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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.
I am changing front wheel bearing next week. does anyone know what torque for the nut that holds it on? Thanks
 

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Sorry Ed that only applies to taper bearings, the parallel bearings on the captiva and on most lighter vehicles now have no adjustment for wear and just pull up on a fixed spacer the torque is just to keep them firm and in place.I do not know if the captiva bearings are roller or ball but if they are ball races that can explain the short life span versus lower cost and no maintenance.Edited by: bel
 

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Hi Bel, Even more good info from you Bel. Well done
 

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Can also find previous posts using search 'Wheel bearing!' by Tnarg dated 6 Nov 2011. Might be useful.
 

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Captivadad said:
Thanks for the info. will let you know how i get on. cheers
Hope it goes OK just a couple of things, where the three fixing bolts screw end pokes through the hub facing you give them a wire brush and apply penetrating oil, also use a good six point 13mm socket so not to round the heads they can be hellish tight. Make sure the hub goes back flush to the splash guard before screwing in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did the wheel bearing/hub earlier today. All went well. a few things to be aware of. The bolts are on good and proper. you need the following size sockets. 15, 18 and i think it was a 36. Try and use at least half inch drive. The hub removal was the hardest part. Used a large copper headed mallet for that but it did eventually come off. Thanks for all the advice on previous posts also. would not have attempted it without the info. Saved a few quid also so good news all around. cheers.
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread, im half way through a hub change on a 2009 captiva lt, all went well until removing the hub from the carrier. Ive been hitting it for 4 hours, tried heat, plusgas, brute force and an air chisel. Ended up taking the whole carrier off, applying more heat whilst in a bench vice and going mental, eventually come out. I can confirm that that the bearings are spherical.!!! Now, tomorrow ive got to put ot back together, does anyone know it if the hub needs to be pressed in or should it just slot in when offered up. The force required to remove it is making me wonder. Thanks in advance f
 

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To answer my own question, yes, the new hub just slots into the carrier without issue, no pressing needed, which leads me to believe that the old one was well and truly knackered and the heat generated had fused the hub to the carrier.
 

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Just doing my front bearings at moment, can't get hub off, do you have to remove the whole assembly to suspension unit or should the hub just knock off?
Cheers for any help

Iverblacken.
 

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Just doing my front bearings at moment, can't get hub off, do you have to remove the whole assembly to suspension unit or should the hub just knock off?
Cheers for any help

Iverblacken.
I know this thread is 6 years old, but as relevant. I changed the front OS wheel bearing to soret out an intermittent ABS/everyotherlightonthe dash issue. I can confirm that the bolts are tight and rusted, 6 years down the line, even more so than the ones above.
Do not even try it in place, I removed the hub from the car and used a 12T press at full pressure for an hour, before it popped out with a horrendous thud. I sprayed all the components after cleaning them and filled the ball joins with silicon grease while there.
The new bearing slipped into the cleaned aperture with no issue.
Torques setting found above, so onwards and upwards.
 
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