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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So ive started to get a vibration noise from the rear when accelerating. Doesn't happen under cruise control. Reading on the forum it is likely the propshaft carrier bearing. Had a look this evening no obvious signs of wear but it's seen between days. 97600 on the clock. Long an easier which job to do.

Any other ideas for rear vibration under load?
 

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Rule these out first.
Check rear wheel bearings and also that wheel(s) are centering on the boss correctly.Wheel balance check.
Tyre damage check (internally if not visible externally).
Body /wheel Alignment check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked all the items on the list. No movement in bearings. No loss of weights on wheels. No obvious play in anything except the box. When moving the prop there is no obvious play in u joint or rubbers. I found a site for transmission noises.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/03/30/quick-guide-to-diagnosing-differential-driveline-noises/
Following the guide to me it's
Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every two to three feet during acceleration.
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on pinion gear tooth

Drive from cold for 10 minutes then banging noise from rear sounds like driveshafts/rear transmission. Seems to be coming from nearside. Starts banging from starting off pounced warned up.

However, when I accelerate using cruise control no noise at all. So the transmission must be fine, because any mechanical issues with the pinion would show up whether under manual or cruise.

Opinions?


Edited by: Pegasusturbo
 

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Try acceleration very slowly in the correct gear, ie not labouring or over revving and see if the notice is still there. Whether your foot or cruise is accelerating the components working are still the same.

A worn or damaged part, especially a CV joint will only clunk when the drive is erratic and not constant.
 

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I quite agree with what Spyder says but I'd also add that I don't think it's anything to do with a high spot or chip on one of the teeth on the rear axle pinion. The Captiva doesn't have full time rear wheel drive, it's an "On-Demand" system. The transfer box is permanaently engaged and the rear propshaft turns all the time but it's only when the electronic clutch on the diff pinion is activated - by the traction control / vehicle electronic stability control system - that you get rear wheel drive

At your mileage I wouldn't be surprised if it was the centre bearing on the propshaft, they're very hard to diagnose on the vehicle because they're supported in a rubber housing. Once you get them off and dismantle them the wear becomes more apparent. I wouldn't be surprised if the UJ's on the proshaft were worn too, especially if this vehicle has been used for towing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I must admit I'm not convinced it's the diff, but the carrier seems ok. I've got one here. So I think I'm going to strip the prop tomorrow and have a closer look. Swapping the carrier looks easy enough.
 

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Mark both sides and assemble it in the same position that it came off, front and rear couplings that is.
 

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Thanks for answering with a positive result.

Was it in any way difficult to change?

Could you see the wear before and after removal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh dear spoke to soon. Still grumbling. The chassis was buckled under the carrier which suggests it has been hit. Leveled up the carrier to two steel plates. Drive it round the block no issues. Just drove it further and clonking banging under acceleration is still there. Disappointed. Looking the the Chevy manuals in going to check rear diff fluid levels. Might get the car of the ground and run it to see any obvious Problems.
 

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Anyone tried running it with the propshaft removed, in order to troubleshoot?

Obviously with a myriad of light blinking.
 

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Did you check if the UJ were still okay. a dry roller bearing can make a terrible noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So i wipped the propshaft off and took for a drive. all is fine. There is vibration in the steering wheel but that is caused by missing weights from wheels which is to be sorted next.


Had another check and there is play in a UJ. So are they replaceable?
 

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See my response to your other post about balance weights. If your propshaft has staked joints you can't change them yourself. If they're the type with circlips then yes, you can. There's probably videos on Youtube to show you how.
 

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So i wipped the propshaft off and took for a drive. all is fine. There is vibration in the steering wheel but that is caused by missing weights from wheels which is to be sorted next.


Had another check and there is play in a UJ. So are they replaceable?
So i wipped the propshaft off and took for a drive. all is fine. There is vibration in the steering wheel but that is caused by missing weights from wheels which is to be sorted next.


Had another check and there is play in a UJ. So are they r
 

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Hi . i got captiva with same problem.. Did u ever able to fix that issue.. If yes pls let me know how.. Thanks..
 

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Doubt if you'll hear anything from Pegasusturbo, he started this thread in April 2018, we're now in April 2021.

By the way, welcome to the board, Daku00.
 

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Doubt if you'll hear anything from Pegasusturbo, he started this thread in April 2018, we're now in April 2021.

By the way, welcome to the board, Daku00.
Victor & Daku,
Pegasus was posting until six months ago but the auto-fill member name function no longer auto-fills under that name, so he may possibly have left the Forum.

Daku, As new member the following link has helpful info for you in completing your Sign-Up World location which you left 'blank' (the Forum system believes Australia?) and vehicle data can be added to either the lefthand Data pane or the Signature Footer. Lots of helpful tips in the following link:-

Helpful Guidance Using the Forum
 
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