed glove box etc when the cause may well be simply a new battery in the key fob and re-synchronization which from your reply you havent done. There is chance you are making this task harder than it needs to be.
What I was trying t do (in NHS terminology) was avoid you giving your patient with a broken leg an unnecessary heart transplant.
I dont think I can add anymore. Maybe a Forum Spark owner can contribute.

Well done in your NHS role ?
A new fob battery hasn't made a difference.
I would suggest trying re-synchronization of the central locking system but, sadly I cannot find out how to do that despite asking on here and trawling the internet.
1 thing I have found out is the boot lock cylinder is either seized or broken as the key won't go fully in, the only way to open the boot is via the manual pull cable at the side of the driver door, which makes me wonder if this could affect the central locking system?
Regards & Thank you.
 

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Andy, You may well have now found the culprit in the apparently defective boot lock. As you suspect (and I'm inclined to agree) that the effect of the boot not electronically fully releasing will compromise the electronic 'open or close' code signal and as a result some locks are saying 'I'm open but I'm not sure the others are' and hence the electronic confusion. Possibly you are on a solution now. Well done.
 

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The information provided concerning your Spark and particularly the manual tailgate release by the driver's seat indicates that all matters concerning opening and locking of the tailgate are mechanical and are not managed by keyless entry or central locking systems. I believe the tailgate mechanism is described as "type 2" which means unlocking is made by the interior release lever or the lock barrel in the tailgate. Locking is automatic when is pushed down into the mechanism in the tailgate cill.
Perhaps some lubrication into the tailgate lock barrel will sort the key issue you mention.
 

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Jasta ... good point "Locking is automatic when is pushed down into the mechanism in the tailgate cill".
Not having owned a Spark I wasnt fully aware of the locking management. On my Captiva I could shut the tailgate down but it would still be unlocked until I electronically locked it.
.
 

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Hi Ed. It looks like the Spark had 3 methods of tailgate operation. Type 1 - key operation using tailgate key barrel, Type 2 - as already mentioned, Type 3 - controlled by keyless entry, no operating lever in vehicle but key barrel in tailgate just in case. The tailgate also has a lever under closure handhold to release tailgate when central locking is not engaged.
 

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Hi, I am having issues with my spark central locking (Central Locking Fault). Basically, when using the keyfob (on both main & spare key), the doors lock then immediately unlock. Currently my investigation has found the following:-

  • Boot, Rear Doors (x2) & Front doors (x2) when opened & closed cause the interior light to illuminate & dashboard icon to appear (no sound / chime)
  • Bonnet switch does not appear to do anything with interior light / dashboard illumination. Switch tested with multimeter & working fine.
  • Keyfob battery (2.97v) replaced with new battery (3.27v), no difference.
  • Car main battery 12.27v. connected a running ford Kuga diesel car battery (via jump leads), voltage @ 15.1v, no difference.
  • Disconnected the main car battery then reconnected...... Central locking working fine. Turn car ignition on then off & Central locking fault returns..... Repeated test with same outcome.

I have no idea where to find where all the door switch cables land (i.e. control module) so I can check circuitry there..... can anyone shed any light on this?

Any thoughts off anyone?

Thanks
Ricki
 

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I'm starting to think that your solution is to take the vehicle to an Auto electrician.
 

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I'm starting to think that your solution is to take the vehicle to an Auto electrician.
Im taking it tomorrow for someone to plug a diagnostic unit in to see any fault codes that may pinpoint the fault.

The user manual (as well as other replies on this forum) mentions resynchronising but no detail is given on how to carry out this task (either in the manual or online). Can anyone advise on this process?

Thanks
Ricki
 
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